Removal of stock exhaust manifolds question - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

blink32 · 03-30-2004, 03:08 PM

Not a problem with bolts or anything. Its about removing the manifolds themselves. The heat sheilds that surround the plugs and plug wires prevent me from slipping the mani's up or down. The sheilds are circled below in red and I just don't see a way to remove them. I'm missing a bolt or something somewhere. Anyone got any ideas? By the way its the passenger side giving me the problems now. I haven't tried the drivers as it looks like there's more room for lateral movement.

76bonanza · 03-30-2004, 03:34 PM

They should bolt on. I wish I had the back one I have melted two plug wires in the third one back on drivers side.

screwballl · 03-30-2004, 03:38 PM

i have the same setup on mine and it seems that once you unbolt them they should come out towards the fenderwall and up... but i havent actually done it yet.... but i would also mark each wire for position and remove them plus the plugs, will make it easy to remove

Jonboy · 03-30-2004, 05:15 PM

In the center of the shields behind the manifolds there is one bolt for each one. It should be either 3/8 or 7/16 head, and there is one bolt each. The shields are thin sheetmetal, and bend easily.

blink32 · 03-30-2004, 05:23 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Jonboy
In the center of the shields behind the manifolds there is one bolt for each one. It should be either 3/8 or 7/16 head, and there is one bolt each. The shields are thin sheetmetal, and bend easily.

Sweet. Thank you. I ran out of time yesterday and I was gonna tear into it as soon as I get home today. I appreciate it.

screwballl · 03-30-2004, 05:47 PM

i had to replace the spark plugs in mine today and i saw that it is the drivers side (the side in your picture) that has no room, it is the passenger side that should have plenty of room. The drivers side (at least on my 76 GMC) has the brake master cylinder, the AC compressor, steering shaft and a few other small lines in the way.

blink32 · 03-31-2004, 08:36 AM

Got them both off last night, Thanks for the tips. On mine there is most definitely less lateral space to work with on the pax side because the frame rail is so close. But at any rate, getting the rear heat sheilds off is a breeze. The bolts are easy to get to. The fronts are a pain because they are blocked from above by the manifold and from below by the motor mounts.

Now just time to pull the old exhaust studs from the pax side and install newer shorter ones and bolt in my new exhaust.

03-30-2004, 03:08 PM	#1
blink32 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: OTR Posts: 338	Removal of stock exhaust manifolds question Not a problem with bolts or anything. Its about removing the manifolds themselves. The heat sheilds that surround the plugs and plug wires prevent me from slipping the mani's up or down. The sheilds are circled below in red and I just don't see a way to remove them. I'm missing a bolt or something somewhere. Anyone got any ideas? By the way its the passenger side giving me the problems now. I haven't tried the drivers as it looks like there's more room for lateral movement.

03-30-2004, 03:34 PM	#2
76bonanza Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: St robert Mo Posts: 2,001	They should bolt on. I wish I had the back one I have melted two plug wires in the third one back on drivers side. __________________ 1968 c10 lowered 3" 4" 355/Th400 built by Hatfield racing in joplin MO

03-30-2004, 03:38 PM	#3
screwballl Tonawanda 454 Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Liquid Sunshine State Posts: 2,754	i have the same setup on mine and it seems that once you unbolt them they should come out towards the fenderwall and up... but i havent actually done it yet.... but i would also mark each wire for position and remove them plus the plugs, will make it easy to remove __________________ 91 Chevy Suburban Tonawanda 454 R2500 - SOLD!!! 04 Dodge Durango 5.7L Hemi 2WD, 24K miles (as of July 2011) In the past 30 years about 90% of Fords are still on the road, the other 10% made it home. -------------------

03-30-2004, 05:15 PM	#4
Jonboy Slots go on anything! Join Date: May 2003 Location: Richardson, TX Posts: 5,957	In the center of the shields behind the manifolds there is one bolt for each one. It should be either 3/8 or 7/16 head, and there is one bolt each. The shields are thin sheetmetal, and bend easily. __________________ 1974 Jimmy- 5.3/4L80e/NP241

03-30-2004, 05:47 PM	#6
screwballl Tonawanda 454 Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Liquid Sunshine State Posts: 2,754	i had to replace the spark plugs in mine today and i saw that it is the drivers side (the side in your picture) that has no room, it is the passenger side that should have plenty of room. The drivers side (at least on my 76 GMC) has the brake master cylinder, the AC compressor, steering shaft and a few other small lines in the way. __________________ 91 Chevy Suburban Tonawanda 454 R2500 - SOLD!!! 04 Dodge Durango 5.7L Hemi 2WD, 24K miles (as of July 2011) In the past 30 years about 90% of Fords are still on the road, the other 10% made it home. -------------------

03-31-2004, 08:36 AM	#7
blink32 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: OTR Posts: 338	Got them both off last night, Thanks for the tips. On mine there is most definitely less lateral space to work with on the pax side because the frame rail is so close. But at any rate, getting the rear heat sheilds off is a breeze. The bolts are easy to get to. The fronts are a pain because they are blocked from above by the manifold and from below by the motor mounts. Now just time to pull the old exhaust studs from the pax side and install newer shorter ones and bolt in my new exhaust.

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