Bed wood sketch

[Angrywood]

A bit back when i was searching for bed wood replacement i found a thread or post that had what looked like a hand drawn sketch of the measurements for the bed wood groove that the metal bolts down onto. Now i cant find it....anyone have it that can post? Was super easy for me to understand.

Thanks

[jdl71]

https://gmcpauls.com/47-72_BedWood_Info.htm

[Angrywood]

Ive seen that one but was looking for another. I guess that one will have to do. Thnx

[jdl71]

That’s the one only I’m familiar with. Maybe look through the FAQ section.

[oem4me]

I actually just finished re-doing the wood in my '62 C20, and could've used that info from GMC Pauls ahead of time. Looking at the dimensions stated there, they are good numbers. All of it.
I milled my own wood, totally from scratch by measuring factory boards from other trucks. That, and referencing Mar-K's info from their website, I got what I thought was exact info.
My bed now looks great, but it's a bit tight with not much room for wood growth with moisture changes. I'm a bit concerned it's going to behave badly if it can't move enough seasonally.
So, use the info from GMC Pauls, you'll be happy you did. I just wish I would've done that a month ago.

[jayoldschool]

I've done two beds from scratch using the GMCPauls bed info.

[jdl71]

Originally Posted by oem4me

I actually just finished re-doing the wood in my '62 C20, and could've used that info from GMC Pauls ahead of time. Looking at the dimensions stated there, they are good numbers. All of it.
I milled my own wood, totally from scratch by measuring factory boards from other trucks. That, and referencing Mar-K's info from their website, I got what I thought was exact info.
My bed now looks great, but it's a bit tight with not much room for wood growth with moisture changes. I'm a bit concerned it's going to behave badly if it can't move enough seasonally.
So, use the info from GMC Pauls, you'll be happy you did. I just wish I would've done that a month ago.

You think it’s too tight side to side or front back? I was doing the math after reading the other post about the dimensions being too narrow. The bed is roughly 72” wide and using Paul’s dimensions gives me 68.25” of wood. Using 10 boards that would give you room for a 7/16 gap between each (9 joints). Seems like a lot, of am I missing something?

[The Rocknrod]

The link that was posted had this on that page(you didnt like it?):
Dimensions
A. 3/4" (board thickness)
B. 1/4"
C. 3/16"
D. 7/16"
E. 1/8"

[Angrywood]

Its not a matter of not liking it. Is just easier for me to understand this way i guess. Lol i will be using both when i start milling the wood.

[jdl71]

I like yours better also. I only have to look one place to see the dimensions.

[Angrywood]

I was just looking at the board dimensions and getting my shopping list together to head to the lumber yard and came across this question. On the chart from gmcpauls is says the you would need 2 - 6 3/8 boards for in front and behind the wheel well per side. Is that a typo? That would be a super long bed if that’s the case. Any info from you guys that have already did your wood?

[jdl71]

That’s the width. I bought 2 8’ boards for the wheel well pieces. The rest are 97” long so I bought 10’ and cut off 11”

[Angrywood]

Originally Posted by jdl71

That’s the width. I bought 2 8’ boards for the wheel well pieces. The rest are 97” long so I bought 10’ and cut off 11”

Thanks.... that one went right over my head. Glad you replied and straightened my thoughts out.
Posted via Mobile Device

[jdl71]

Originally Posted by Angrywood

Thanks.... that one went right over my head. Glad you replied and straightened my thoughts out.
Posted via Mobile Device

No worries. It happens to the best of us

[jdl71]

This was my list for the lumberyard. Just went yesterday. I haven't cut it and installed yet, so use at your own risk. . I bought #2 white pine and used the dimensions from the gmcpauls diagram to determine the boards I needed:

1x8-8 (2)
1x8-10 (6)
1x6-10 (2)

10 boards total and it was less than $100 for it all.

[oem4me]

Originally Posted by jdl71

This was my list for the lumberyard. Just went yesterday. I haven't cut it and installed yet, so use at your own risk. . I bought #2 white pine and used the dimensions from the gmcpauls diagram to determine the boards I needed:

1x8-8 (2)
1x8-10 (6)
1x6-10 (2)

10 boards total and it was less than $100 for it all.

Just be aware that before you put all the work into this job (and it is a lot of work), the white pine is not going to last nearly as long as other more rot resistant species will. Then again, this may not be an issue depending on how you use your truck and where it's stored.

[nsb29]

Originally Posted by oem4me

Just be aware that before you put all the work into this job (and it is a lot of work), the white pine is not going to last nearly as long as other more rot resistant species will. Then again, this may not be an issue depending on how you use your truck and where it's stored.

What wood did you use I have been looking for 3/4 yellow pine but can only find it in 2/4. although I guess I could rip it but would rather not, have tried to find five quarter board no luck there either

[jdl71]

I actually considered rough sawn cedar because they had it in 1x in the widths needed but chose the cheaper route

[Angrywood]

With this thread still going.... any tips on putting the wood in? Start on the side? Middle? Lifting the bed? Any help would be appreciated. I’m going to be using oak. And will be headed to the lumber yard to start prepping it up.

[jdl71]

It stays inside. My intent is to try to duplicate the factory finish using linseed oil and lamp black, if I can find it. Otherwise I'll probably paint it. I'm not looking to win any trophies really I just need a usable, affordable floor but your point is well taken.

[oem4me]

The linseed oil and lamp black idea is an old-timey, antiquated one that it seems just won't die. Our beds were painted, plain and simple. Painted with black enamel that fully cures, unlike linseed oil, which does not.
I don't exactly know where that old idea got it's start, but it's origin came well before our generation trucks were assembled.

[jdl71]

Originally Posted by oem4me

The linseed oil and lamp black idea is an old-timey, antiquated one that it seems just won't die. Our beds were painted, plain and simple. Painted with black enamel that fully cures, unlike linseed oil, which does not.
I don't exactly know where that old idea got it's start, but it's origin came well before our generation trucks were assembled.

I read it on here and assumed it was true. That’s good to know paint would be a lot easier.

[ACK]

Here's my experience, some of this is obvious and some of it might not be the best approach ...
- Fix up the tubs if they need it while they're off. I coated the insides with bed liner. Time permitting, clean or paint the frame, replace trailing arms and/or bushings, check wire harness, etc.
- Bed bolt kits don't always include the hidden bolts for the wheel tubs nor the bed frame bolts, in case you need them, too
- Install wood with the bed off if possible, it provides easier access and no working on your back
- Don't worry if the wood seems a little long when you put it in, just gently push into place and things will fall together
- I worked from the middle out and prairie dogged in and out of the gaps putting nuts and bolts into place
- Confirm the boards with the frame bolt holes are facing the right direction and on the proper sides
- Don't crank down the bolts until everything is installed, just a loose fit until it's all together
- The bed sill nuts and bolts are a pain. Put a weight on the bolt head, fumble a washer and lock washer onto the bolt. In the other hand, have the nut in a deep socket (or short socket with an extension) with some paper or piece of rag in it so the bolt sits a little proud. Makes getting the nut aligned and onto the threads a lot easier
- Don't pre-drill the bed side and wheel tub holes into the wood, put things in position, center punch, then carefully drill the wood while it's in place
- I had 2 different size bolts for the install and no instructions. The only place it got weird was where the bed strips, the bed sides, and the wheel tubs all meet. Working from the middle out, it was easy to figure out which size went where due to the few remaining bolts
- Confirm the wheel tub is hooked under the bedside before installing and tightening the hidden bolts. I put a little anti-seize on these threads
- Once things are together and you're happy, measure corner to corner and square up the bed
- Once squared, I tightened down everything. When done, every bolt got another 1/4 turn to confirm it was tight and none were missing
- With things tightened down, aligning the frame bolts was a little bit of a choir, however, the thought of tighten all the bolts up with the bed on the frame sent shivers down my spine. A little anti-seize on the frame bolts can't hurt
- Place the rubber bed pads in place after the bed is on, push the bed up and slide into place, use a screw driver or punch to align
- Put painters tape along the length of the gap where the tailgate trunnions bolt on so the paint doesn't get scratched up installing the tailgate
- Crack open a beer and admire your work

The one mistake I made was putting the bed on with the rear bumper in place, should have left it off. Also, should have replaced cab corners while the bed was off, but that's another project for another day – hence the anti-seize on the frame bolts.

Would like to hear others experience doing this in case I have to do it again one of these days.

[slepysal]

great tips thank you

[jayoldschool]

Very good tips. Here's mine:
- take bed off
- do the install with the bed standing up on the front panel
- don't waste your time doing body work on front panel or tubs, they are cheap to buy

I've done it both ways, and it is WAY quicker and easier with it standing up.