66 SWB handling/steering questions

[AnobleL74]

will try to keep this concise and clear .
66 c10 with 73 c10 front suspension and power steering and power disc brakes, rear drums on a 1973 3:31 12 bolt. all suspension and steering have been recently rebuilt stock, except it has Early Performance KY shocks and 3 " rear and 2" front lowering springs. does not have a sway bar on front or rear.

she drive straight and smooth down the highway and rides nice, I just drove it form FLA to San Diego and cruised 80 nicely,.

issue1. the steering is hyper sensitive, at speed if you move the wheel abruptly it will dart off to the weeds. soft touch on the wheel and she steers great. any ideas how to calm down the steering response, it is ok for me as I am used to it, but nervous for some one else to drive it that is not used to it.

issue 2. when cruising 75 to 80 and you hit some big dips in highway, she can bounce around a lot. calms right down but a little nerve racking when in trampoline mode.

appreciate any ideas, Allan

[lolife99]

Any chance you put your centerlink on backwards?
You wouldn’t be the first one to do this.
It will make your truck drive funny for sure.
Can you post some pictures of the steering linkage?

[PGSigns]

Here is what I would do.
1. Get a front sway bar.
2. Put Belltech street performance shocks on it.
3. Do the caster mod and put 4 1/2 degrees of caster. 0 camber and 1/8" of toe in. for the alignment.
This will be a big change in the way it drives.
Jimmy

[AnobleL74]

Originally Posted by PGSigns

Here is what I would do.
1. Get a front sway bar.
2. Put Belltech street performance shocks on it.
3. Do the caster mod and put 4 1/2 degrees of caster. 0 camber and 1/8" of toe in. for the alignment.
This will be a big change in the way it drives.
Jimmy

put the bell tech street performance shocks , already much improved, thanks
can any one recommend a front sway bar? Allan

[69gmcc10]

Can you post a picture of the centerlink for us, please?

What are the alignment specs? Like PGSigns alluded to it sounds like you may not have much caster and that will give you a sense of wandering and lack of any resistance in the steering leading to no confidence in steering.

What can you tell us about the power steering pump? is it a retrofit? Picture? Newer model pumps have different valving in them giving them more pressure and flow and this can also cause symptoms you are describing.

Your bouncing issue is probably going to be easily corrected with different shocks or "shock relocation kits" found on our vendor board. Quality shocks will make a large difference.

[AnobleL74]

Originally Posted by 69gmcc10

Can you post a picture of the centerlink for us, please?

What are the alignment specs? Like PGSigns alluded to it sounds like you may not have much caster and that will give you a sense of wandering and lack of any resistance in the steering leading to no confidence in steering.

What can you tell us about the power steering pump? is it a retrofit? Picture? Newer model pumps have different valving in them giving them more pressure and flow and this can also cause symptoms you are describing.

Your bouncing issue is probably going to be easily corrected with different shocks or "shock relocation kits" found on our vendor board. Quality shocks will make a large difference.

for some reason I have never been allowed to post, pictures, could not figure it out. the alignment is stock as far as I know, the car goes down the road straight as an arrow, and does not wander at all. it just is hyper sensitive and the steering response is very aggressive with only tiny movement on wheel. the power steering pump is tuff stuff that come on my March pulley set up. I have new KY shocks, will try pictures again , thanks Allan

[69gmcc10]

According to the first question in the FAQ section of the Tuff Stuff web page they makes pumps in 1200 PSI and 850 PSI. they also state that "most applications will accept the 1200-PSI pump" and "850 PSI valves are sold separately or you can buy a Tuff Stuff #6174A or 6174B Saginaw style pump that is factory set to 850 PSI" per their web page.

I bet you have a high pressure system and that you need the low pressure valve. This is a common problem when doing a ls swap as the newer pumps have higher PSI and it leads to scary sensitive steering. The good news is that all that needs to be done is to swap out the high pressure valve to the low pressure valve by way of removing the fitting on the back of the pump, taking out the current valve and replacing it with the lo pressure valve. The Tuff Stuff part number for the 850 PSI low pressure valve is #5556 per their catalog, Jegs has the part for $27.99 or Summit has it for $21.99.

[AnobleL74]

Originally Posted by 69gmcc10

According to the first question in the FAQ section of the Tuff Stuff web page they makes pumps in 1200 PSI and 850 PSI. they also state that "most applications will accept the 1200-PSI pump" and "850 PSI valves are sold separately or you can buy a Tuff Stuff #6174A or 6174B Saginaw style pump that is factory set to 850 PSI" per their web page.

I bet you have a high pressure system and that you need the low pressure valve. This is a common problem when doing a ls swap as the newer pumps have higher PSI and it leads to scary sensitive steering. The good news is that all that needs to be done is to swap out the high pressure valve to the low pressure valve by way of removing the fitting on the back of the pump, taking out the current valve and replacing it with the lo pressure valve. The Tuff Stuff part number for the 850 PSI low pressure valve is #5556 per their catalog, Jegs has the part for $27.99 or Summit has it for $21.99.

thanks a lot, very helpful will give it a try. Allan

[PGSigns]

I would still do the mods I listed once you get the power steering worked out. I have had a bunch of these trucks and they all have benifited from these changes. Take a look at the part numbers for the shocks you have and look at how many things they fit. They are a compromise at best compared to a shock designed and valve for our trucks. I can tell you its a big improvement.
Jimmy

[AnobleL74]

Originally Posted by PGSigns

I would still do the mods I listed once you get the power steering worked out. I have had a bunch of these trucks and they all have benifited from these changes. Take a look at the part numbers for the shocks you have and look at how many things they fit. They are a compromise at best compared to a shock designed and valve for our trucks. I can tell you its a big improvement.
Jimmy

right, I ordered front street performance shocks and the PS low presurer valve. then work on other mods, thanks a lot!! Allan

[69gmcc10]

You could source a factory bar and components from a 63-89 C30 in a salvage yard.

Early classic has a factory style bar for about $190 and save the trouble of tracking stuff down.

Both CPP and POL have a bar design with short end links that should help reduce any suspension bind for about $140

Finally there are companies like No Limit Eng with Racing pedigree that have designed bars with longer end links that should remove suspension bind for about $220.

I have a factory bar sourced form a 80s c30 with lowered mounts and poly bushings/straps from Early classic. I like it very much, it blots right up like OE, but it is archaic looking. Also I have not noticed any binding in my suspension with it, but I am sure there is some.

Any choice you make will make you happy.

[PGSigns]

The one on my 66 is off a 73 to 87 C10. I was actually after the factory bar. I wanted a bit more give for getting in and out if the driveways around here and not to put so much weight on the opposite rear tire. Truck is dropped 6" in the back and with the 8" wheel/ tire combination the tires hit the inners.
Jimmy

[AnobleL74]

Originally Posted by PGSigns

The one on my 66 is off a 73 to 87 C10. I was actually after the factory bar. I wanted a bit more give for getting in and out if the driveways around here and not to put so much weight on the opposite rear tire. Truck is dropped 6" in the back and with the 8" wheel/ tire combination the tires hit the inners.
Jimmy

yeah I am getting the tires hitting the inners also. I now have the street perf shocks on front, and will put on front and rear sway bars next week I hope. Allan