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05-23-2005, 06:58 PM | #1 |
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Grounding
When I go on trips to the store and the truck is only off for a few minutes and it doesn't have time to cool down it's a coin toss whether or not it’s gonna start again. I put in a remote solenoid, and still have a problem. I'm starting to think I need to beef up the grounding. The ground wire gets really hot and this is definitely a problem. I'm looking for suggestions on how to do it and where to place new grounds if necessary. Or anything else y’all suggest.
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'71 C10 swb 350sb/700r4 |
05-23-2005, 07:14 PM | #2 |
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take the existing grounds apart take sandpaper and make shiney metal to shiney metal contact
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71c-10 350/2004r/4:11 lowered3/4 longbed/dead by hurricane MEANING OF DEATH::::: SOMEBODY ELSE GETS YOUR STUFF DONT BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU THINK TAKE MY ADVISE;I DON'T USE IT ANYWAY |
05-23-2005, 07:44 PM | #3 |
Cantankerous Geezer
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If the ground cable is getting hot, then it's the problem. If you don't have the right cables, GMC Pauls sells a kit with all of them. Cost isn't too bad, cheaper than buying individuals at the parts store.
Cdowns is right, clean the surfaces to bare metal. Assemble with di-electric grease, it helps keep the corrosion out of the joint.
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Fred There is no such thing as too much cam...just not enough engine. |
05-23-2005, 09:15 PM | #4 |
its all about the +6 inches
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Location: Hilliard Ohio
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Also, after cleaning, bolt the neg cable to the block, and have a heavy duty ground strap jumpin the block to the frame. I know GM bolted the Neg cable to the Alt bracket for about 20 years, but I have fixed way too many hard start problems by relocating the ground to a clean spot on the block.
It was probably a way to keep there mechanics working. Look at there constant decline in quality...I may actually be onto something here. |
05-24-2005, 05:00 AM | #5 |
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I had a couple of buddies look at the truck tonight... One of them said try sticking a jumper cable from the neg bat terminal to the engine block. Did that and the truck cranked like a champ. We let the truck warm up and took off the cable and she didn't want to turn over. Right now the neg goes from the bat to the frame and that's it. I really should have my friends of for a few beers more often.
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'71 C10 swb 350sb/700r4 |
05-24-2005, 05:55 AM | #6 |
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Relocate the ground to the block as Andy suggested.
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1968 Chevy 4x4 307 4 speed |
05-24-2005, 09:06 AM | #7 |
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This was one of the first jobs I did after I got the truck way back in '99.
I had the problem of bad starting with my Camaro and changed the ground-cable. I replaced it with a very thick cable, and bolted it directly to the block and frame. Never had a problem since. So when I got the truck I replaced the + cable to the starter, and the ground-cable to the engine block, and the frame. Never regreted it Cya, Edmond
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1971 Chevy C/20 Longhorn, 350/TH400, Edelbrock Performer, IMPCO 425 LPG Carb 1974 Chevy Camaro Z28 (Original) ------------------------- The Netherlands |
05-24-2005, 07:17 PM | #8 |
its all about the +6 inches
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Location: Hilliard Ohio
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If your battery is grounded to the frame, then even with large ground straps, you aren't getting all the power to the starter, becouse the engine isn't grounded very well. In all reality, your engine and tranny probably don't have ground straps anymore since most hill billy back yard mechanics leave them off....and lets face it, most of our trucks had an owner that fits the above description. Your starter grounds to the block, and asuming your engine/tranny aren't crounded, then you are getting a ground from the driveshaft (very partial ground) the shift linkage, anf the throttle linkage/cable...that's about it.
The testing with jumper cables was a good test that one of us shoulda thought of. |
05-25-2005, 10:45 AM | #9 |
Lovin' Life in Miss.!
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Good reading for ya: http://carcraft.com/techarticles/116_0401_elec/
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The truck... you hear that? No really, you did hear that?!!! |
05-25-2005, 05:57 PM | #10 |
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New and added some more ground straps. Works like a charm... Thanx all
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