Register or Log In To remove these advertisements. |
|
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
02-11-2005, 11:46 AM | #1 |
OBS guy
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,060
|
Ok guys, Dagburn steering arm removal...
I have only done this once before on my 82, and it was a PAIN- I think it took me about 6 hours just to get the arm off. I have a Chilton manual and factory service manual for the 71, and they give NO help to remove the factory steering arm (part that attaches to the driver side knuckle)
Anyone who has lifted their truck know what I am talking about. It's those dang conical locking nuts... I would sure like to hear how you guys coerced your steering arms off. I can't get any type of puller down there either. It will be soaking in liquid wrench all day, any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
__________________
88 Suburban Goodies- Alpine, Auto Meter, BDS, Bilstein, B&M, BFG, Borgeson, Bushwhacker, Cowl hood, Flowmaster, Genuine Gear, Holley, Infinity, JVC, K&N, MB Wheels, MSD, Pioneer, Skyjacker, Sony, Thorley, Walker + more |
02-11-2005, 12:05 PM | #2 |
It followed me home?
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Yup
Posts: 5,751
|
BFH. There are some numbers stamped on the arm on the opposite side of where the studs/washers are, pound on those numbers and it will start to loosen up right away. You might try loosening the bolts 1/2 way and driving around the block too. Good luck
__________________
Adam That's why they call it a shortcut Kyle, if it was easy it would just be the way. 86 c-10 SWB 85 CCSB 90 GMC K30 Crew SRW 1985 C30 Dually |
02-11-2005, 01:15 PM | #3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: houston, texas
Posts: 1,974
|
If its a true CA truck it shouldnt be too bad. Spray some lubricant and let soak then like cochino stated, beat down on it, not up...this should free up the conical washers.
__________________
2008 Silverado Z71 RCSB 1991 GMC Jimmy 4x4 1976 GMC Sierra C15 SWB |
02-11-2005, 01:47 PM | #4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Clarks Hill, Indiana
Posts: 733
|
I have similar conical washers/nuts on my closed knuckle, and i had a friend beating the side with a hammer, while I wiggled it up and down (with the help of a pry bar & 2 screw drivers). Didn't ever put a lot of force on anything, but kept constant pressure pushing up while he hammered...
Good luck
__________________
1969 K10 - V8, 465, 205, 12 bolt, D44 2002-current 1969 K20 - V8, 465, 221, Eaton, D44 2012-current Nothin' but drums on all 4 corners! past horses in the stable 72 C10-short step (97-02), 68 C10-long fleet (06-12) |
02-11-2005, 01:48 PM | #5 |
user # 2756
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Chesapeake, Virginia
Posts: 4,612
|
budweis posted some good pics of where to strike. I had to heat mine up w/ a propane torch and use a BFH to get mine off.
__________________
1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm |
02-11-2005, 02:02 PM | #6 |
OBS guy
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,060
|
Any ideas on where to get new conical washers? I am striking out on sourcing some new ones.
Thanks for the good pointers.
__________________
88 Suburban Goodies- Alpine, Auto Meter, BDS, Bilstein, B&M, BFG, Borgeson, Bushwhacker, Cowl hood, Flowmaster, Genuine Gear, Holley, Infinity, JVC, K&N, MB Wheels, MSD, Pioneer, Skyjacker, Sony, Thorley, Walker + more |
02-11-2005, 08:34 PM | #7 |
user # 2756
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Chesapeake, Virginia
Posts: 4,612
|
www.shakerbuilt.com sells them. Your new steering arm should have come with them. But then again it could have used.
__________________
1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm |
02-12-2005, 10:37 AM | #8 |
Post Whore
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Rose Hill, KS, USA
Posts: 12,686
|
The one I pulled from my 70 K5 came right off, the one I pulled of the 78 K20 that is going in the K5 was really stuck. Heat didn't help and penetrant didn't help either. I ended up having to get a large sledge hammer as the BFH wasn't enough. Bent the heck out of the studs and they are rather expensive.
__________________
1970 Blazer with a 400 sbc and 4" lift 1980 Pontiac Trans Am, 455 Oldsmobile 2012 Kawasaki Concours 14 |
02-12-2005, 10:39 AM | #9 |
OBS guy
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,060
|
d'oh! Don't want to do that... Probably cheaper just to find a used spindle then replace those studs,eh?
__________________
88 Suburban Goodies- Alpine, Auto Meter, BDS, Bilstein, B&M, BFG, Borgeson, Bushwhacker, Cowl hood, Flowmaster, Genuine Gear, Holley, Infinity, JVC, K&N, MB Wheels, MSD, Pioneer, Skyjacker, Sony, Thorley, Walker + more |
02-14-2005, 01:09 PM | #10 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: SE Michigan
Posts: 73
|
Just did mine last weekend. 25-year-old Michigan truck. Took about an hour with an oxy/acetylene torch and a sledge.
Once you get the washers broken free, you can wiggle them around with a pair of vise-grips and pull them out. Learn from my mistakes: leave the nuts at the top of the studs. If you miss the arm with the BFH and whack the studs, it will protect the threads.
__________________
~Kane USMC NRA GWRRA AMA Remember: Except for Slavery, Fascism, Nazism, Totalitarianism and Theocracies, WAR HAS NEVER SOLVED ANYTHING! Last edited by goldwing2000; 02-14-2005 at 01:11 PM. |
02-15-2005, 12:40 PM | #11 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: san diego, ca
Posts: 546
|
I just soaked it with Aero-Kroil and beat it with a big ball peen. I had to beat on it for a good 10 Minutes. I think a sledge is to big. A good 48 oz ball peen is large enough to break it loose but not bend the studs. If you have replacement cone washers you can try turning them with a punch or cold chisel, there is a slot in them if you can catch the edge sometimes they will come out.
__________________
'70 K-20 San Diego, CA |
02-15-2005, 01:27 PM | #12 |
OBS guy
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,060
|
Hey, local labor, now that's what I am talking about! Say, what are you doing this weekend?
I just go out for about 5 minutes a day, wail on the arm with a sledge, spray with more liquid wrench and walk away. Good thing I am not in a rush, eh? I am not built to handle the frustration of constantly attacking a non moving object; I have to pace myself just so I can enjoy the work and not resent it.
__________________
88 Suburban Goodies- Alpine, Auto Meter, BDS, Bilstein, B&M, BFG, Borgeson, Bushwhacker, Cowl hood, Flowmaster, Genuine Gear, Holley, Infinity, JVC, K&N, MB Wheels, MSD, Pioneer, Skyjacker, Sony, Thorley, Walker + more |
02-17-2005, 12:26 PM | #13 |
OBS guy
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,060
|
Still don't have the arm off... About 15 minutes a day trying. Heat, hammering to hell and nothing... 2 more options- Gonna get a BIG sledge tonight and go for it once more; if not, I figure it's time to do ball joints (was hoping to wait, but since they are 34 years old, what the heck?), so I will just pop the spindles off and wrangle it off from the shop vice.
__________________
88 Suburban Goodies- Alpine, Auto Meter, BDS, Bilstein, B&M, BFG, Borgeson, Bushwhacker, Cowl hood, Flowmaster, Genuine Gear, Holley, Infinity, JVC, K&N, MB Wheels, MSD, Pioneer, Skyjacker, Sony, Thorley, Walker + more |
02-17-2005, 01:40 PM | #14 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: taylorsville, UT
Posts: 778
|
heat, smack, wiggle the conical washers out (spin them around the stud with a screwdriver and hammer) whack again. Be patient, and good luck with it in a vise it will only make it harder.
Next person to install a lift should do a write up on this and have a mod "stickie" it.
__________________
2011 CCSB GMC 2500HD DMAX 73 GMC 3/4 ton 4x4 96 Chevy 1500 STD Cab Shortbed Z71 Owner of WickedWolfRC.com |
02-17-2005, 02:05 PM | #15 |
OBS guy
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,060
|
Boy I wish I could get those conical washers to move...
I know it will come off, and there will be celebration. This is starting to hold my whole project up.
__________________
88 Suburban Goodies- Alpine, Auto Meter, BDS, Bilstein, B&M, BFG, Borgeson, Bushwhacker, Cowl hood, Flowmaster, Genuine Gear, Holley, Infinity, JVC, K&N, MB Wheels, MSD, Pioneer, Skyjacker, Sony, Thorley, Walker + more |
02-17-2005, 07:08 PM | #16 |
'71 Chevy Blazer
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: San Leandro, CA (near Oakland)
Posts: 96
|
sounds like you've gotten plenty of good advice but i'll put in my 2 cents about my experience with these. i wedged a 6' prybar under mine and gave steady pressure up while my cousin banged on the top of the arm with a big hammer. we had it off in about 10 minutes... good luck.
__________________
'71 K5 Blazer (new project / daily driver) "If you are not working to improve the situation, you have no business complaining" |
02-17-2005, 08:10 PM | #17 |
OBS guy
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,060
|
Guys, funny story-
So, I am really beating those conical washers up pretty good. So, I thought I should go ahead and order more. Went to the local Chevy Stealer- Took forever to research, finally got a part #, and not a single one in San Diego. Stealer wanted $15.55 a WASHER! Found a small operation in Auburn, CA that sold me the genuine GM parts for $3/piece!!! So, including shipping I am getting all three for the cost of one from the dealer, and he has them in stock. He doesn't have a whole lot of inventory, but he has what counts! http://www.partsmikeparts.com/index.htm
__________________
88 Suburban Goodies- Alpine, Auto Meter, BDS, Bilstein, B&M, BFG, Borgeson, Bushwhacker, Cowl hood, Flowmaster, Genuine Gear, Holley, Infinity, JVC, K&N, MB Wheels, MSD, Pioneer, Skyjacker, Sony, Thorley, Walker + more |
02-17-2005, 09:32 PM | #18 |
user # 2756
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Chesapeake, Virginia
Posts: 4,612
|
parts mike is the way to go!
__________________
1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm |
02-18-2005, 02:09 PM | #19 |
OBS guy
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,060
|
Ok, I'm done now... Not for the better though. Now, my neighbor and I are both gearheads and have spent countless hours in the garage. After a marathon attempt last night, we still came up short-
I am talking 15lb 3' sledge, 2 built 250lb dudes, MAPP torch, air chisel, 4' prybar, cutting discs, etc. 2 hours- thing did not BUDGE. Thing was smoldering it was so hot. Totally f'd up the upper ball joint due to the heat, no biggie- gotta replace anyways. Gonna pull the hub assy off, get the backing plate off and literally cut 1/2 of the steering arm off. Gonna have to do new studs, but ah well, I am done playing here. What other choice do I have? Guess I could rent an oxy/acetylene torch too...
__________________
88 Suburban Goodies- Alpine, Auto Meter, BDS, Bilstein, B&M, BFG, Borgeson, Bushwhacker, Cowl hood, Flowmaster, Genuine Gear, Holley, Infinity, JVC, K&N, MB Wheels, MSD, Pioneer, Skyjacker, Sony, Thorley, Walker + more |
03-03-2005, 08:08 PM | #20 |
OBS guy
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,060
|
Update--- pretty funny... or sad
Took off the entire knuckle with the steering arm still attached to a good machine shop. Said they could NOT get the arm off- they had to cut the arm off, and are going to have to replace the studs. So it wasn't just me at least!
__________________
88 Suburban Goodies- Alpine, Auto Meter, BDS, Bilstein, B&M, BFG, Borgeson, Bushwhacker, Cowl hood, Flowmaster, Genuine Gear, Holley, Infinity, JVC, K&N, MB Wheels, MSD, Pioneer, Skyjacker, Sony, Thorley, Walker + more |
03-03-2005, 08:50 PM | #21 |
user # 2756
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Chesapeake, Virginia
Posts: 4,612
|
That sucks, go to partsmike to get some new studs if the shop does not have them. Don't use bolts! I thought mine was bad, heating it up with a propane torch and hitting it with a hammer did it after about 30 minutes.
__________________
1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm |
03-03-2005, 08:58 PM | #22 |
OBS guy
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,060
|
Already have partsmikeparts studs, conical washers and locknuts! Thanks!
Mike was a nice guy to work with!
__________________
88 Suburban Goodies- Alpine, Auto Meter, BDS, Bilstein, B&M, BFG, Borgeson, Bushwhacker, Cowl hood, Flowmaster, Genuine Gear, Holley, Infinity, JVC, K&N, MB Wheels, MSD, Pioneer, Skyjacker, Sony, Thorley, Walker + more |
03-03-2005, 11:28 PM | #23 |
WTB this ad
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Lafayette Georgia
Posts: 5,074
|
Conical washer removal
When I put the lift kit on my K10 I was also amazed by the stubborness of the conical washer. I paid a mechanic $10 to change my arm and he did it in less than 10 min. He took a deep socket that was larger than the diameter of the washer and put it on top of the arm. It took just one or two hits with a BFH for the washer to just pop up out of the arm. I guess this is kind of like using two hammers to remove a steering wheel. Place one on the loosened nut in the center and strike it with the other. The "shock" makes the part come loose. I haven't had a need to try this again but somebody please give it a shot and let us know if it works for you.
|
03-03-2005, 11:51 PM | #24 |
GO VOLS!
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 724
|
Tried it all.....ended up cutting the d@mn thing off. After 6 hours I was fairly ticked off at it Had a new one anyway but still hated to destroy a perfectly good part. One of the boardmembers in CA sent me a couple conical washers free of charge. Great people on here!
__________________
http://1972blazer.shutterfly.com/<= blazer build pics It's called golf because all the other four letter words were taken. It's easier to ask for forgiveness than for permission. |
03-04-2005, 08:02 PM | #25 |
OBS guy
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,060
|
Moral of the story... If anyone is considering installing a steering arm, JUST DO A DROP DRAG LINK! A drop drag link runs for about $150 shipped.
In the end, I had to pay a machine shop $90 to remove the arm and replace all 3 studs, The new steering arm hardware (studs, washers, nuts) cost me $30, the drag link ends were about $50 and the sleeve was about $12. Oh, and the machine shop guys were in utter disbelief about how hard it was to get off. MACHINE SHOP GUYS! So, I ending up being out $182, and on top of that hours of frustration and angst, busted knuckles and dirty. If you ever hear anyone wanting to do a steering arm, just fwd them to this link, and from one friend to another stop the madness. If it's been on there for 34+ years, chances are it's not coming off without an epic fight. DRAG LINK DRAG LINK DRAG LINK!!! I can't stress this enough.
__________________
88 Suburban Goodies- Alpine, Auto Meter, BDS, Bilstein, B&M, BFG, Borgeson, Bushwhacker, Cowl hood, Flowmaster, Genuine Gear, Holley, Infinity, JVC, K&N, MB Wheels, MSD, Pioneer, Skyjacker, Sony, Thorley, Walker + more |
Bookmarks |
|
|