Shaved side modings - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

muddpile · 12-24-2004, 01:52 PM

When I do the paint and body on my 72 custom deluxe, I want to shave the lower and likely upper moldings on the sides. I'm not a big fan of the woodgrain look of the bottom one, and the top one is so beat up that it is hard to tell if it had woodgrain or not (most sections are missing too). My Question is this: How much work is it to shave these side moldings? Just peel em off, fill the screwholes, and paint? It looks that easy but I'd like to get a few opinions before I touch it. Thanks!

70short · 12-24-2004, 02:33 PM

Me and A friend of mine are in the process of doing mine. I cut up A bunch of steel patch's about 3/4" square. Then while I position them on the back side of the panel my friend MIG welds them on while filling then grind and bondo as required. I like the shaved look. Both look good I just prefer the shaved look.

Gary

Tx Firefighter · 12-24-2004, 03:14 PM

I just weld them up without putting the backing patch like 70short is doing.

muddpile · 12-24-2004, 03:59 PM

Either method sounds pretty easy, so I think I will go ahead and shave it. I guess all I have to do to take the old stuff off is remove the few pieces and clips that are actually left. Over the years I think it has been partially parted out.

purple gas · 12-25-2004, 12:52 PM

I'm no welder, but I think I read if you use a piece of copper ( flattend piece of pipe) and hold that behind your holes when you weld 'em up that the weld don't stick to the copper & you don't have anything behind there to catch dirt & stuff to cause future rust. Also no little pointy pieces to scratch yer arm if you have to reach something up inside. As with everything I say, I'd get a second opinion.

12-24-2004, 01:52 PM	#1
muddpile Registered User Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Saskatchewan, Canada Posts: 1,371	Shaved side modings When I do the paint and body on my 72 custom deluxe, I want to shave the lower and likely upper moldings on the sides. I'm not a big fan of the woodgrain look of the bottom one, and the top one is so beat up that it is hard to tell if it had woodgrain or not (most sections are missing too). My Question is this: How much work is it to shave these side moldings? Just peel em off, fill the screwholes, and paint? It looks that easy but I'd like to get a few opinions before I touch it. Thanks! __________________ 1964 Chevy Short Fleet: Tornado 1972 Chevy C10: Fast Orange Secondaries Wide Open

12-24-2004, 02:33 PM	#2
70short Registered User Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Boise ID Posts: 609	Me and A friend of mine are in the process of doing mine. I cut up A bunch of steel patch's about 3/4" square. Then while I position them on the back side of the panel my friend MIG welds them on while filling then grind and bondo as required. I like the shaved look. Both look good I just prefer the shaved look. Gary __________________ "72" Red CORVETTE 4-speed 350 "70" Chevy Short Bed early stages of resto. Edel 600 cfm carb Weiand Stealth Intake HEI shorty Headers 4/2 Drop 295 50R 15 TOYO on 10 inch wide corvette rally rims at all 4 corners. "CHEVY RULES"

12-24-2004, 03:14 PM	#3
Tx Firefighter Watch out for your cornhole ! Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Azle, Texas Posts: 14,162	I just weld them up without putting the backing patch like 70short is doing. __________________ I'm on the Instagram- @Gearhead_Kevin

12-24-2004, 03:59 PM	#4
muddpile Registered User Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Saskatchewan, Canada Posts: 1,371	Either method sounds pretty easy, so I think I will go ahead and shave it. I guess all I have to do to take the old stuff off is remove the few pieces and clips that are actually left. Over the years I think it has been partially parted out. __________________ 1964 Chevy Short Fleet: Tornado 1972 Chevy C10: Fast Orange Secondaries Wide Open

12-25-2004, 12:52 PM	#5
purple gas Registered User Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: saskatoon, planet earth Posts: 696	I'm no welder, but I think I read if you use a piece of copper ( flattend piece of pipe) and hold that behind your holes when you weld 'em up that the weld don't stick to the copper & you don't have anything behind there to catch dirt & stuff to cause future rust. Also no little pointy pieces to scratch yer arm if you have to reach something up inside. As with everything I say, I'd get a second opinion.



Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.