Moving crossmember forward???? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

wdz28ss · 09-04-2004, 10:09 PM

I have been following the drop crosmember thread and I have seen people mention moving the crossmember forward. Well, I have done the crossmember drop and I have 22's on my truck laying frame. Yes, my tires rub the **** out of my firewall. I was thinking about this and I think the real only way to fix this is to notch out the firewall to clearance for the big shoes. Because in theory, right now, at ride height, my wheels are centered in the wheel well. When it airs out, the wheels shift toward the rear. However if I was to move the crossmember forward, and center the wheels when aired out, when it is aired up to ride height, the wheels would be toward the front......I for one would rather it look right when cruising down the road. Is this what everyone talking about moving the crossmember dont care about? Are you looking to look cool when laid out at a show? Or has no one actually moved the crossmember forward and got their fenders on to see this?

XXL · 09-05-2004, 11:40 AM

I think the trick is to split the difference. The trucks look like foo from the side when the wheel is 2" back in the wheel opening. Moving the xmember forward to absorb some of that offset is a good idea. Also, the stock KPI is 4° IIRC... some of the aftermarket control arms are building in a total of 2°. This will reduce the amount of rearward slide you get when you dump the truck.

phantom dually · 09-05-2004, 12:52 PM

Got Pics?

NO LONGER DISTURBED KONCEPTZ · 09-12-2004, 04:25 PM

Well most ppl would just tub the firewall and leave it at that.

*Shane* · 09-12-2004, 05:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DISTURBED KONCEPTZ

Well most ppl would just tub the firewall and leave it at that.

only people that like to be like everyone else would "leave it at that" ...

**N2TRUX** · 09-12-2004, 06:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DISTURBED KONCEPTZ

Well most ppl would just tub the firewall and leave it at that.

They would be considered "normal" or "average".

NO LONGER DISTURBED KONCEPTZ · 09-12-2004, 10:23 PM

Well its better then messing up a frame and ur truck.

*Shane* · 09-12-2004, 10:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DISTURBED KONCEPTZ

Well its better then messing up a frame and ur truck.

In that case, maybe you shouldn't attempt this modification ...

XXL · 09-13-2004, 08:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DISTURBED KONCEPTZ

Well its better then messing up a frame and ur truck.

Oh the irony.

wdz28ss · 09-15-2004, 12:14 AM

Just curious as to if anyone actually has done this....seems like somewhere in the dropped crossmember thread, someone had done this... doubtful i will, as tubbin the firewall seems the only way to keep things looking right, however if someone has pictures, this would be interesting to see..

XXL · 09-15-2004, 09:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wdz28ss

doubtful i will, as tubbin the firewall seems the only way to keep things looking right,

Tubbling the firewall doesn't really make anything "look right." It just provides tire clearance when the wheels "look wrong." Take a side view look at 99% of the very low trucks (including mine until I correct it) and you'll see the wheel sitting too far back in the fender opening. Tubbing won't help this one bit. The solution is to move the centerline forward, which can be done by shifting the entire xmember forward or by offsetting the control arms in some way (like slammed67 did). Same problem exists in the rear but can be corrected by shimming the swingarm mounts back or by sliding the bed forward toward the cab.

*Randy70C-10* · 10-09-2004, 07:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wdz28ss

Just curious as to if anyone actually has done this

I haven't done this to a truck, but I moved the crossmember and front suspension forward 2 inches on my 1930 Chevy after lowering it three inches. It didn't look right in the stock position after I lowered it. The extra two inches made a noticable difference in better handling.

roj2323 · 09-12-2004, 10:37 PM

moving the front crossmember forward should in thery be fairly simple but before you go hacking or drilling unbolt the crossmember and slide it forward the 2 in. and clamp it back to the frame. this will give you an oppertunity to test your thery on the clearance issue. turn the wheels all the way to the left and right and if it works then grab your drill but if it doesn't well then just rebolt it in the stock location.

you may in the end waste time but at least you didint waste money.

good luck,
ondrew

fastbagged68 · 09-15-2004, 01:55 AM

I moved mine up, but mine is on a 63 suburban. But i moved mine about an inch. I wanted mine not to be so far back when laid out.

**lolife99** · 09-15-2004, 12:09 PM

Moving the crossmember forward,... means moving the idler arm and the steering box the same amount, (so the pitman arm will work). I'm looking for the same answers. I think slammed67 has the best so far. Also thought of z'ing the frame with an angled cut,... so when the frame goes up, it ALSO goes forward. Just an idea.

grnddwn · 09-15-2004, 12:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lolife99

Moving the crossmember forward,... means moving the idler arm and the steering box the same amount, (so the pitman arm will work). I'm looking for the same answers. I think slammed67 has the best so far. Also thought of z'ing the frame with an angled cut,... so when the frame goes up, it ALSO goes forward. Just an idea.

This is a good solution except you'll be making your truck longer so your front clip will be farther away from your cowl. Personally I would just tub the fire wall.
WZD28SS what size tires are you running?

SCOTI · 10-08-2004, 09:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lolife99

Moving the crossmember forward,... means moving the idler arm and the steering box the same amount, (so the pitman arm will work). I'm looking for the same answers. I think slammed67 has the best so far. Also thought of z'ing the frame with an angled cut,... so when the frame goes up, it ALSO goes forward. Just an idea.

I've been watching these similar threads & lolife99 hit the nail on the head from the calculations I've measured.

When raising the crossmember section 1.5" w/a 'Z' cut, you'll extend the wheelbase :
a 45Â° cut = 1.5"
a 48.75Â° cut = 1.25"
a 56.25Â° cut = 1.00"
a 60Â° cut = .75"

Of course you'll need to cut in front of the steering box @ the same angle to keep everything aligned.

Other benefits . . .....
Wouldn't the headers now not hang below the frame (another option for the high HP guys instead of being forced to run 3/4 length headers)??
Wouldn't you gain more distributor & bellhousing clearance??

Now I know it will have some detrimental effects as well . . .....
Less trans tailshaft to floorpan clearance??
Possible interference w/core support & front of the steering box??

I've been measuring & contemplating this plan for a while. Once my new arms arrive from AirRide, I'll swap to my dropped crossmember & bolt up some fenders on my spare cab/frame to get more detailed measurements. Who knows.....

XXL · 10-08-2004, 10:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Once my new arms arrive from AirRide, I'll swap to my dropped crossmember & bolt up some fenders on my spare cab/frame to get more detailed measurements.

And post lots of pictures...

So does this mean they're taking orders?

SCOTI · 10-08-2004, 10:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by XXL

And post lots of pictures...

So does this mean they're taking orders?

I don't believe so. It was during an inside phone call to AirRides HQ (to harass Tony) that a request was made to send a set un-coated. They said they would go out @ the beginning of this week. I haven't talked w/the guys from the shop today so I don't know if anything arrived or if it was just another stall tactic from AirRide (not that they would intentionally do that).

Hell... we just told them to send 'em w/o even getting a price confirmation. The guys @ the shop told me not to worry.... if I didn't like/want them, they would use them on another truck

.

**lolife99** · 09-15-2004, 02:17 PM

You are moving the crossmember section of the frame only. One cut behind the crossmember and one in front behind the core support to position the front clip in the same location. (Like a body drop mod.)

wdz28ss · 10-07-2004, 10:44 PM

when my truck is at ride height, the tire is centered......so if i was to move the crossmember forward, then at ride height the wheels would be to the front of the wheel opening. re-designing the control arms sounds like a solution, but also sounds like alot of work too!!! .....BTW>> my tires are a 285/35/22

Slammed67 · 10-08-2004, 02:38 PM

Quote:

Moving the crossmember forward,... means moving the idler arm and the steering box the same amount, (so the pitman arm will work). I'm looking for the same answers

True. It's not as simple as drilling new holes and moving the crossmember forward. If it were that easy, I would have done it! All you have to do is look at the steering components and you'll see that it wouldn't be an easy modification. I'm not saying it isn't possible, just difficult.

wdz28ss: Do you have some side shots of your truck to show everyone what you are talking about?

fastbagged68 · 10-09-2004, 02:40 AM

I didn't have to move my idler arm, just through it away. I stuck in a Rack and Pinion.

09-04-2004, 10:09 PM	#1
wdz28ss Registered User Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Clinton, Ut Posts: 230	Moving crossmember forward???? I have been following the drop crosmember thread and I have seen people mention moving the crossmember forward. Well, I have done the crossmember drop and I have 22's on my truck laying frame. Yes, my tires rub the **** out of my firewall. I was thinking about this and I think the real only way to fix this is to notch out the firewall to clearance for the big shoes. Because in theory, right now, at ride height, my wheels are centered in the wheel well. When it airs out, the wheels shift toward the rear. However if I was to move the crossmember forward, and center the wheels when aired out, when it is aired up to ride height, the wheels would be toward the front......I for one would rather it look right when cruising down the road. Is this what everyone talking about moving the crossmember dont care about? Are you looking to look cool when laid out at a show? Or has no one actually moved the crossmember forward and got their fenders on to see this? __________________ '72 Cheyenne super, short-fleet, air-tilt-tach, fuel injected LT1, 700r4, 3.08 posi, 4WDB, step notched and bagged. "the one i wish i still had"

09-05-2004, 11:40 AM	#2
XXL Señor Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: Edge of the world Posts: 5,367	I think the trick is to split the difference. The trucks look like foo from the side when the wheel is 2" back in the wheel opening. Moving the xmember forward to absorb some of that offset is a good idea. Also, the stock KPI is 4° IIRC... some of the aftermarket control arms are building in a total of 2°. This will reduce the amount of rearward slide you get when you dump the truck. __________________ Craigslist \| ebay \| Engrishtees \| www.myattitudesucks.com \| Follow me on Twitter

09-05-2004, 12:52 PM	#3
phantom dually Project92 SWB stepside Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Louisville KY Posts: 4,792	Got Pics? __________________ 92 C1500 stepside 496 Stroker Competiton Engineering Ladder bars/QA1 coilovers. Dana 60 rear with 4.10 gear and posi. Bonspeed Palisade 20x12 in rear w/335/30/20 and 20x8.5 front w/245/40/20. 5/8 drop with Belltech springs/DJM spindles/drop shocks. WWS Progress thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=140448

09-15-2004, 12:14 AM	#10
wdz28ss Registered User Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Clinton, Ut Posts: 230	Just curious as to if anyone actually has done this....seems like somewhere in the dropped crossmember thread, someone had done this... doubtful i will, as tubbin the firewall seems the only way to keep things looking right, however if someone has pictures, this would be interesting to see.. __________________ '72 Cheyenne super, short-fleet, air-tilt-tach, fuel injected LT1, 700r4, 3.08 posi, 4WDB, step notched and bagged. "the one i wish i still had"

09-15-2004, 12:09 PM	#15
lolife99 67-72 parts collector,… Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Mid-MO Posts: 22,700	Moving the crossmember forward,... means moving the idler arm and the steering box the same amount, (so the pitman arm will work). I'm looking for the same answers. I think slammed67 has the best so far. Also thought of z'ing the frame with an angled cut,... so when the frame goes up, it ALSO goes forward. Just an idea. __________________ Keith Convert to disc brakes. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=444823

09-12-2004, 04:25 PM	#4
NO LONGER DISTURBED KONCEPTZ Registered User Join Date: Aug 2004 Posts: 257	Well most ppl would just tub the firewall and leave it at that.

09-12-2004, 10:23 PM	#7
NO LONGER DISTURBED KONCEPTZ Registered User Join Date: Aug 2004 Posts: 257	Well its better then messing up a frame and ur truck.

09-12-2004, 10:37 PM	#13
roj2323 Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Somewhere Posts: 985	moving the front crossmember forward should in thery be fairly simple but before you go hacking or drilling unbolt the crossmember and slide it forward the 2 in. and clamp it back to the frame. this will give you an oppertunity to test your thery on the clearance issue. turn the wheels all the way to the left and right and if it works then grab your drill but if it doesn't well then just rebolt it in the stock location. you may in the end waste time but at least you didint waste money. good luck, ondrew

09-15-2004, 01:55 AM	#14
fastbagged68 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Tri Valley California Posts: 792	I moved mine up, but mine is on a 63 suburban. But i moved mine about an inch. I wanted mine not to be so far back when laid out.

09-15-2004, 02:17 PM	#20
lolife99 67-72 parts collector,… Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Mid-MO Posts: 22,700	You are moving the crossmember section of the frame only. One cut behind the crossmember and one in front behind the core support to position the front clip in the same location. (Like a body drop mod.) __________________ Keith Convert to disc brakes. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=444823

10-07-2004, 10:44 PM	#21
wdz28ss Registered User Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Clinton, Ut Posts: 230	when my truck is at ride height, the tire is centered......so if i was to move the crossmember forward, then at ride height the wheels would be to the front of the wheel opening. re-designing the control arms sounds like a solution, but also sounds like alot of work too!!! .....BTW>> my tires are a 285/35/22 __________________ '72 Cheyenne super, short-fleet, air-tilt-tach, fuel injected LT1, 700r4, 3.08 posi, 4WDB, step notched and bagged. "the one i wish i still had"

10-09-2004, 02:40 AM	#23
fastbagged68 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Tri Valley California Posts: 792	I didn't have to move my idler arm, just through it away. I stuck in a Rack and Pinion.



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