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07-02-2004, 09:27 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Manhatan,KS USA
Posts: 51
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Cab Mounts Question
I have a question on cab mounts. I know the front bolts go through the floor but what about the rear mounts. Do they just screw in from the bottom with out any nuts that go inside the cab like the front. And should I be able to remove the radiator core support bolts without any problems. My truck is 71 chevy longbed 1/2 ton, Any help will be greatfull, Thanks, Richard.
Last edited by BigA; 07-02-2004 at 09:40 PM. |
07-02-2004, 09:44 PM | #2 |
Watch out for your cornhole !
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Azle, Texas
Posts: 14,162
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Rear cab mount bolts just screw into the cab. There is a nut welded into the floor for it to screw into.
Core support bolts are sometimes tricky. Even here in Texas, home of rust free trucks, they are usually rusty. The rust combined with it being a carriage bolt usually adds up to having to cut it off. Any decent hardware store will have the bolts and nuts in stock if your are too bad to reuse. I always get brand new grade 8 stuff with new washers and nuts. It kind of like a little mini-Christmas present to myself...from myself.
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07-03-2004, 11:04 PM | #3 |
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Location: Grand Rapids, Michigan
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TX firefighter's right about the configuration of the rear cab mount bolts. As for being able to get them out without too much trouble, I would highly recommend that you spray your favorite brand of penetrating oil on the bolt from the top inside the cab. I was lucky enough to have one just come out, but the other snapped off and now I have to either drill it out or hope I can turn it out. Also, the radiator core support bolts, be prepared for the sheet metal tab that the carriage bolt sets in to snap loose. One of mine did this and I had to grind the head off the bolt. I, like TX firefighter prefer to replace them with a regular hex head grade 8 bolt. Good luck!
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07-05-2004, 08:44 PM | #4 |
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Location: Manhatan,KS USA
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Well, today I tried to take my cab mounts off. No problem with nuts or the bottom mounts. Now the best part. The upper mounts are stuck to the frame. I tried for over 2 hours to get them to free and no luck. I don't have an air chisel or I would have used it. I have tried all kinds of things and no luck, so now I'm at a standstill. Help!!!!!. I've should have used some of my left over fire works.
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07-06-2004, 12:02 AM | #5 |
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Location: Grand Rapids, Michigan
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I would try a flat prybar if you have one, preferably propelled by a 2lb. short handle sledge hammer. If that doesn't work, just hit it as hard as you can with the hammer, even if it doesn't come off, it will help ease the frustration! :-)
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07-06-2004, 09:43 PM | #6 |
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Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Manhatan,KS USA
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Cab mounts
Well, I finally got them off after about 5 hours on both sides. they were stuck to the frame and mounting brackets as well. I did have to move the radiator and my son came up with a great way to move it with out draining it. We just unbolted the whole thing and just moved it forward to get access of the core mount bolt. I thought I would have to drain the radiator and was not looking forward to this. The fan blade and belts have to come off but no big thing. I'm glad it's done with. I have never had to deal with this kind of problem before. Now the bottom and upper radiator hoses will kink but it will not bother them.
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07-06-2004, 11:53 PM | #7 |
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Location: Grand Rapids, Michigan
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I misunderstood, I thought that part of the body mount bushings for the cab had somehow stuck to the outrigger or cab floor. I know how much of a pain the radiator support bolts can be, the one I was able to remove the nut from was rusted in and I had to take the aforementioned 2lb. sledge and apply some "influence" to remove it. Glad it worked out for you!
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07-07-2004, 09:09 PM | #8 |
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Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Manhatan,KS USA
Posts: 51
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Cab Mounts
I think the problem was in '93 ,we had all kinds of flooding in Kansas. I bought this 71 C-10 that was in real good shape that look good from out of town in '95. My first real clue was rust in certain areas under the body and wasp nests under the dash when I was redoing the dash. The latest was when I removed the radiator core support bushings with rust dust just falling all over the place. You can't be to sure when your bying a truck unless you go every thing. One thing that had me convenced was that this truck had a factory under coating that looked clean. I have fixed a lot problems and have my truck looking good and I wish my eyes were a little clearer, other than that, I love this truck.
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08-25-2004, 12:16 AM | #9 |
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Location: ashland oh
Posts: 660
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lucky
man i must of had a good day,,i have just recently removed all the above bolt's from a 76,with the help of a cheater bar and oil they all came out!
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09-22-2004, 04:06 AM | #10 |
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Location: Portland, OR
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Any idea on what those mount bolts should be torque to?
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09-22-2004, 04:39 AM | #11 |
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 76
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All three o mine(1980 c10, 1979 k10, 1976c10) have regular hex head bolts in them. On the 76, every bolt came out with no problems, on the 79, only the cab bolts came out in one piece, I got to the point where I tried to turn the ratchet as fast as I could to snap off the bolt. I have not torn into the 80 yet. I have to do a 2 inch body lift on the 79 as it now has the 76 body on it and the center hump is too short. Oh well, I measured and 2 inches will work perfectly to clear the transfer case.
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