No Spark - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

chevy86 · 08-09-2004, 05:13 PM

New to the forum. My boyfriend has a 1986 Chevy PU 4x4, 5.0 v8. 2 weeks ago it died on him going to work. He has replaced the ignition module, didn't solve the problem. It's not getting any spark when trying to start. Can anyone give suggestions or has had this same problem before?

Thanks,
chevy86

Greenlee · 08-09-2004, 05:37 PM

My truck did the same thing about a month back. I figured out that I was getting power up to the distributer, but still had no spark. I replaced the cap and rotor first and it still wouldn't start. On mine it turned turned out to be the pick up coil. I don't know if pick up coil is the correct name for this part, but it is a round cylinder that plugs into the module at the bottom of the distributer. On mine, I could actually see where small hole had burned through it once I got it out of the truck.

chevy86 · 08-09-2004, 08:51 PM

Thanks for the information. Will try this and let you know how it turns out.

chevy 86.

Grim Reaper · 08-10-2004, 09:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chevy86

Thanks for the information. Will try this and let you know how it turns out.

chevy 86.

You know throwing parts at it is not a smart thing to do.

Take the money your about to throw at it and buy a multi meter and a Haynes manual. The Manual will tell you how to test those parts and the meter will give you the means to do it.

Greenlee · 08-10-2004, 12:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Grim Reaper

You know throwing parts at it is not a smart thing to do.

Take the money your about to throw at it and buy a multi meter and a Haynes manual. The Manual will tell you how to test those parts and the meter will give you the means to do it.

True. But, in this situation the parts aren't that expensive and I would have changed most of the parts for "tune up" purposes anyway.

Russell · 08-09-2004, 08:55 PM

There are only a couple things that could cause no spark -- The module, pickup coil, ignition coil, or no power to the distributer.

Seeing as he has already replaced the module, get him to check to make sure that the distributer is getting 12 volts of power, if it does, check the ignition coil as it is much easier to change than a pickup coil, if it comes down to changing the pickup coil, he will have to pull the entire distributer out, and take the little ring gear off the bottom so he can pull the shaft out and get the pickup coil out.

Greenlee · 08-09-2004, 11:06 PM

I didn't have to pull the entire distributer out. However, maybe we have different setups. I'm not sure what year model my engine is. The truck is a 76, but a new crate motor was swapped in a couple of years ago. I was given the same advice as above and changed everything else first. Good luck.

Russell · 08-09-2004, 11:17 PM

Maybe there is a way to take the mechanical advance off the top that I don't know about, but I just used a punch to knock the pin out of the ring gear, pulled the shaft out, pulled the pickup coil out, and did the opposite to install it again

cliffsta · 08-09-2004, 11:41 PM

On the subject of things that go 'round, if i get an amp that's pushing like 250-400 watts peak, maybe 80-100 RMS, (for my stereo obviously) should i upgrade my alternator? Oh yeah and check out my ghetto avatar

SanitysBane · 08-10-2004, 12:35 PM

Haynes? y bother, get a helms

chevy86 · 08-10-2004, 09:24 PM

This is the guy chevy86 is talking about. Yup, got a haynes and a multimeter, I even went to AutoBone and had the Ignition Module checked.

I am going to try and change out that Pick UP coil by Sunday, I do NOT want to pull that distributor out but I will if I have to.

THanks for ALL the advice. I can't wait to get her up and running. I'll post my progress. This is a k10 silverado 1/2 ton 4x4 that is cherry and with the family since 1992. It deserves to be driven.

Later
Monk

**swervin ervin** · 08-10-2004, 11:20 PM

Well, to change the pickup coil, you will have to pull the distributor. Then you'll need to punch out the drivepin that holds the gear on. Pay attention to the location of the gear. There is a dot on the gear that needs to go back in the same location on the shaft. Once the gear is off, you can pull the shaft, with the springs and weights intact. The pickup coil is around the shaft and is one piece so no way to get it off without removing the distributor from the engine.

What happens is the vacuum advance pulls on the coil when advancing the timing. A lot of times this pulling and releasing will cause a wire going to the coil to break. It usually will be broken inside the wire cover so it's not noticable. Try wiggling the wires to see if you can find a break before pulling the distributor.

The very first thing you need to do though is see if you are getting 12 volts to the distributor. No use in pulling it out if you don't have to. Be sure you mark the distributor housing in relation to the intake or firewall. Also, put a mark on the distributor body where the rotor is pointing. Then it's just a matter of lining up the marks when you reinstall it.

Good luck.

indiomonk · 10-06-2004, 01:12 PM

Thanks for all your help guys! Well, after replacing the Coil, Pickup Coil and Ignition Module. She still did not spark. I did check that the Dizzy was getting power and that fuel was in the carb.

Took out the new Coil and Ignition Module and had them tested. Coil was good Ignition module was BAD. I got a new one changed it out and it started first crank. I Timed her at 4 degrees BTC per Factory Specs and she runs like a champ!

Lesson's learned.

TEST the part first before guessing.

The good. Now I have a lifetime warranty COIL, IgnitionModule and PickUp Coil.
And I did it by myself with your help and AutoZone's.

Thanks
MONK

08-09-2004, 05:13 PM	#1
chevy86 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2004 Posts: 4	No Spark New to the forum. My boyfriend has a 1986 Chevy PU 4x4, 5.0 v8. 2 weeks ago it died on him going to work. He has replaced the ignition module, didn't solve the problem. It's not getting any spark when trying to start. Can anyone give suggestions or has had this same problem before? Thanks, chevy86

08-09-2004, 08:51 PM	#3
chevy86 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2004 Posts: 4	Thanks! Thanks for the information. Will try this and let you know how it turns out. chevy 86.

08-09-2004, 08:55 PM	#6
Russell Professional Grade Join Date: May 2003 Location: Fort McMurray, Alberta Posts: 7,915	There are only a couple things that could cause no spark -- The module, pickup coil, ignition coil, or no power to the distributer. Seeing as he has already replaced the module, get him to check to make sure that the distributer is getting 12 volts of power, if it does, check the ignition coil as it is much easier to change than a pickup coil, if it comes down to changing the pickup coil, he will have to pull the entire distributer out, and take the little ring gear off the bottom so he can pull the shaft out and get the pickup coil out. __________________ 1995 Chevrolet 2 Door Tahoe (6.6L LBZ Duramax / ZF6 / NP241 with 1 ton solid axle swap)

08-09-2004, 11:17 PM	#8
Russell Professional Grade Join Date: May 2003 Location: Fort McMurray, Alberta Posts: 7,915	Maybe there is a way to take the mechanical advance off the top that I don't know about, but I just used a punch to knock the pin out of the ring gear, pulled the shaft out, pulled the pickup coil out, and did the opposite to install it again __________________ 1995 Chevrolet 2 Door Tahoe (6.6L LBZ Duramax / ZF6 / NP241 with 1 ton solid axle swap)

08-09-2004, 11:41 PM	#9
cliffsta Stepsides RULE Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Pineville, LA Posts: 1,921	On the subject of things that go 'round, if i get an amp that's pushing like 250-400 watts peak, maybe 80-100 RMS, (for my stereo obviously) should i upgrade my alternator? Oh yeah and check out my ghetto avatar __________________ 1981 Chevy C10 Custom Deluxe Stepside 350 V8, headers, side exhausts, 3-speed auto SOLD 1980 Chevy C10 Custum Deluxe Stepside 305 V8, Edelbrock Performer Intake, Edelbrock 1406 600CFM 4-barrel, TH350C. Bent rod. SOLD 1984 GMC Sierra Classic Longbed 6.2L Diesel SOLD 2009 Kawasaki KLX-250S too many mods for this signature 1999 Honda Accord EX 4-cylinder, 17" Motegi Wheels 215/45/17 Sumitomo tires, Tein S-Tech lowering springs, KYB GR2 shocks, Acura TL 20mm rear swaybar, debadged, blackhoused headlights, Short-Ram Intake Cardomain of the Accord

08-09-2004, 05:37 PM	#2
Greenlee Registered User Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: El Lago, TX Posts: 1,668	My truck did the same thing about a month back. I figured out that I was getting power up to the distributer, but still had no spark. I replaced the cap and rotor first and it still wouldn't start. On mine it turned turned out to be the pick up coil. I don't know if pick up coil is the correct name for this part, but it is a round cylinder that plugs into the module at the bottom of the distributer. On mine, I could actually see where small hole had burned through it once I got it out of the truck.

08-09-2004, 11:06 PM	#7
Greenlee Registered User Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: El Lago, TX Posts: 1,668	I didn't have to pull the entire distributer out. However, maybe we have different setups. I'm not sure what year model my engine is. The truck is a 76, but a new crate motor was swapped in a couple of years ago. I was given the same advice as above and changed everything else first. Good luck.

08-10-2004, 12:35 PM	#10
SanitysBane Registered User Join Date: May 2004 Location: Lubbock, Texas Posts: 2,121	Haynes? y bother, get a helms __________________ '96 Nissan Pathfinder '02 Firebird Trans Am. '88 K5 Blazer

08-10-2004, 09:24 PM	#11
chevy86 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2004 Posts: 4	Monk This is the guy chevy86 is talking about. Yup, got a haynes and a multimeter, I even went to AutoBone and had the Ignition Module checked. I am going to try and change out that Pick UP coil by Sunday, I do NOT want to pull that distributor out but I will if I have to. THanks for ALL the advice. I can't wait to get her up and running. I'll post my progress. This is a k10 silverado 1/2 ton 4x4 that is cherry and with the family since 1992. It deserves to be driven. Later Monk

08-10-2004, 11:20 PM	#12
swervin ervin You get what you pay for Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Cherryville, NC Posts: 4,798	Well, to change the pickup coil, you will have to pull the distributor. Then you'll need to punch out the drivepin that holds the gear on. Pay attention to the location of the gear. There is a dot on the gear that needs to go back in the same location on the shaft. Once the gear is off, you can pull the shaft, with the springs and weights intact. The pickup coil is around the shaft and is one piece so no way to get it off without removing the distributor from the engine. What happens is the vacuum advance pulls on the coil when advancing the timing. A lot of times this pulling and releasing will cause a wire going to the coil to break. It usually will be broken inside the wire cover so it's not noticable. Try wiggling the wires to see if you can find a break before pulling the distributor. The very first thing you need to do though is see if you are getting 12 volts to the distributor. No use in pulling it out if you don't have to. Be sure you mark the distributor housing in relation to the intake or firewall. Also, put a mark on the distributor body where the rotor is pointing. Then it's just a matter of lining up the marks when you reinstall it. Good luck. __________________ Mike 1985 Chevy C-10

10-06-2004, 01:12 PM	#13
indiomonk Registered User Join Date: Oct 2004 Posts: 3	Thanks for all your help guys! Well, after replacing the Coil, Pickup Coil and Ignition Module. She still did not spark. I did check that the Dizzy was getting power and that fuel was in the carb. Took out the new Coil and Ignition Module and had them tested. Coil was good Ignition module was BAD. I got a new one changed it out and it started first crank. I Timed her at 4 degrees BTC per Factory Specs and she runs like a champ! Lesson's learned. TEST the part first before guessing. The good. Now I have a lifetime warranty COIL, IgnitionModule and PickUp Coil. And I did it by myself with your help and AutoZone's. Thanks MONK



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