Longbed to shortbed conversion - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

ChevyMex · 09-05-2005, 02:26 AM

Have you ever seen a thread to short a longbed (not the chassis, only the bed), since i am in Mexico it is so hard to find a good rust free shortbed but i have seen a lot of good and solid lonbeds (There was a period in 1995 where the Govern allow th Mexicans to import work trucks, most of these trucks were 67 -72 longbed trucks ), the guy in the junkyard is asking for 100 - 200 dlls.

Since this part is the only thing missing in my project i will go ahead and buy the long bed and try to findout the best way to cut anf weld. I will post photos.

llegos · 09-05-2005, 02:32 AM

the earlyclassic website actually has instructions on how to do this, so i think it would be worth checking out

http://www.earlyclassic.com/tech.asp...20No!-Shortbed

there ya go, and buena suerte...

Frizzle Fry · 09-05-2005, 11:28 AM

I cut some long bedsides down to short. 12" out in front of the wheelwells and 8" behind. Here's a link to the progress I'll have to take a shot looking down the side because it all lines up really well.

GlennBrittain · 09-05-2005, 12:29 PM

There is also info in the FAQ

**RPOZ11** · 09-05-2005, 01:23 PM

I am liking this thread!

It appears to me that the front section of the bed was not discussed in the above link on the shortening of the bed sides!
In time I suppose aftermarket(GoodMark?) side panels would be available to purchase and use as well as the metal floor pan!
Almost seems easier to do in the near future!

I have my 72 C/20 and thought about doing this!
In the ECE website, they show a drop spindle already made to incorporate the 3/4 A-Arms and Ball Joint system into using a 5-lug rotor.

I like the idea.
I am guessing, as I have never compared the 1/2 to 3/4 ball joints if that they are bigger on the 3/4 ton suspension...
If so , I see an even better stronger version of a ride and use with the 3/4 system.
Time is on my side as I see it!
I was going to off my C/20 but I am more and more leaning towards doing this for my the fun of having one again!
I hate that California Smog Law situation immensely!
Looks like my 84 1/2 is on the way out eventually!

ChevyMex · 09-07-2005, 01:40 AM

Thanks to all, Llegos the post from EC is about shortening the chassis not the bed, anyway thanks, Mr Frizzle Fry, do you have the exact measures, where to place the markin tape, etc, etc, Did you have weld both sides of the bed?

Mr. GlennBrittain, do you have the link of the thread?

Frizzle Fry · 09-07-2005, 03:57 PM

The front 12" slices came out right next to the front stake pocket hole, and the rear 8" sections were taken out about and inch behind the wheel arches. I used a laser level set on vertical to ensure the tape marks were parallel. The cuts were made with an abrasive blade on an 8" circle saw so the inner and outer panels were cut together.

Olden Days · 09-10-2005, 04:14 PM

http://totallypolished.com/projects/71.htm
see if that link will do you any good

ChevyMex · 09-12-2005, 02:29 AM

Thanks to all, i just have the longbed in my shop, i will post pics showing process

FRENCHBLUE72 · 09-12-2005, 11:42 AM

I'll have to chime in here as I would love to see some good pic's with measurement's..

Frizzle Fry · 09-12-2005, 12:42 PM

Is this what you’re looking for? The placement of the sections is not an exact science. Take the front one out anywhere between the wheel-well and the front stake-pocket. I recommend placing the rear section as far forward as possible because the bodyline just below the bedrail curves down more toward the rear. I matched that line up fairly easily with the section placed where indicated in the picture. I started my tack-welding with the bed-rail, then worked my way down with a little trimming here and there (very little).

Frizzle Fry · 09-12-2005, 02:22 PM

Well, I didn't get that far and now I'm selling the truck... I was planning to convert to wood. The metal floor could be cut, but the supports would have to be considered as you mentioned. I think it would be hard to hide the seams in the floor too. If the supports were removed (lots of spot welds) then the floor could be trimmed 20" on one end (probably front) and have no seams. Then position the supports accordingly.

Frizzle Fry · 09-12-2005, 02:52 PM

Well, 20" is gonna have to come out of the floor. Where you take it out will be determined by where the supports are now vs. where they need to end up. Should be pretty easy to figure out. To answer the question, I don't know if the bed side cuts will align with the bed floor cuts. If they do line up you could just use one of these:

09-05-2005, 02:26 AM	#1
ChevyMex Registered User Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Mexico Posts: 92	Longbed to shortbed conversion Have you ever seen a thread to short a longbed (not the chassis, only the bed), since i am in Mexico it is so hard to find a good rust free shortbed but i have seen a lot of good and solid lonbeds (There was a period in 1995 where the Govern allow th Mexicans to import work trucks, most of these trucks were 67 -72 longbed trucks ), the guy in the junkyard is asking for 100 - 200 dlls. Since this part is the only thing missing in my project i will go ahead and buy the long bed and try to findout the best way to cut anf weld. I will post photos.

09-05-2005, 02:32 AM	#2
llegos Registered User Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: pleasanton, CA Posts: 570	the earlyclassic website actually has instructions on how to do this, so i think it would be worth checking out http://www.earlyclassic.com/tech.asp...20No!-Shortbed there ya go, and buena suerte... __________________ -Steve Last edited by llegos; 09-05-2005 at 02:32 AM.

09-05-2005, 01:23 PM	#5
RPOZ11 72 BB C30 Super LongHorn Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Chavez Ravine Posts: 1,606	I am liking this thread! It appears to me that the front section of the bed was not discussed in the above link on the shortening of the bed sides! In time I suppose aftermarket(GoodMark?) side panels would be available to purchase and use as well as the metal floor pan! Almost seems easier to do in the near future! I have my 72 C/20 and thought about doing this! In the ECE website, they show a drop spindle already made to incorporate the 3/4 A-Arms and Ball Joint system into using a 5-lug rotor. I like the idea. I am guessing, as I have never compared the 1/2 to 3/4 ball joints if that they are bigger on the 3/4 ton suspension... If so , I see an even better stronger version of a ride and use with the 3/4 system. Time is on my side as I see it! I was going to off my C/20 but I am more and more leaning towards doing this for my the fun of having one again! I hate that California Smog Law situation immensely! Looks like my 84 1/2 is on the way out eventually! __________________ 72 BB C/30 Longhorn Super HO72 No-Spin, #'s matching, Tilt, Tach, AC, AM/FM HO72 build : http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=714492 2017 SS

09-12-2005, 11:42 AM	#10
FRENCHBLUE72 PROJECT 7DEUCE Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: GRANTS PASS OR Posts: 21,606	I'll have to chime in here as I would love to see some good pic's with measurement's.. __________________ GO BIG GREEN GO DUCKS MEMBER #6377 72 k-5 daily driver 6'' lift 35'' 350-350-205 slowly getting rust free. Project "7DEUCE" check out my build http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=267665 Tim Powell..R.I.P EastSideLowlife..... R.I.P..

09-12-2005, 12:42 PM	#11
Frizzle Fry Registered User Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Hillsboro Oregon Posts: 6,449	Measurements Is this what you’re looking for? The placement of the sections is not an exact science. Take the front one out anywhere between the wheel-well and the front stake-pocket. I recommend placing the rear section as far forward as possible because the bodyline just below the bedrail curves down more toward the rear. I matched that line up fairly easily with the section placed where indicated in the picture. I started my tack-welding with the bed-rail, then worked my way down with a little trimming here and there (very little).

09-05-2005, 11:28 AM	#3
Frizzle Fry Registered User Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Hillsboro Oregon Posts: 6,449	I cut some long bedsides down to short. 12" out in front of the wheelwells and 8" behind. Here's a link to the progress I'll have to take a shot looking down the side because it all lines up really well.

09-05-2005, 12:29 PM	#4
GlennBrittain Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Panola County Texas Posts: 401	There is also info in the FAQ

09-07-2005, 01:40 AM	#6
ChevyMex Registered User Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Mexico Posts: 92	Thanks to all, Llegos the post from EC is about shortening the chassis not the bed, anyway thanks, Mr Frizzle Fry, do you have the exact measures, where to place the markin tape, etc, etc, Did you have weld both sides of the bed? Mr. GlennBrittain, do you have the link of the thread?

09-07-2005, 03:57 PM	#7
Frizzle Fry Registered User Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Hillsboro Oregon Posts: 6,449	The front 12" slices came out right next to the front stake pocket hole, and the rear 8" sections were taken out about and inch behind the wheel arches. I used a laser level set on vertical to ensure the tape marks were parallel. The cuts were made with an abrasive blade on an 8" circle saw so the inner and outer panels were cut together.

09-10-2005, 04:14 PM	#8
Olden Days Living In The Past Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Rockies Posts: 709	http://totallypolished.com/projects/71.htm see if that link will do you any good

09-12-2005, 02:29 AM	#9
ChevyMex Registered User Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Mexico Posts: 92	Thanks to all, i just have the longbed in my shop, i will post pics showing process

09-12-2005, 02:22 PM	#12
Frizzle Fry Registered User Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Hillsboro Oregon Posts: 6,449	Well, I didn't get that far and now I'm selling the truck... I was planning to convert to wood. The metal floor could be cut, but the supports would have to be considered as you mentioned. I think it would be hard to hide the seams in the floor too. If the supports were removed (lots of spot welds) then the floor could be trimmed 20" on one end (probably front) and have no seams. Then position the supports accordingly.

09-12-2005, 02:52 PM	#13
Frizzle Fry Registered User Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Hillsboro Oregon Posts: 6,449	Well, 20" is gonna have to come out of the floor. Where you take it out will be determined by where the supports are now vs. where they need to end up. Should be pretty easy to figure out. To answer the question, I don't know if the bed side cuts will align with the bed floor cuts. If they do line up you could just use one of these:



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