who cut thier frame? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

19muscletruck69 · 07-08-2002, 10:18 PM

anyone cut thier frame to fit a short box on it......how did you do this? what tools did you use? did you Personally cut it? how did you deal with all the suspension issues and just the entire thing...does any one have any pics and procedures on how to do this ...i love short beds and i have access to get short box and a drive shaft for it anything else i would need I REALLY WANNA DO THIS SO ANY HELP WOULD KIK @$$

6869704X4 · 07-08-2002, 11:00 PM

The factory assembly manuals have frame dimensions for four different length frames. I know them things are a pain in the ass to find stuff but there is a lot of good $hit in there.
Its a good place to start anyway.

Super Chevy · 07-09-2002, 12:28 AM

TTT...

Ebfabman is god at this stuff

O'l Buck · 07-09-2002, 02:09 AM

Mine was shortened when I bought it....it looks like they just took a torch and hacked the frame behind the cab, removed enough material to make it a shorty, welded it back together and gloved the inside of the frame with some heavy iron.....and voila....115" WB....

Make sure you cut the frame in a place where it is straight, not curved, it will be alot easier to line up, and of course, you will be needing a new driveshaft

JimKshortstep4x4 · 07-09-2002, 08:21 AM

These are two methods that we use for cutting heavy gauge sheet metal (16 gage and heavier). 1) Using a saws-all, we clamp
steel straight edges to the part at the cut line and use the straight edge as a guide. 2) Using a plasma cutter, we clamp straight pieces of wood to the part that is to be cut and use the wood as a straight edge for guiding the cutter head.

With a little practice it is pretty easy to get a nice straight edge
after it is cleaned up with a file or grinder.

Jim

REPO1 · 07-09-2002, 08:51 AM

Someone who did this has a web site showing all the pics of how they did it.

Unfortunatly, I cannot find it. Did anyone happen to keep a copy of the link to it?

70 Jimmy · 07-09-2002, 09:08 AM

Couple of things to remember when cutting a frame. Cut straight down about 1/2 way (vertical), then lengthwise about the same distance (horizontal), then down the rest of the way (vertical again). This will give you strength in all directions. It would be difficult with a sawzall. You could also go diagonal and still do better than cutting straight down. The other is to avoid welding a sheet of metal on top of metal, like a bandaid. It will trap moisture. Granted,it may still last 10 years, but why not make it last forever. Weld the edges only. Using the frame as an example; It is a "[" shape. If you want to strengthen the joint, "box" it in by putting a plate couple of inches longer than the new frame seam between the edges of the "[" . I would actually do this first before cutting the frame. I realize this all may be overkill, but I don't take frames lightly. Hope this helps.

ebfabman · 07-09-2002, 09:44 AM

"GOD" heh heh........ I think he meant to type DOG...oh well, heres some pics of how I did mine......

wxman1 · 07-09-2002, 09:48 AM

I recently bought a 69 C-10 Pickup. Apparently
the previous owner shortened the bed. the original bed has been cut with a different bed welded onto the truck just back of the cab. Take a look at
these images. Given the way he "handled" the
driveshaft...this fellow may have not been the
sharpest pencil in the box.
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/wxgeek/p6100028.jpg
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/wxgeek/p6100029.jpg
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/wxgeek/p6100030.jpg
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/wxgeek/p6100031.jpg
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/wxgeek/p6100032.jpg

Jim

70 Jimmy · 07-10-2002, 01:34 PM

ebfabman, you should write a tech article. That's great work! Did you use a plasma cutter?

*Randy70C-10* · 07-10-2002, 01:48 PM

I agree, that's awsome work!

RCOMBS · 07-10-2002, 03:00 PM

i have seen it with my own 2 eyes! it truly does look as good as the picture.

WB72 · 07-10-2002, 03:42 PM

There is a tech article I have seen in CLASSIC TRUCK Mag, before they quit writing about our trucks, I have it somewhere, I will scan it and get it to the web. I may need help with the publishing to the web part though.

*MJF* · 07-10-2002, 04:47 PM

You'll need shorter:

brake lines
e-brake cable
fuel lines
& stuff like that. Plus your electrical wiring will be a little long but that's not a problem at all.

ebfabman · 07-10-2002, 07:24 PM

I can't even spell tek artekul

Yes I used a plasma cutter.

ckhd · 07-10-2002, 07:45 PM

MMMmmmmmm..... plasma...

Someone told me that a little needed to come off the rear. Is that right?

ebfabman · 07-10-2002, 09:05 PM

12 inches from under the cab, 8 inches from the where the rear bumper bolts on ( the bumper holes are already there )

Remove the bed mounts closest to the cab, move the rear cab mounts back 12 inches.

Then the items mentioned above. Its not to hard of a job with a little planning.

NSANE68!!! · 07-10-2002, 11:41 PM

ebfabman----------------- YOU ARE THE MAN!!!!! Sweet A$$ work. When I grow up I want a PLASMA CUTTER. LOL, I've used them they are nice to have. But I make do with the old SAWZALL and a grinder and cut off wheel. OLD SCHOOL, but get's the jub done. I just notche my Tahoe. Sure would have been nice to have that plasma cutter. Went through one wheel and 3 blades. hehe

ebfabman · 07-11-2002, 01:38 AM

plasma cutters RULE ! so do mig welders.........and sawzalls........and die grinders........and........

Well.........TOOLS RULE !

(so does mrs fabman)

palallin · 08-02-2002, 02:13 PM

BTT

chewed 71'er · 08-02-2002, 04:16 PM

Depends on the guy wielding the tools. You're definitely in the professional category, ebfabman!

mikep · 08-02-2002, 04:46 PM

I bought a Miller Procut 55 plasma cutter last week. Paid about 5X more for it than I did for my truck . Wish I had a long time ago though. I'll probably be shortening my frame this winter too for a late model stepside bed so this will come in handy. I might even pick up a new MIG welder for the job if my wife doesnt get sticker shock too bad. Ive got an older Polish made airgas model thats getting hard to find parts for. I actually have to make tips for it on the lathe as none are available . I hardly ever use it but I dont think my TIG welder will like this job much. It would do it but it would be a major PITA.

The Blue Pig · 08-02-2002, 09:40 PM

Hey man, your Tig would love it! Turn up the heat and get some fat fill rod and go to town! No one TIG's anymore, damn cryin shame too. It'll be a lost artform soon. (fat fill rod just being an expression, not literal). A buddy and I boxed a frame on a sonoma and shortened a frame on an 84 with TIG welders, just takes a little longer. But then, if you can do a decent job, you would not have to metal finish the outside of your frame, you could show off the custom handywork, course, then again, it may be a little ugly to have a big ass zig-zaggin weld on your nice fresh frame.

lux hauler · 08-02-2002, 10:18 PM

ebfabman ......do you have any pics that shows where to cut the rear section of the frame?

BTW.......very nice work......i'm thinking of doing this to my truck.

ebfabman · 08-03-2002, 12:40 AM

1972c10_ohio, I can get a pic of that for you. The rear cut is just a straight cut from the rear most part of the frame-the very end of the frame. Measure aprox (I say aprox because this cut is not crucial) 8 inches extending forward from the very end of the frame. Make a "perpendicular to the frame"cut. before you cut it, look for the "other" set of bumper bracket holes, kind of at a diaginal, just like the ones that held your original brackets on but about 8 inches futher foward. These will be the "new" bumper bracket holes (you don't have to drill them, they're already there)

07-08-2002, 10:18 PM	#1
19muscletruck69 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: anaheim ca Posts: 18	who cut thier frame? anyone cut thier frame to fit a short box on it......how did you do this? what tools did you use? did you Personally cut it? how did you deal with all the suspension issues and just the entire thing...does any one have any pics and procedures on how to do this ...i love short beds and i have access to get short box and a drive shaft for it anything else i would need I REALLY WANNA DO THIS SO ANY HELP WOULD KIK @$$ __________________ (soon to be lowered) 69'GMC LWB 283ci, Wienand Intake, Holley 4175, Pertronix Distributor, TH400 built to crush rocks, chirps nice...need some new mufflers..

07-08-2002, 11:00 PM	#2
6869704X4 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: SE NM Posts: 769	The factory assembly manuals have frame dimensions for four different length frames. I know them things are a pain in the ass to find stuff but there is a lot of good $hit in there. Its a good place to start anyway. __________________ The more I learn about women, the more I love my truck.

07-09-2002, 02:09 AM	#4
O'l Buck Recovering Truck Driver Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Orleans, NE USA Posts: 1,883	Mine was shortened when I bought it....it looks like they just took a torch and hacked the frame behind the cab, removed enough material to make it a shorty, welded it back together and gloved the inside of the frame with some heavy iron.....and voila....115" WB.... Make sure you cut the frame in a place where it is straight, not curved, it will be alot easier to line up, and of course, you will be needing a new driveshaft __________________ 67 K-20 350, SM465, Eaton rear, 4.56 no spin option 00 Dodge 2500 4x4, 24V cummins, 5 speed Chad South Central Nebraska

07-09-2002, 08:51 AM	#6
REPO1 Shortbox wanna-be. Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Fort St.John, British Columbia, Canada Posts: 773	Someone who did this has a web site showing all the pics of how they did it. Unfortunatly, I cannot find it. Did anyone happen to keep a copy of the link to it? __________________ 1970 Chevy C20 Custom Camper 402BB Turbo 400 trans. (Slowly becoming a '70 shortbox 1/2 ton) '71 Camaro SS 402/T400 resto '97 Z28 (11.41@127MPH)

07-09-2002, 09:08 AM	#7
70 Jimmy aka Crusher, Crushergmc Join Date: Mar 2000 Location: Oregon Posts: 1,834	Couple of things to remember when cutting a frame. Cut straight down about 1/2 way (vertical), then lengthwise about the same distance (horizontal), then down the rest of the way (vertical again). This will give you strength in all directions. It would be difficult with a sawzall. You could also go diagonal and still do better than cutting straight down. The other is to avoid welding a sheet of metal on top of metal, like a bandaid. It will trap moisture. Granted,it may still last 10 years, but why not make it last forever. Weld the edges only. Using the frame as an example; It is a "[" shape. If you want to strengthen the joint, "box" it in by putting a plate couple of inches longer than the new frame seam between the edges of the "[" . I would actually do this first before cutting the frame. I realize this all may be overkill, but I don't take frames lightly. Hope this helps. __________________ "KEEP IT DOWN!" 70 Jimmy 454 2wd 56 GMC Big Window "It's funny till someone gets hurt, then it's freakin' hilarious" Last edited by 70 Jimmy; 07-09-2002 at 09:11 AM.

07-09-2002, 12:28 AM	#3
Super Chevy Registered User Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Ohio Posts: 1,025	TTT... Ebfabman is god at this stuff

07-09-2002, 08:21 AM	#5
JimKshortstep4x4 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Muskegon,MI,USA Posts: 6,026	These are two methods that we use for cutting heavy gauge sheet metal (16 gage and heavier). 1) Using a saws-all, we clamp steel straight edges to the part at the cut line and use the straight edge as a guide. 2) Using a plasma cutter, we clamp straight pieces of wood to the part that is to be cut and use the wood as a straight edge for guiding the cutter head. With a little practice it is pretty easy to get a nice straight edge after it is cleaned up with a file or grinder. Jim

07-09-2002, 09:44 AM	#8
ebfabman Registered User Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Concord, NC Posts: 2,488	"GOD" heh heh........ I think he meant to type DOG...oh well, heres some pics of how I did mine...... Last edited by ebfabman; 07-09-2002 at 10:05 AM.

07-09-2002, 09:48 AM	#9
wxman1 Senior Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: mt juliet, tennessee, usa Posts: 237	I recently bought a 69 C-10 Pickup. Apparently the previous owner shortened the bed. the original bed has been cut with a different bed welded onto the truck just back of the cab. Take a look at these images. Given the way he "handled" the driveshaft...this fellow may have not been the sharpest pencil in the box. http://mywebpages.comcast.net/wxgeek/p6100028.jpg http://mywebpages.comcast.net/wxgeek/p6100029.jpg http://mywebpages.comcast.net/wxgeek/p6100030.jpg http://mywebpages.comcast.net/wxgeek/p6100031.jpg http://mywebpages.comcast.net/wxgeek/p6100032.jpg Jim

07-10-2002, 01:34 PM	#10
70 Jimmy aka Crusher, Crushergmc Join Date: Mar 2000 Location: Oregon Posts: 1,834	ebfabman, you should write a tech article. That's great work! Did you use a plasma cutter? __________________ "KEEP IT DOWN!" 70 Jimmy 454 2wd 56 GMC Big Window "It's funny till someone gets hurt, then it's freakin' hilarious"

07-10-2002, 01:48 PM	#11
Randy70C-10 Account Suspended Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Virginia Beach, Va. U.S.A. Posts: 15,320	I agree, that's awsome work!

07-10-2002, 03:00 PM	#12
RCOMBS Registered User Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: CHARLOTTE N.C. Posts: 59	i have seen it with my own 2 eyes! it truly does look as good as the picture.

07-10-2002, 03:42 PM	#13
WB72 Before and After Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Leduc, Alberta CANADA Posts: 632	There is a tech article I have seen in CLASSIC TRUCK Mag, before they quit writing about our trucks, I have it somewhere, I will scan it and get it to the web. I may need help with the publishing to the web part though. __________________ Not Grandpa's C-20 anymore... 383 Stroker 425HP, 485Ft/Lbs Lowered 3.5" Front / 5" Rear 66,000 miles. Alberta, CANADA

07-10-2002, 04:47 PM	#14
MJF No longer truckless Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Campbell, CA Posts: 299	You'll need shorter: brake lines e-brake cable fuel lines & stuff like that. Plus your electrical wiring will be a little long but that's not a problem at all.

07-10-2002, 07:24 PM	#15
ebfabman Registered User Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Concord, NC Posts: 2,488	I can't even spell tek artekul Yes I used a plasma cutter.



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07-10-2002, 07:45 PM	#16
ckhd Registered User Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: St. Johns, Arizona Posts: 2,660	MMMmmmmmm..... plasma... Someone told me that a little needed to come off the rear. Is that right? __________________ my 2¢ - t.i.o.l.i. Bowen 1968 K20 fleet 1969 K10 swb fleet 1972 K10 Suburban 1972 C10 lwb step 1992 K1500 'burb 1995 K2500 'burb 1997 C1500 'burb 1999 K1500 2000 K1500 'burb Why do I own so many Suburbans?

07-10-2002, 09:05 PM	#17
ebfabman Registered User Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Concord, NC Posts: 2,488	12 inches from under the cab, 8 inches from the where the rear bumper bolts on ( the bumper holes are already there ) Remove the bed mounts closest to the cab, move the rear cab mounts back 12 inches. Then the items mentioned above. Its not to hard of a job with a little planning.

07-10-2002, 11:41 PM	#18
NSANE68!!! SLICER AND DICIER Join Date: May 2001 Location: Quuen Creek Posts: 1,383	ebfabman----------------- YOU ARE THE MAN!!!!! Sweet A$$ work. When I grow up I want a PLASMA CUTTER. LOL, I've used them they are nice to have. But I make do with the old SAWZALL and a grinder and cut off wheel. OLD SCHOOL, but get's the jub done. I just notche my Tahoe. Sure would have been nice to have that plasma cutter. Went through one wheel and 3 blades. hehe __________________ 01 Tahoe 22's 2/4 drop and tv's 68 chevy money pit 51 chevy belair 95 Honda 900RR 05 GMC Siearra (company truck)

07-11-2002, 01:38 AM	#19
ebfabman Registered User Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Concord, NC Posts: 2,488	plasma cutters RULE ! so do mig welders.........and sawzalls........and die grinders........and........ Well.........TOOLS RULE ! (so does mrs fabman) Last edited by ebfabman; 07-11-2002 at 08:23 AM.

08-02-2002, 02:13 PM	#20
palallin Registered User Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: St. James, MO Posts: 1,238	BTT __________________ '69 Longstep K-10: 327/SM465/T-221/Closed Knuckle Dana44/12-bolt.

08-02-2002, 04:16 PM	#21
chewed 71'er Registered User Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: KC, NW Missouri Posts: 144	Depends on the guy wielding the tools. You're definitely in the professional category, ebfabman!

08-02-2002, 04:46 PM	#22
mikep Used to have a truck Join Date: May 2002 Location: port orchard WA Posts: 1,552	I bought a Miller Procut 55 plasma cutter last week. Paid about 5X more for it than I did for my truck . Wish I had a long time ago though. I'll probably be shortening my frame this winter too for a late model stepside bed so this will come in handy. I might even pick up a new MIG welder for the job if my wife doesnt get sticker shock too bad. Ive got an older Polish made airgas model thats getting hard to find parts for. I actually have to make tips for it on the lathe as none are available . I hardly ever use it but I dont think my TIG welder will like this job much. It would do it but it would be a major PITA. __________________ No truck :-(

08-02-2002, 09:40 PM	#23
The Blue Pig Thread Wizard Since 2002 Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Fairbanks, AK Posts: 102	Hey man, your Tig would love it! Turn up the heat and get some fat fill rod and go to town! No one TIG's anymore, damn cryin shame too. It'll be a lost artform soon. (fat fill rod just being an expression, not literal). A buddy and I boxed a frame on a sonoma and shortened a frame on an 84 with TIG welders, just takes a little longer. But then, if you can do a decent job, you would not have to metal finish the outside of your frame, you could show off the custom handywork, course, then again, it may be a little ugly to have a big ass zig-zaggin weld on your nice fresh frame. __________________ --70 C-10 Longbed --71 C-10 Longbed --72 K-20 Longbed --74 C-10 Shortbed --86 Toyota Tercel (His Driver) --05 Chevy Trailblazer (Her Driver) Last edited by The Blue Pig; 08-02-2002 at 09:43 PM.

08-02-2002, 10:18 PM	#24
lux hauler Psycho-billy Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: about 40 miles west of Cleveland, Ohio Posts: 2,591	ebfabman ......do you have any pics that shows where to cut the rear section of the frame? BTW.......very nice work......i'm thinking of doing this to my truck. __________________ '72 C-10 350 w/Lunati Voodoo cam (207/213, .437/.454), Performer intake, 625 Road Demon Jr. and Hooker headers. Support your community, support yourself. Buy local, buy American (or Canadian).

08-03-2002, 12:40 AM	#25
ebfabman Registered User Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Concord, NC Posts: 2,488	1972c10_ohio, I can get a pic of that for you. The rear cut is just a straight cut from the rear most part of the frame-the very end of the frame. Measure aprox (I say aprox because this cut is not crucial) 8 inches extending forward from the very end of the frame. Make a "perpendicular to the frame"cut. before you cut it, look for the "other" set of bumper bracket holes, kind of at a diaginal, just like the ones that held your original brackets on but about 8 inches futher foward. These will be the "new" bumper bracket holes (you don't have to drill them, they're already there)

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