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08-29-2005, 08:13 PM | #1 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 21
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51 IFS, New rear end & Motor upgrade
OK, I Got the cash and am ready to go. Read alot of ideas on IFS swap on this site and others. Still would like more input on the major brand kits like Progressive, Heits, TCI etc. Do NOT want to scab on a clip. What kit is the best to set up for alignment and keep aligned? What will ride best? I don't want to go the air bag route. More cash than I want to part with and from what I have read will not improve my ride that much. Cost v/s Quality? Also one item missing from all info I have is the question of wheel offset. Don't the kits take that into consideration so you can get stock wheels off the shelf? Or do I need to think about special wheel offsets?
I am building this panel truck to be my daliy driver. Would like to drop from current (original) ride height only 1" to 2". Have plans to finish entire project over this winter and drive by May 1st. After IFS is tacked in and mounts installed am going to remove body and go at it ground up. This way I can flip over and weld right side up. Don't like sparks down my shirt. Thanks to replys I found a dealer to get a new 350 SM block from. Also have a 450 trans ready to with el camio rear end. Thanks for the ideas and input |
08-31-2005, 12:59 PM | #2 |
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Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 105
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Progressive i have great luck with as and installer. I also like the TCI that is his design not the stang II Dont like Gary Heidts stuff all that well and wont use Fatstuff at all. (nothing to do with price) Just my opinion having done a bunch of em.
Bob (progressive) is a real joy to work with........and honest. You will be pretty safe with wheel offsets on this kit.Its been done a bunch. Bob even owns one that he drives. TCI i often add a bit of caster on install(tip crossmember a bit) Air ride is way over the top on ride..but at a cost. But i think shockwaves and vette or TCI suspension works better than bags on a stang II. Last edited by Phat; 08-31-2005 at 01:02 PM. |
08-31-2005, 01:28 PM | #3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Kansas
Posts: 702
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quote (This way I can flip over and weld right side up. Don't like sparks down my shirt. )
get ya a tig, then you can wear shorts and stay cooler during the summer heat (& stay tanned)
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The kid Build threads: 51 Jimmy http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=154951 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=219902 http://www.classictrucks.com/feature...uck/index.html 68 C10 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ad.php?t=50348 Last edited by Kid; 08-31-2005 at 01:29 PM. |
08-31-2005, 01:48 PM | #4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 105
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Hey KID they are nice till yah get old and cant lay on the floor no more
Now i bet i am only bench welding parts nowadays with the Tig. Get a tickle ever now and than with shorts and bear arms LOL |
09-01-2005, 06:24 PM | #5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Southern Pines NC
Posts: 3,853
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How much do you want to spend verse a practical daily driver. S-10 chassis fit very well under these trucks. The way the front sub frame fits into the channel of the middle part of the frame is good too. All you have to do is get a frame with a wheel base longer than your panel, grind or break free the welds hold the subframe into the channel, then take a come along and pull the sub frame into the channel untill the wheel base is what you want, square up both sides and weld.
What you have then is a modern suspension, front and rear with the ride height that you want for some labor and low cost parts. The after market suspension drop things at least 3-4 inches Just an idea................. Steve |
09-01-2005, 09:29 PM | #6 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 21
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Cost it only 1/4 of it
I may think a little different but I want to build this correct the 1st time & make it as long lasting as possible. Second thought is make it simple. Third make it safe! The way I figure, which may be wrong , but if I was to put a s10 under it I would have to replace most of the moving parts of IFS. Bushings, ball joints, rotors, pads, tie rod ends, linkage,etc. Add all this up and I think your close to a kit IFS. The frame is in great shape as is the body. So, am only doing drive train, adding air and minor interior details. Total I paln on spending is $5500 for upgrades plus my labor. One more major problem I found is BIG blind spot in both mirrors. Guess I am going to hang some big ones off it to see where I have been or who I am running off in a ditch.
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09-05-2005, 02:27 PM | #7 |
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Join Date: May 2004
Location: St cloud, Florida
Posts: 61
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If you want the best go Vette..........both the Must II & Vette cost the same ask Bob @ Progressive for a comparison.
Don |
09-18-2005, 09:19 PM | #8 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Cactus Patch So. Az
Posts: 4,749
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Which ever one you use you will get the best ride out of Bilstine shocks front and back, I have them front and rear and they are great!!
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53 TuTone Extended Cab 350 4-Spd 3:08 (SOLD) 53 Chevy Moldy pearl green ZZ-4 4L60E 9" 3:25 55 GMC 1st Black Mll (ZZ4) ZZ6 TKO 600 5 sp 3:73 62 Solidaxle Corvette Roman Red (327 340hp 4spd 3:36) C4 & C5 suspension tube chassis LS 3 4L70E 65 Corvette Coupe 327 350hp 4spd 4:11 78 Black Silverado SWB (350/350) 5.3 & 4L60E 3:42 2000 S-Type 3.0 (wife cruiser) 2003 GMC SCSB 5.3 4L60E 3:42 |
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