Suburban Vin's

[Ziegelsteinfaust]

I went to look at a quote un quote 73 Suburban yesterday, and noticed a few things wrong.

The paint looked original, and it had a 80' style square headlight front end. Plus it had the wipers on the stalk, and not the dash.

Other then that a potentialy very nice purchase.

As we were talking I asked if he knew it was wrong, and he had no clue. Even though he had it for almost 10 years he bought it that way, and just cruised it as the family vehicle.

Upon further inspection the Burb looks to my eyes to of been a 4x4 at some point, and converted to a 3/4 ton 2wd. Likely by someone who wanted the 4x4 parts. Then sold off the rest with a pre smog title.

How different are the titles that a cop would not of noticed at some point.

[72c20customcamper]

If the vin isnt a 73 vin it wouldn't go thru motor vehicles when it was registered as a 73 it would propagate the correct year . Sounds like someone changed out the grille and column prior to the present owner.

[Ziegelsteinfaust]

For got to say the Burb from what I saw had a truck vin.

The Vin is from a 73 C20 truck from what I could get on a online decoder, and it is on a Suburban. Which from what I could find would have a different prefix code for body style.

Plus the dash had the relief for a vin tag on the dash, and it had one mounted on the door pillar. Like my pre smog C20's, and C10's had.

The Suburban to me is a mid 80's model, and likely was a factory 4x4. As evidenced by holes in the frame where the front leafs would of been mounted. I had a 74 K20 for a bit. Not claiming expert status here.

In California if you have a in state vehicle they do not get involved in any sort of inspection of the vin. Supposedly they may with out of state registers.

The only inspection we have in California is a smog check routinely. Every 2 years for older cars, and 5 years after purchase for new cars. Occasionally you may get a notice to go to a referee station. A very very slight chance.

[kipps]

Me personally, I would stay away from it. I'm all for modifying and customizing these trucks, but I like to be able to say unequivocally that it's a specific year with X and Y parts. I'd always feel a little queasy about a VIN swap, particularly something as blatant as a Suburban/Pickup mix up.

[Ziegelsteinfaust]

Probably won't but the price is tempting, and I would like a Burb.

[sweetk30]

Smells real dirty of a vin / burb . .

I like a good deal but that one is dirty .

[72c20customcamper]

With the updated info I would walk away from it.

[old Rusty C10]

is it possible that the dash pad was changed? some of the new repro dash pads have a cut out for the VIN without the vin actually being there i had that issue in my 76

[Ziegelsteinfaust]

Originally Posted by old Rusty C10

is it possible that the dash pad was changed? some of the new repro dash pads have a cut out for the VIN without the vin actually being there i had that issue in my 76

Dash pad looked old enough to match the interior. Along with it being a C20 truck on the vin, and holes for 4wd parts.

It was a swap of some kind earlier in its life.

In my opinion.

[Dead Parrot]

Write up a contract that says the sale is contingent on the vehicle passing a title/VIN check.

Very possible that the PO that did truck/suburban swap did all of the proper paperwork to handle the VIN situation.

But you don't want to buy the vehicle then discover that you have to clean up the VIN mess because a PO didn't do the proper paperwork. Extra headache if a secondary VIN is found on the frame or a sticker that comes back as salvage or stolen.

[MJN]

In the VIN the 5th digit should be a "6" for it to be a Suburban, pickups were '4'. Did you happen to see the model number on the SPID or did the VIN on the SPID match the one on the door pillar?

[Ziegelsteinfaust]

Originally Posted by MJN

In the VIN the 5th digit should be a "6" for it to be a Suburban, pickups were '4'. Did you happen to see the model number on the SPID or did the VIN on the SPID match the one on the door pillar?

The 6th number was a 4 on the vin. I am not sure what the spid is or where to look for one.

[MJN]

Originally Posted by Ziegelsteinfaust

The 6th number was a 4 on the vin. I am not sure what the spid is or where to look for one.

The SPID is the decal that lists the VIN, model number, wheel base and all the regular production options the truck was built with. Typically found in the glove compartment or top of the inner fender.

[Ziegelsteinfaust]

Originally Posted by MJN

The SPID is the decal that lists the VIN, model number, wheel base and all the regular production options the truck was built with. Typically found in the glove compartment or top of the inner fender.

Didn't have anything there I could read on the inside of the stove box. If what I saw was it. It was long wore out.

[Ziegelsteinfaust]

Originally Posted by Dead Parrot

Write up a contract that says the sale is contingent on the vehicle passing a title/VIN check.

Very possible that the PO that did truck/suburban swap did all of the proper paperwork to handle the VIN situation.

But you don't want to buy the vehicle then discover that you have to clean up the VIN mess because a PO didn't do the proper paperwork. Extra headache if a secondary VIN is found on the frame or a sticker that comes back as salvage or stolen.

If I were to buy it. Honestly I would play stupid, and convert it to a crew cab at some distant point. That way it's easier to play stupid. As a early crew had the same vin code.

I seriously doubt the current owner knew or knows anything. Just my read of it when I told him the vin was wrong. Plus the extra holes in the frame.

California doesn't get to deep into vins at the state level especially with pre smog vehicles. Since they rarely would be in any sort of "inspection".

My only real concern would be cops or any sort who may or may not ask questions. So if it says C20, and it has 8 lugs. They may likely not look any further. Even if I got popped towing I never tow heavier then what a C20 Burb could tow legally anyways.

I won't lie, and say I am not interested. Just for the money he wants $5000 for a decent looking ok runner. I could build one in a way I prefer with parts I already own for $2500.