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Old 10-07-2004, 05:35 PM   #1
griesel72
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2wd to 4X4???

I'm wanting to swap a 72 2wd to a 4X4 and wondered if it would be easier to find a pair axles and the transfer case/tranny/drive shafts and crossmember or to just find a rolling chassis and swap the body over?

anyone have a thought on this, or completed this swap?

thanks
david
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Old 10-07-2004, 06:38 PM   #2
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David,
I took a 70 C20 (2wd) and set the bed and cab on a 71 frame. I had to cut the low hump out and bolt in a high hump. I think this way is the easiest. Converting a coil rear truck over to leafs in the rear and adding the front suspension would be challenging for a 1/2 ton. The rear of the frame behind the cab bulges outward and will make the front of the rear springs mount challenging. I seen your WTB post for a rolling chassis and i believe this is the way to go.
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1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX
1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears
1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now.....
1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone.
1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed.

1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm
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Old 10-07-2004, 07:33 PM   #3
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Jim,

Thanks for the advice, my 72 2wd is a factory leaf spring truck, would this make this conversion any easier? I seem to be having a problem finding a rolling chassis that is with in 500 miles of me.

thanks
David
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Old 10-07-2004, 09:02 PM   #4
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I merged the threads.
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Old 10-07-2004, 09:55 PM   #5
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Thanks rod, gotta keep on longhair's good side
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Old 10-08-2004, 04:58 AM   #6
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Isn't there a difference in the front rad mount between the c10 and k10/20s? At the front the frames are the same width and the front spring/rad mount location is the together on the 4wds. At the rear of the front springs I believe the frames are also the same between 2wd and 4wd so you should be able to locate the mount easily. Now your BB is another story, it should be mounted forward in the engine compartment which I believe will not work well w/ the front axle and transfer case, in regards to the front driveshaft will be short. 4wd trucks have the engine mounted back in the engine compartment. I'm not sure how big of a problem that would be. Your steering gear box would have to be changed to the 4wd one ir you could do a cross over steering set-up w/ the 2wd one.
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1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs
1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX
1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears
1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now.....
1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone.
1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed.

1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm
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Old 10-09-2004, 04:01 AM   #7
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David, Are you interested in your old 67 frame and axles??? I think I am going to sell them. I got the 396 tucked away in the shop though :p Did you get your tires to stop rubbing??
Joe
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Old 10-09-2004, 04:32 AM   #8
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rollong chassis

I'm going to have a 2WD to 4X4 conversion frame with axles for sale in a couple of weeks if you're interested.
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Old 10-09-2004, 01:07 PM   #9
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im thinking of doing the same with a 76 c10 griesel so keep me updated with what ya do. how much would a rolling chasis run?
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Old 10-09-2004, 01:18 PM   #10
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Joe- I really want a c10 frame, something about your red 1/2 4X4 inspired me

Zoomy-pm me the details on it, are you going to be making it down to randy's anytime in the future?
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Old 10-09-2004, 01:27 PM   #11
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David, There is a 1/2t 4x4 chassis close to me I have wanted to stop and look at, I will let you know what I find out.
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Old 10-09-2004, 03:32 PM   #12
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Thanks joe, i really wouldn't mind making it back up there to Joe's Salvage for some more parts.

thanks
David
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Old 10-10-2004, 12:15 AM   #13
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teeitup

I have no plans on going to teeitup's, but that's what I said last year too. I'll give you details when I get it home around Oct 22,23..............Z
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Old 10-10-2004, 04:11 PM   #14
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David, I haven't been able to catch any one at the business where the 1/2t 4x4 chassis is. I will let you know if I find out anything. You are more than welcome here anytime!! Just bring some cash with you

Joe
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Old 10-10-2004, 11:08 PM   #15
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I picked up a 76 3/4 4x4 rolling chassis saturday for 150$ dana 44, corporate 14bolt Full floater, NP203 and driveshafts. I think it was a smokin deal myself and i have also picked up complete 4x4 73-79 trucks for 200$ or less. with a little time you can make most if not all of these parts work on a 67-72. This set up is most likely gonna find its way underneath my 68 c-10 CST suburban. I really need it under my work truck but its already built and in daily use.
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Old 10-11-2004, 11:07 PM   #16
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i have a good pair of 4x4 axles for sale...12bolt and d44 w/ 3.73's from a 73 K5 also have a good 203, but you might want to go with a 205.

have the whole thing actully, but the framw is to short for you body.
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Old 10-07-2004, 07:21 PM   #17
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Please do not double post the same question in different places.
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Old 10-07-2004, 07:58 PM   #18
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David, although any way you slice that kind of project it will be a little time consuming, putting a 2wd body on a 4x4 frame would be easier overall. That way the only fabrication you might have to do is on the cab floor. Just my 2 cents.
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Old 10-07-2004, 08:29 PM   #19
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Adam, i am beginning to think the same way, better yet, my truck is a factory big block truck, so already has the unboltable hump. Am i better off holding out for a 71-72 roller, or buying a dirt cheap 68-70 frame and running gear and slapping in a disk brake 44 out of a later model truck (73-??)

thanks
David
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Old 10-07-2004, 08:44 PM   #20
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If you could get a dirt cheap 68-70 frame that would be the best, unless you found a dirt cheap 71-72! Although you should add up price, if the older frame + dana 44 is more expensive than a 72, just go for the newer one.
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