Power Windows? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

useRc10 · 12-04-2004, 01:33 AM

The power windows in my Blazer need some help. They are really slow and jerky. Sometimes they get stuck and i have to pull on them to get it up to the next notch. Anyone know how hard it is to fix this? Do these trucks have the plastic band that you can buy in the Help! Section? It seems like it may have a few worn out gears or something.
Any help?Also, how hard is it to get to the motor (how much do I have to take apart?)

Thanks, -Nick

cliffsta · 12-04-2004, 03:11 AM

not TOO hard to get to the motor, should take the door panel off and it is somewhere up in the door shell. Getting the panel off is probably the hardest thing.

blaserman · 12-04-2004, 05:06 AM

The Motor Is A Pain In The A_ _. The Regulator Is Loaded And If It Is Not Done Right The Spring Will Come Out Very Fast And Hard. I Took Mine To A Body Shop And They Charged Me $50.00 To Replace It. If You Are Going To Replace It Yourself Be Very Carefull Doing It.

bigblock73 · 12-04-2004, 10:25 AM

This may help some...

http://www.73-87.com/7387garage/interior/winmotor.htm

useRc10 · 12-04-2004, 10:26 AM

well, i dont know that its the motor...i was hoping someone else had jerky windows and could let me know the actual problem

**N2TRUX** · 12-04-2004, 10:30 AM

There are a lot of problems with power windows in these trucks. Some of it is from under powered motors. Some is caused by the glass being curved. Take a look at you window felt at see what condition it is in. Try spray a bit of silicone along the channel felt and see if that helps...

piecesparts · 12-05-2004, 12:27 AM

#1 take the inner door panel off,
#2 roll the window all the way up
#3 put a heavy wire or plumbers metal under the track on the window, I used metal in a hook shape and then hung it over the door top metal and shot a #7 zip screw into it.
#4 take all of the screws out of the window regulator and the linkage that holds it to the door, then work the rollers out of the tracks on the window and door inner metal.
#5 pull the whole setup out of the door, you may have to bump the motor a couple times to align the linkage to go out the hole.
#6 drill a 1/4" hole through the gear assembly and the frame of the regulator.
#7 put a bolt in the hole and tighten it up, this will hold the spring in position and keep it from killing you and all that are watching. Nothing else has to be done to keep the assembly together.
#7 take the three screws out of the motor and take motor off of the regulator frame. It has a small gear to meshes into the drive on the window gear.
#8 get new motor, I have a slavage yard that is local that has a number of them in boxes that fit numerous GM cars. Use what you need from the kit.
#9 mount motor with screws
#10 take bolt out of hole
#11 reinstall regulator assembly in door
#12 grease the tracks of the windo and door slides real well
#13 take metal or heavy wire out from under the window track.
#14 lube the window felt track (the ones that the window goes up and down in) with some siliicone spray lubricant, that stuff has a tendency to dry out.
#15 test window.

EASY, the hardest part is finding a motor at a reasonable price.

clean all of the plug prongs for a good connection.

useRc10 · 12-05-2004, 01:24 AM

so, you all think its the motor? i know advance and auto zone have them for about $45...

Slonaker · 12-05-2004, 07:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by useRc10

so, you all think its the motor? i know advance and auto zone have them for about $45...

I seem to recall Swervin saying that he had to buy new GM motors, that the parts store rebuilds didn't fix the problem. Maybe send him a private message?

Slonaker

weekender · 12-05-2004, 06:43 PM

Do yourself a favor, stay away from auto zone.

a28doc · 12-05-2004, 07:22 PM

I had the same problem with mine in my 86 blazer and the motors get worn out pretty easy. and yes they are a pain in the butt to replace be very careful if you do it yourself make sure you prop the glass really well when you do it cause if not when the glass falls it may break not to mention the regulator gear will cut your fingers to shreds just ask me I know from exp lol good luck Doc

useRc10 · 12-06-2004, 12:39 AM

i was hoping it was something easier....guess i'll visit the dealer

Slonaker · 12-06-2004, 10:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by useRc10

i was hoping it was something easier....guess i'll visit the dealer

Don't spend money based on my poor old memory...I don't even have power windows in my Silverado. I'm hoping someone who went throgh this a while back will chime in with their experiences.

Slonaker

Mike76251 · 12-06-2004, 05:45 AM

Good luck with General,
I bought 4 in the last 5 years from GM and they didn't last no time.

piecesparts · 12-06-2004, 11:25 AM

As I said before, the changeout is not hard. It is time consuming though. You have to take the door panel off and support the window, the rest is relatively easy. I usually go to a junk yard and practice on an old truck before I get into my truck (on something that I haven't done before) The motor is part of your problem, the window track felt is the other. It gets pretty dry and the glass drags in it. The changout of the felt is also easy and it can be done while you are doing this project. I would also change out the piece (glass wiper) that rubs along the outside of your window at this time. That way everything is flexible and will allow the window to move easier. The window felt is just held in by pin clips in the back at the top and upper corner, otherwise it fits into a track and will slide along it (use silsicone lube to assist). Changing the window switches may help, but in most cases are not the problem. I have done a few doors in my time, the switches get worn and loose, but the contacts are greased and usually don't cause problems.

useRc10 · 12-06-2004, 12:01 PM

i'm going to put silicon on the felt and blade and if that doesnt help, i'll move onto the motors...just have to find the time

12-06-2004, 12:01 PM	#16
useRc10 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Mechanicsville, VA, 23111 Posts: 1,138	i'm going to put silicon on the felt and blade and if that doesnt help, i'll move onto the motors...just have to find the time __________________ -'02 Chevy Avalanche, 5.3L, 4x4... needing a small lift and bigger tires -'72 Chevy C-10(350, bored 60 over)dual flowmasters, 3 on the tree -'85 K5 Blazer,305 NO MORE...350 is in,2" lift,33" Mickey Thompson Baja Claw Radials -dads '70 burb (red, 5-7 drop, 350...) www.geocities.com/userc10/truckhome.html AIM: Auntjoedadda

12-04-2004, 01:33 AM	#1
useRc10 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Mechanicsville, VA, 23111 Posts: 1,138	Power Windows? The power windows in my Blazer need some help. They are really slow and jerky. Sometimes they get stuck and i have to pull on them to get it up to the next notch. Anyone know how hard it is to fix this? Do these trucks have the plastic band that you can buy in the Help! Section? It seems like it may have a few worn out gears or something. Any help?Also, how hard is it to get to the motor (how much do I have to take apart?) Thanks, -Nick __________________ -'02 Chevy Avalanche, 5.3L, 4x4... needing a small lift and bigger tires -'72 Chevy C-10(350, bored 60 over)dual flowmasters, 3 on the tree -'85 K5 Blazer,305 NO MORE...350 is in,2" lift,33" Mickey Thompson Baja Claw Radials -dads '70 burb (red, 5-7 drop, 350...) www.geocities.com/userc10/truckhome.html AIM: Auntjoedadda

12-04-2004, 03:11 AM	#2
cliffsta Stepsides RULE Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Pineville, LA Posts: 1,921	not TOO hard to get to the motor, should take the door panel off and it is somewhere up in the door shell. Getting the panel off is probably the hardest thing. __________________ 1981 Chevy C10 Custom Deluxe Stepside 350 V8, headers, side exhausts, 3-speed auto SOLD 1980 Chevy C10 Custum Deluxe Stepside 305 V8, Edelbrock Performer Intake, Edelbrock 1406 600CFM 4-barrel, TH350C. Bent rod. SOLD 1984 GMC Sierra Classic Longbed 6.2L Diesel SOLD 2009 Kawasaki KLX-250S too many mods for this signature 1999 Honda Accord EX 4-cylinder, 17" Motegi Wheels 215/45/17 Sumitomo tires, Tein S-Tech lowering springs, KYB GR2 shocks, Acura TL 20mm rear swaybar, debadged, blackhoused headlights, Short-Ram Intake Cardomain of the Accord

12-04-2004, 05:06 AM	#3
blaserman Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: glen burnie md Posts: 447	The Motor Is A Pain In The A_ _. The Regulator Is Loaded And If It Is Not Done Right The Spring Will Come Out Very Fast And Hard. I Took Mine To A Body Shop And They Charged Me $50.00 To Replace It. If You Are Going To Replace It Yourself Be Very Carefull Doing It.

12-04-2004, 10:25 AM	#4
bigblock73 yeller Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Twin Cities Posts: 13,824	This may help some... http://www.73-87.com/7387garage/interior/winmotor.htm __________________ Jeff 73-87.com 73-87.com Facebook page 73-87 cab corner 6x9 speaker brackets for sale 67-72 cab corner speaker brackets for sale 47-54 cab corner speaker brackets for sale

12-04-2004, 10:26 AM	#5
useRc10 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Mechanicsville, VA, 23111 Posts: 1,138	well, i dont know that its the motor...i was hoping someone else had jerky windows and could let me know the actual problem __________________ -'02 Chevy Avalanche, 5.3L, 4x4... needing a small lift and bigger tires -'72 Chevy C-10(350, bored 60 over)dual flowmasters, 3 on the tree -'85 K5 Blazer,305 NO MORE...350 is in,2" lift,33" Mickey Thompson Baja Claw Radials -dads '70 burb (red, 5-7 drop, 350...) www.geocities.com/userc10/truckhome.html AIM: Auntjoedadda

12-04-2004, 10:30 AM	#6
N2TRUX Happy to be here Join Date: Mar 2000 Location: Cypress, TX Posts: 39,021	There are a lot of problems with power windows in these trucks. Some of it is from under powered motors. Some is caused by the glass being curved. Take a look at you window felt at see what condition it is in. Try spray a bit of silicone along the channel felt and see if that helps... __________________ Follow me on Facebook and Instagram @N2trux.com Articles- "Jake" the 84 to 74 crewcab "Elwood" the77_Remix 85 GMC Sierra "Scarlett" "Refining Sierra"

12-05-2004, 12:27 AM	#7
piecesparts Parts and more parts Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Lebo, Kansas (middle of nowhere Posts: 6,821	#1 take the inner door panel off, #2 roll the window all the way up #3 put a heavy wire or plumbers metal under the track on the window, I used metal in a hook shape and then hung it over the door top metal and shot a #7 zip screw into it. #4 take all of the screws out of the window regulator and the linkage that holds it to the door, then work the rollers out of the tracks on the window and door inner metal. #5 pull the whole setup out of the door, you may have to bump the motor a couple times to align the linkage to go out the hole. #6 drill a 1/4" hole through the gear assembly and the frame of the regulator. #7 put a bolt in the hole and tighten it up, this will hold the spring in position and keep it from killing you and all that are watching. Nothing else has to be done to keep the assembly together. #7 take the three screws out of the motor and take motor off of the regulator frame. It has a small gear to meshes into the drive on the window gear. #8 get new motor, I have a slavage yard that is local that has a number of them in boxes that fit numerous GM cars. Use what you need from the kit. #9 mount motor with screws #10 take bolt out of hole #11 reinstall regulator assembly in door #12 grease the tracks of the windo and door slides real well #13 take metal or heavy wire out from under the window track. #14 lube the window felt track (the ones that the window goes up and down in) with some siliicone spray lubricant, that stuff has a tendency to dry out. #15 test window. EASY, the hardest part is finding a motor at a reasonable price. clean all of the plug prongs for a good connection. Last edited by piecesparts; 12-05-2004 at 12:30 AM.

12-05-2004, 01:24 AM	#8
useRc10 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Mechanicsville, VA, 23111 Posts: 1,138	so, you all think its the motor? i know advance and auto zone have them for about $45... __________________ -'02 Chevy Avalanche, 5.3L, 4x4... needing a small lift and bigger tires -'72 Chevy C-10(350, bored 60 over)dual flowmasters, 3 on the tree -'85 K5 Blazer,305 NO MORE...350 is in,2" lift,33" Mickey Thompson Baja Claw Radials -dads '70 burb (red, 5-7 drop, 350...) www.geocities.com/userc10/truckhome.html AIM: Auntjoedadda

12-05-2004, 06:43 PM	#10
weekender Registered User Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Jewett Illinois Posts: 32	Do yourself a favor, stay away from auto zone.

12-05-2004, 07:22 PM	#11
a28doc '87 V20 4x4 Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: South Western Ohio Posts: 1,073	I had the same problem with mine in my 86 blazer and the motors get worn out pretty easy. and yes they are a pain in the butt to replace be very careful if you do it yourself make sure you prop the glass really well when you do it cause if not when the glass falls it may break not to mention the regulator gear will cut your fingers to shreds just ask me I know from exp lol good luck Doc __________________ '86 K5 Blazer 4x4 FOR SALE '87 v20 4X4 '99 S10 Blazer 4X4



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12-06-2004, 12:39 AM	#12
useRc10 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Mechanicsville, VA, 23111 Posts: 1,138	i was hoping it was something easier....guess i'll visit the dealer __________________ -'02 Chevy Avalanche, 5.3L, 4x4... needing a small lift and bigger tires -'72 Chevy C-10(350, bored 60 over)dual flowmasters, 3 on the tree -'85 K5 Blazer,305 NO MORE...350 is in,2" lift,33" Mickey Thompson Baja Claw Radials -dads '70 burb (red, 5-7 drop, 350...) www.geocities.com/userc10/truckhome.html AIM: Auntjoedadda

12-06-2004, 05:45 AM	#14
Mike76251 Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Posts: 2,499	Good luck with General, I bought 4 in the last 5 years from GM and they didn't last no time.

12-06-2004, 11:25 AM	#15
piecesparts Parts and more parts Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Lebo, Kansas (middle of nowhere Posts: 6,821	As I said before, the changeout is not hard. It is time consuming though. You have to take the door panel off and support the window, the rest is relatively easy. I usually go to a junk yard and practice on an old truck before I get into my truck (on something that I haven't done before) The motor is part of your problem, the window track felt is the other. It gets pretty dry and the glass drags in it. The changout of the felt is also easy and it can be done while you are doing this project. I would also change out the piece (glass wiper) that rubs along the outside of your window at this time. That way everything is flexible and will allow the window to move easier. The window felt is just held in by pin clips in the back at the top and upper corner, otherwise it fits into a track and will slide along it (use silsicone lube to assist). Changing the window switches may help, but in most cases are not the problem. I have done a few doors in my time, the switches get worn and loose, but the contacts are greased and usually don't cause problems. Last edited by piecesparts; 12-06-2004 at 11:28 AM.

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