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11-07-2020, 11:56 AM | #1 |
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Bead wood
I bought new wood for my bed now I am trying to figure out how to countersink the offset washers that mount the bed to the frame have look through the fax section I have not been able to find anything any help would be appreciated
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11-07-2020, 12:28 PM | #2 |
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Re: Bead wood
Forstner bit?
Mark-k has instructions, they download a PDF file - https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...i1UNrHG8FA9zMI
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Master Chief, US Navy, Retired 1964 C10 Step-side Short Bed - In Progress 2009 2500HD Duramax LTZ 1948 GMC Panel 1956 Big Window Stepside 1953 5 Window Chevy Stepside 1932 Coupe New Seat Foam for Bench Seats? |
11-07-2020, 01:23 PM | #3 |
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Re: Bead wood
Thanks I knew sum one had it I looked on mar-k and found all kind of information except what I was looking for
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11-07-2020, 01:31 PM | #4 |
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Re: Bead wood
Forstner bits are great, but an easier to find and cheaper alternative would be a spade bit. Either way, you'll need to determine where the bolt hole needs to be first, pre-drill that hole with a small diameter twist drill (1/8" or less), then mark where the offset should be. Obviously, the centers will not be the same. Bore the large shallow recess with the forstner or spade, then follow by chasing the small pilot hole with proper size for the bed to chassis bolt.
Last edited by oem4me; 11-07-2020 at 04:19 PM. |
11-07-2020, 02:07 PM | #5 |
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Re: Bead wood
I thought the wood was all predrilled?
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11-07-2020, 03:05 PM | #6 |
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Re: Bead wood
Depends on whether you buy it pre-drilled or not. Or if you make your own bed wood.
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11-07-2020, 03:19 PM | #7 |
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Re: Bead wood
Thank y’all for your help apparently some of the companies have some of the holes already pre-drilled from what I’ve heard I pretty much had a good idea how to do it or would do it but I wanted some more input before I screwed up my wood I want someone else to help share the blame ha ha
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11-08-2020, 08:35 AM | #8 |
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Re: Bead wood
I used a forestner bit. DO NOT USE A SPADE. It will shred the oak. Have fun because I measured at least 4 or 5 times before drilling and they still didn't fit the offset washers perfectly and still caused alignment issues. I would even suggest not doing the offset washer part until after everything is perfect then outline the washers, remove the bolts and drill them while installed in the bed. then varnish and install them back the next day.
Go a little deeper than just width of the washer because it will want to spin and break out of the indention when turning. Are you keeping the stock angle strips or adding new ones? I added new ones and they didn't line up right and I had a ***** of time getting all of the 100 billion holes to match up. After 60 years nothing went back right and I spent a week putting the wood in. I had to re-drill a bunch of holes and man its a pain. The bolts up by the step side(if you have one) require removing the step side brackets which were impossible to reach. I just used truck ramps but if you can take the bed off do it because laying on your back on the garage floor pulling yourself around will end up bruising you quite a bit. Not to mention the dirt in your eyes. If I had to do it all over again I would buy the pre-drilled wood. While mine looks really good to most people I can see what bolts are a bit crooked and it drives me nuts (pun intended). Don't fully tighten any of the bolts down until they are all in because there will be a lot of alignment issues. You'll think you are all lined up on one row and it won't line up long-wise with the bed and vice versa. Good luck and don't cuss at it too much lol!! -Nate |
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