Timing not working!

[LuckyRabbit4]

I have a 66 c10 with a 76 250 l6. Blew the head gasket. Bought a kit and replaced everything I could.

Seat the valves. Now I can't get the engine to. Work. I've tried about 3 suggestions for adjusting the values but I need the engine to turn over.

Tried to time the engine on TDC, 4, 8 and 10 based on the timing notches/teeth. Made sure the distributor (HEI) is pointed at the first plug wire/piston. Plug wires are in firing order.

Not sure what is stopping the engine from turning over.

New wireset has been added. I jump start the battery just to be safe. Carb is getting fuel. Just won't turn over.

[vince1]

I think we assume it cranks but does not fire. Is #1 on the compression stroke when the rotor is pointed at #1? Your valves are not too tight? Your 153624 firing order is in the direction of rotation of the distributor?

[PGSigns]

You need fuel fire and compression to get one to run. Looks like you checked fuel and have it at the carb. Next is fire. First pull all the plugs and look to see if they are wet with fuel. If they are clean them off and set them aside. Spin the engine over to help clear the cylinders. Now take a plug and shove it in a wire and ground the case. Have some one spin the engine while you check for spark. If you have spark the we can proceed on. if not then you need to find out why. Now less check for compression. Do a compression check and that will tell you if the valves are to tight. If you have good compression then we need to make sure the timing is good. With your finger over the number one plug hole bump the engine over till it pushes air out.(a remote starter button makes all this easier) Then we need to line up the timing marks on the front of the engine. You can use zero as it will be close enough. Pull the cap and look to see where the rotor is and mark the spot on the side of the distributor. This will be where the number one plug wire will go. Then bump the engine over and look at the rotation of the rotor and that is the way the wires will run in the firing order. Put the cap on and heck that they are all correct and put the plugs back in the engine. If you corrected any issue found while going through this the engine should fire.
Jimmy

[oem4me]

Wait. Back up a bit. When you say it won't turn over, do you mean the starter does not crank the engine, or it won't fire up and run on its own?
If the starter is not turning the engine, can you turn it by hand?

[LuckyRabbit4]

Engine turns over. Starter is fine. The engine won't fire now. I tried to rotate engine and start over with finding TDC. I believe it was correct location before but maybe not adjusted right. I found pictures of the way the distributor was sitting before I had taken it apart. It's actually pointing more toward the 2nd piston in the picture. Or maybe straight across from the center of the first? Hard to explain but I think, before restarting the process last night, I had it set on the compression stroke but the distributor was angled too far forward. I'm going to test like the longer post previously said to be sure I'm not on the exhaust stroke instead.

Hope this works! Thanks for the help so far!

[LuckyRabbit4]

Also adjusting valves again. I think they're too tight for what I need to do. May have gotten ahead of myself.

[geezer#99]

Use this method.
Wiggle the pushrod until all the movement is gone. Don’t twist them.

[LuckyRabbit4]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

Use this method.
Wiggle the pushrod until all the movement is gone. Don’t twist them.

As the engine turns, should any of the rods wiggle at all? Say I set all to no wiggle from the start. Then turn the engine 1/2 revolution. Are any of the rods suppose to wiggle or all stay just as tight?

[weq92f]

.
When adjusting each valve, make sure that valve's lifter is on the cam base circle before adjustment.

This will require rotation of the engine just about per each adjustment to ensure the valve is closed before you adjust the rocker for it.

Hth,

-klb

[geezer#99]

They should stay where you set them.
Only if you adjusted them on the base circle of the cam.

Are you adjusting each one separately?

[geezer#99]

There’s info in the 3rd post here about how to do them.

https://www.hotrodders.com/forum/197...nt-160963.html

[Dead Parrot]

Might get a compression gauge and test cylinder pressures. Should tell you if your valves are close or way off.

[LuckyRabbit4]

So I got the engine to fire up. Need to adjust the carburetor or probably going to just get new gasket kit and jets. Fuel filter. I know the gas is pumping through hoses but doesn't seem to be getting to the engine fully.

I'll adjust values the way it's been recommended. Hopefully I'll get this thing running smooth again before winter sets in.

[YoungPup1977]

Originally Posted by LuckyRabbit4

So I got the engine to fire up. Need to adjust the carburetor or probably going to just get new gasket kit and jets. Fuel filter. I know the gas is pumping through hoses but doesn't seem to be getting to the engine fully.

I'll adjust values the way it's been recommended. Hopefully I'll get this thing running smooth again before winter sets in.

What did you have to do to get it to fire up ?

[vince1]

Nobody adjusts valves anymore with the engine running? I usually loosen until they clack and then tighten 1/2 turn. Its not too messy if the idle is kept low.

[weq92f]

Originally Posted by vince1

Nobody adjusts valves anymore with the engine running? I usually loosen until they clack and then tighten 1/2 turn. Its not too messy if the idle is kept low.

I'm currently seeking out cheap BBC tall valve covers to modify so I can adjust the valves with engine running AND not spew oil all over my engine bay ( destroy my headers ).

I remember using the clip on deflectors long ago on a small block. Don't think the rockers I'm using are compatible with them.

-klb

[MySons68C20]

This method works very well.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5EGlb_VpTAw

[weq92f]

Originally Posted by MySons68C20

This method works very well.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5EGlb_VpTAw

Wow...it makes sense if you think it through. I would switch from twisting to moving up and down the push rod in order to find zero lash.

Video in a nut shell:
o install all the components loose ( doesn't matter where the crank is positioned )

o adjust all 16 ( v8 ) valves to zero lash

o do these two steps 8 times
-- rotate the crank 90 degrees
-- adjust all 16 ( v8 ) valves to zero lash ( most will already be at zero )

o dial in your preload for all 16 valves. ( ie. tighten all 3/4 turn )

done



-klb

[MySons68C20]

Yup, you got it! The cool thing is you have a "safe" range between 1/4 turn to 1.0 turn from zero lash where you adjustment will work fine.
My buddy that had a stroke 2 years ago uses this method because of memory lapses etc and it really is fail safe.
I hope this all makes sense.....
Blakeslee

[MySons68C20]

Originally Posted by weq92f

Wow...it makes sense if you think it through. I would switch from twisting to moving up and down the push rod in order to find zero lash.

Video in a nut shell:
o install all the components loose ( doesn't matter where the crank is positioned )

o adjust all 16 ( v8 ) valves to zero lash

o do these two steps 8 times
-- rotate the crank 90 degrees
-- adjust all 16 ( v8 ) valves to zero lash ( most will already be at zero )

o dial in your preload for all 16 valves. ( ie. tighten all 3/4 turn )

done



-klb

Once you have established zero lash on all just crank em down to your desired preload.....anywhere from 1/4 turn to a full turn from zero lash is widely accepted as the norm. I have read but cannot prove that 1/4 turn vs a full turn increases rpm potential. I haven't figured out why but I'm sure someone will comment.

[PGSigns]

I do the zero lash and a quarter turn to get it running and then do them using the running method. I have seen some lifters over the years that don't like more than half a turn. Just my old school way of doing things.
Jimmy