Crate engine or rebuild 1974 350?

[chevybill]

Hey guys, I am looking at the 260 or 290 horse gm crate engines for my truck and I know where there is about a 1974- ish half ton with a 350 engine and some type of auto tranny.

Should I try to get this engine and possibly tranny for a rebuild or should I just go with a crate engine?

Is this older engine better as far as the head and block than the new engine?

This truck has not ran in at least 15 years and of course the block and heads could be cracked, if they are good is this early 70's engine and tranny worth the trouble, I know they are original to this truck.

How does the old saginaw 3 speed tranny work with these engines, I have 3.73 gears and feel like I am going to be running some serious rpm's at highway speeds.

Thanks for your replies.

[68Stepbed]

For the money, i would go with a crate motor. I have the 260 horse engine in my truck. 3yr./50,000 mile warranty for $1600. That's hard to beat. You'll get better rpm's out of the manual tranny than an auto. Mine runs 3200 rpm at 70 mph with a TH350. I would look for a 700R4 tranny.

Unless you have a good machine shop that you REALLY trust, go with a crate engine or Jasper engines are pretty good too. I think you can get the 300 horse engine with the good warranty.

[chevybill]

55 views, and only one comment?

everyone must have the lockjaw

thanks for the one reply, much appreciated.

[GMC AMI]

Originally Posted by chevybill

55 views, and only one comment?

everyone must have the lockjaw

thanks for the one reply, much appreciated.

Don't you mean LOCKFINGER?

Opps, go with the crate motor unless 71 or older. Back then they were real motors. 74's were not anything special.

[mocwon]

Originally Posted by 68Stepbed

For the money, i would go with a crate motor. I have the 260 horse engine in my truck. 3yr./50,000 mile warranty for $1600. That's hard to beat. You'll get better rpm's out of the manual tranny than an auto. Mine runs 3200 rpm at 70 mph with a TH350. I would look for a 700R4 tranny.

Unless you have a good machine shop that you REALLY trust, go with a crate engine or Jasper engines are pretty good too. I think you can get the 300 horse engine with the good warranty.

I have the same crate with a 700R4.

[panhandler62]

A 74 vintage 350 is going to have crapola heads on it and will have very low static compression. Early smog heads are a mess both for efficiency and performance. The low static compression may or may not be an issue -- really depends on if you intend to add compression to the intake.

Go with the crate and, if you plan to live on the highway a lot -- either replace the trans or find an overdrive unit for the puppy.

[JDL]

The crate engines will be cheper and have a warranty. The 74 will be a stronger block and heads but thay will not flow as good as (some) of the new style of heads. if you rebild it your self you have no warranty. But if you have a shop bild it thay will give you some sort warranty. For a good long lasting engine you will need new pistons, all new bolts, cam, lifters,and berrings. Pluss turning the crank and balancing. And boring the block. and more.

[StingRay]

It kind of depends what you want. I just went through my smallblock and spent about 4 grand Canadian. That got my block decked, bored, torque plate honed, line bored, crank ground and recip assy balanced, heads milled and rebuilt. I got new hypereutectic pistons and all other consumable parts. This also inclued a new 2101 Performer as the old one while salvageable was getting a bit too corroded around the flanges at the water passages. It also includes a set of Comp Cams roller tiped rockers and a true roller chain set. I then spent alot of time cleaning painting, detailing and assembling everything just the way I like. I even had some parts powdercoated. My engine is built mild but is capable with a bigger cam and a bit better heads of being a real screamer. In the short run it is a very strong performer and is great for day to day driving and towing. As said my warranty is me.

Had I chosen a crate motor I could have had more power for the same or less money and a warranty to boot. I would not have the precision machining and balancing, file fit rings and heavy older castings that I have though. I probably would have had to decide on a specific purpose for the motor and not have some of the flexability that i have now either.

If the engine has not run in 15 years then untill you have it apart and see if the cylinders are pitted or not and the block has no cracks it really isn't even a choice.

A 3 sp manual will run a few rpm slower than a TH350 or TH400 will but not really worth much in my opinion. I like the auto unless you go wilth something with 4 to 6 forward gears. I have 3.73's and my truck will run all day at 3000 plus RPM with no problems.

[chevybill]

thanks for all the replies, everyone.

i was just concerned about leaving a better block and head combination in the junkyard, as opposed to a cast in mexico, crate engine.

again, thanks for your input

[knsmodels]

with Stingray.....I had the same dilema with my K10. Crate or Rebuild?? Just couldnt bring myself to buy the crate engine....the cost on my rebuild actually came in a little under the crate engine but at least I know what I have....I knew the history on the motor I rebuilt and machine work was minimal.....I know the crate engine comes with a warranty and all but I feel better with the rebuild.....JMHO......besides things always break after the warranty expires anyways......

[3 on the tree]

A warranty is only as good as the seller. I would use the 74 block(if usable) and put some better heads on it.

[krue]

Marshall does rebuilt engines with a 75k or 100k mile warranty, I believe Edb is running one in his truck.

[Johnny05]

I was debating the same thing and after checking prices and asking alot of questions I decided to go with a GM Crate engine (LM1). It turned out cheaper and this an all new motor with a 3yr 100k mile warranty. Here's a link to the place where I just bought mine..

http://www.lowcostengines.com/1067353.htm

Their prices have gone up slightly since I bought mine since I paid a little over a $100.00 less but it's still a good deal. Best thing is now there's no more oil leaks and she runs real smooth!!

[RPOZ11]

ChevyBill...What did you end up doing?
We can all add our suggestions but your decision is the one that counts!
A newer GM crate motor will have a warranty, buying a used core can leave you guessing when it comes to damaged blocks, internals, etc.
However, most of us like the whole assembly deal!
I prefer to use an earlier block that was casted thicker than the newer ones, alike the crate motors; these crate motors use thinner castings on heads and blocks.
Earlier heads can always be massaged to adhere to your performance demands!
Remember that pump gas is what we have now, build it accrdingly if it is a daily driver.
Otherwise , you can upgrade to whatever you desire if you want more...it's up to you!

[chevybill]

JohnnyO5, where is Rydell Chevrolet located? Texas?
trying to get an idea on shipping and the closest location of a crate engine.

In all probability, I am going with a crate engine, due to time
constraints and my budget is now somewhat smaller due to those many
life situations that arise.

thanks for all the replies and view, they are much appreciated.

[Johnny05]

Chevybill shipping was around $150.00 Rydell Chevrolet is in Waterloo, IA so it was quite a ways from Texas. Total was just over $1400.00 when I bought my engine. When I checked locally on new crate engines the best price I found was $1700.00 even the rebuilt engines from some of the rebuilders were $1400.00+ for a 4 bolt main 350. I just decided to save the headaches and go with the new engine since I have no real desire to hot rod my truck.. I just want a nice dependable daily driver and now I have one with a/c even! At a lot less than a new truck would cost! The best thing is.. she doesn't look like much but she's a keeper and she'll run for days!

[Dick Dale]

I have a god machinist and have a lot of parts for 350 Chevys. I have time to do my engine slowly and pay a little at a time. I would rebuild because you get more choice. If you decide you want a better cam or different heads, warranty void.

[glock35ipsc]

When I first put the 68 together, I went with the crate motor, swapped out the cam with a Comp Cams 268H, HEI, an aluminum intake and an Edelbrock carb. All I wanted to do with the truck was to get in and drive it. If I wanted a little more of a hot rod, I would have definately built one myself. But for the $$, the crate motor was perfect for me.

[gangforward]

I put a crate motor in my 67 along with a new Turbo 400, and I've not regreted it for one second. As far as I'm concerned if you're building a "driver" go with a crate motor. If you are building something you want to race or have radical, build it yourself so you can rebuild it when you break it.

I'd buy another crate motor in a second!

[Gray Ghost]

260 hp LM1 Crate....$1700 minimum at the time....built locally 300 hp 350...$1100 out the door....that was a no brainer for me. I'll never darken a crate motor's door again. They're all built in Mexico these days and that's a scary thought.

I've heard just about every response to my point of view about this that exists and I'll tell ya that my take on it ain't popular, but I am a old guy and it only takes once to cure me. I ordered a roller cam kitted 330 hp Vortes motor for $2895 last time I replaced an engine in our '86 MCSS. The dang thing was 'sposed to have 350 ponies, but it couldn't even come close to keeping up with my 325 hp Elky....I don't know about reliability, I sold the MCSS and shipped it to Nebraska.

[gangforward]

Originally Posted by Buffalo Elk

260 hp LM1 Crate....$1700 minimum at the time....built locally 300 hp 350...$1100 out the door....that was a no brainer for me. I'll never darken a crate motor's door again. They're all built in Mexico these days and that's a scary thought.

I've heard just about every response to my point of view about this that exists and I'll tell ya that my take on it ain't popular, but I am a old guy and it only takes once to cure me. I ordered a roller cam kitted 330 hp Vortes motor for $2895 last time I replaced an engine in our '86 MCSS. The dang thing was 'sposed to have 350 ponies, but it couldn't even come close to keeping up with my 325 hp Elky....I don't know about reliability, I sold the MCSS and shipped it to Nebraska.

Dallas must be nice - can't get engine or machine work for these kinds of prices where I live.

[Gray Ghost]

I did have the core heads (624's). The motor is an 010 block with 4-bolt mains. I am very happy to say the least. Dallas ain't nice for much, but this is definitely a plus.

[bobshotrodblazer]

I put the 290hp/350 in my 67 lwb and its great. It has a little lumpy cam sound to it and great torque and top end. for the money 1650.00 it was the right choice for me . People pull up beside me thinking I have a worn out 283 and I leave them in my mirror. It makes this driver truck fun to drive.

[gator2511]

I think the crate motors get an undeserved bad reputation. If you make thousands of anything you will have to have some problems. I have a 290hp crate motor in my 72 and its runs great! I put a th400 behind it to give me power for towing. I also went with a gv overdrive unit to cut down the highway rpms. At 70 it turns 2100rpm. Its a great combination for a 4wd daily driver, occasional rv tow truck and off road hunting truck. If you want to use the truck for a special purpose then build your own engine the way you want, a crate motor is a good way to go for the average truck.

[Gray Ghost]

Nice that you have a GV OD....that will help you with engine and drivetrain life for sure! Glad you got a good crate, their not all bad just not for me.