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08-30-2005, 09:58 PM | #1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 232
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So I am going to notch my frame....
Hey guys,
I pikced up a new frame a week or 2 ago sinse my old 1 was not worth fixing. Anyways I am hoping in the next weekend or 2 (most likely 2) to notch the back of my frame. I am going to be building the notch myself (no kit) so I thought I would do something a little different then the standard notch. I got to thinking it would be cool to throw a triangle notch in. I know it is not a new idea, just one I dont see very often. So I was curious if anyone has any pix of trucks with traingle notches? I am going to be running a triangulated 4 link, I havent ordered the link yet and I am undicided on where to mount my bags. So any opinoins or pix would be great! Thanks Keith |
08-30-2005, 10:02 PM | #2 |
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Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 256
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sounds cool but i dont think it will look as clean as a well done step notch. thats just me though
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66 C10 (under construction) 1.5" crossmember drop 2" Z'ed frame 8" rear notch Watts-link Bagged DJM 3" spindles |
08-31-2005, 12:13 AM | #3 |
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Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 232
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hey DM310,
could you alberate on your comment? How come you do not feel that it will not be as clean? If the job is done well either should look clean; right? I am not argueing with you, I am just trying to see what you mean cause I am still have not completely decided what I am going to do, but that is why I am asking 2 weeks in advance Keith |
09-01-2005, 12:16 AM | #4 | |
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Location: Los Angeles
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Quote:
I just dont think it would look good, I have seen some on s-10's and it looked like crap...... not saying yours would. I think there was a 67-72 truck on here that had a v notch also. I believe it was the one w/ the large singal airbag in the rear. How big of a notch are you planning on doing? Do you want to lay frame?
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66 C10 (under construction) 1.5" crossmember drop 2" Z'ed frame 8" rear notch Watts-link Bagged DJM 3" spindles |
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08-31-2005, 01:02 AM | #5 |
Chevy truck addict
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Thornton Colorado
Posts: 825
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Hey keith where did u finally get your frame from?
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08-31-2005, 01:12 AM | #6 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 232
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A friend of mine down in Eugene, picked it up for $150, not too bad for a short bed frame with front cross member and A-arms. All American Classic quoted me $400 for a short bed frame with out trailing arms and front cross member. Seams pretty high for a bare frame
Keith |
08-31-2005, 01:13 AM | #7 |
Hollister Road Co.
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Houston
Posts: 6,131
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The triangle notch would not be a strong as a step. your stress points will be in the V of the V notch where the amount of metal is at its thinest. The traditional step spreads the stress over the Arc of the setp notch, it goes back to the romans building the water ways with arches. Arches spread the weight and stress far better.
You could use the V if you bridged it with an unbrella type tubing structure welding 2 tubes on either side of the V to the frame on each side and meeting them in the middle of the frame rails, about 12 inches above the rear end, that would give you your arch. Might look cool with a kind of Eifel tower thing going on but flater. |
08-31-2005, 01:39 AM | #8 |
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Location: Portland, Oregon
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I know this is a crappy job, but you all get the idea, this is what I had planned to do but with a cross bar on both sides of the "V" I didnt add them to the pic as to not clutter the pic.
Would this work or do I need to go a different route? Thanks Keith |
08-31-2005, 03:06 AM | #9 |
Hollister Road Co.
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Houston
Posts: 6,131
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More like this. if you can decipher my very poor phioto shop skills
Top view and side view |
08-31-2005, 03:08 AM | #10 |
Hollister Road Co.
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Houston
Posts: 6,131
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but not quite as pronounced at the peak. It can be just to the top of the V. 1.5" DOM tube would be more than enough.
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08-31-2005, 10:17 AM | #11 |
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 232
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I am curious how much stress can there possibly be on a frame that will never have more then 50 lbs of groceries in the back?
I honestly dont like how busy it would have to be to get it to work if that is the case I will build a standard step notch. Keith |
08-31-2005, 10:30 AM | #12 |
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Location: Portland, Oregon
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errr while getting ready for work I forgot about the 28 gallon tank behind the axel :P that is still only 210 pounds. Hmmm what do you guys think I should do?
Keith |
08-31-2005, 12:04 PM | #13 |
Outlandish Trends - FL
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Orlando
Posts: 1,396
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It has nothing to do with the weight in the bed. It's the structural integrity of the frame. The frame is the backbone of the truck. It has to hold up to lateral stresses as well as vertical. Think of how much stress is put on it just when you pitch it into a hard corner or when you hit a big bump. These variables directly affect that area of the frame. In a triangle notch, there is only 1 stress point (the top of the triangle) This is bad and that sharp edge at the top of the triangle will be prone to cracking unless you use some sort of gusset to reinforce it.
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08-31-2005, 10:55 PM | #14 |
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So if I made V'd shape gussets for the inside of both sides of the V would it make it any better? OR should I just go with the more common standard step notch?
Thanks Keith |
09-01-2005, 12:33 AM | #15 |
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Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 232
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Long term goals are to lay out in back on 22's but on my budget more likely 20's so ya I plan to lay out on a 27 inch or so tire in back. for now I will most likely just roll on 15's with a similar size diamter tire as a 20/22.
Keith Last edited by a squarecan; 09-01-2005 at 12:34 AM. |
09-01-2005, 12:46 AM | #16 |
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Location: Los Angeles
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I would do a 10" notch. I did a 8" on mine and lays out on 29.5" tires but thats w/ the notch laying on the axle w/o a bump stop. So now I can only run 27" tires b/c I am adding a bump stop. So keep that in mind.
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66 C10 (under construction) 1.5" crossmember drop 2" Z'ed frame 8" rear notch Watts-link Bagged DJM 3" spindles |
09-01-2005, 12:51 AM | #17 |
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Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 232
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Thanks for the info DM310,
do you have any pix of your set up? Where are you running your bags? That is another thing I cannot decide on... over the axel or on the arms? I want to minimize the amount of bed floor I have to cut up. I have no problem with the section for the notch, but I dont want the whole bed floor open. Keith |
09-01-2005, 01:13 AM | #18 |
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Location: Los Angeles
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Heres a old pic. I will try to take new ones w/ everything done
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66 C10 (under construction) 1.5" crossmember drop 2" Z'ed frame 8" rear notch Watts-link Bagged DJM 3" spindles |
09-02-2005, 04:14 PM | #19 | |
Outlandish Trends - FL
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Orlando
Posts: 1,396
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Quote:
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-Bret 67 short-fleet sold! |
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09-01-2005, 10:24 AM | #20 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 232
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Looks good DM,
I had planned on swapping out to a 4 link, but I like where you mounted your bags and your notch looks real nice! |
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