47-55.1 USC All Metal/Evercoat Metal 2 Metal

[8man]

Has anyone used one of the metal filler products? I've watched some videos, https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...o+metal+filler

and they seem like good products.

I haven't used any filler products since I was a kid and wanted to know if there are any tips you might pass along. I've heard they are hard to sand. While I don't like sanding, this is a hobby, and I'm not working by the hour, so that isn't a big concern.

Anyway, if you have any tips or thoughts, please share.

Thanks,
Robert

[chevyguyase]

I used it on the seam under the rear window on my '54 3100 pickup. Some one on this site recommended it. It's been on there for years and still doing fine. My truck lives out side all the time. I think it's good for seams like on the video.

[Dan in Pasadena]

When I was doing my '55 I considered using a product like this or "kitty hair" - the fiber reinforced filler - to fill the seams around the perimeter of the cab interior.

I knew a guy years ago who filled his seams with ordinary filler and it never cracked but I was afraid to take a chance on it (and I still consider installing a full headliner which would cover those seams) so I didn't do it.

Anyone else who has filled their TF cab seams and had it last without cracking later?

[mongocanfly]

I'm using evercoat rage....love the stuff

[duramax55]

make sure you grind the metal rough so it will bond and hold better. I use 24 or 36 grit on a small air grinder and at reduced speed to get better scratch lines

[mr48chev]

Originally Posted by duramax55

make sure you grind the metal rough so it will bond and hold better. I use 24 or 36 grit on a small air grinder and at reduced speed to get better scratch lines

Good point there.

This is telling on myself and I should have known better. The old timers would tell you to leave the holes in a panel when you spread bondo over it so that the bondo went through the holes and would hold better, That is a lie from the get go. I got in a big hurry in the winter of 1980/81 and didn't take the time to weld up every bit of where I had made vertical cuts when I chopped the top and pretty well spread filler on with a trowel. Now 40 years later the rust is bleeding though because moisture got behind the filler.

They say you learn by your mistakes and I made a lot of mistakes back then.

[8man]

Thanks for the advice on the grit. I will make sure it is rough before I do any filler.

I understand learning from mistakes, but I'd rather ask for advice and try to do it right and not make them.

Thanks all.

[fauXGT]

'All Metal' (aluminum metal flake type filler) type stuff is great for pre-filler work for deeper dents for do-it-yourself body work.
I had been trying to pull and pound out dents just below the fresh air vents on passenger side. Thought I got it close and filled with "All Metal". End result was a bit high. Got the body hammer and lightly tapped it in, thinking I would have cracked filler to fix. Nope. A bit flexible.
Instead of thick bondo in spots, put some All Metal to start.
It is a bit of tougher to sand, being it's part metal.

[mongocanfly]

Above was mentioned 20-30g sanding..that's not really recommended..80g is sufficient
What I've been told is the very course grit makes it hard to get all the dust out of the scratches left behind and can lead to the filler not getting a good bond

[mr48chev]

You have to wipe down the bare metal and prep it for the filler just as you would for paint.

I'd think that all too many of us have just wiped it with a cloth and laid the filler on a panel rather than properly cleaning and prepping it before we put the mud on.