Frustrated - leaks

[71swb4x4]

I am about ready to call it quits and order coil springs. I wanted bags for the nice ride and adjustability, but this thing is leaking like a sieve. I have pressurized the system, the rear bags hold for about 10 minutes and the front for about 5. I have put a ton of time into this, and haven't even gotten to drive it this summer. I am about to order coil springs, get this piece driving, and sell it so I don't have to look at it anymore.
Any tips on chasing down these leaks?

[orange71]

Spray all the fittings with soap and water and watch for bubbles. Make sure that the airline is cut straight.I have had great luck with using lock tite brand liquid teflon.Its in a white tube. Air bags can be very frustrating at first, but are also worth it in the long run! Dont give up!

[dwcsr]

I use the kids toy "bubble stuff" but soap and water works just as well. The teflon is critcal to stopping leaks. I dont use plastic line because it does make for the possibility of a leaky system when using push on fittings. Its ok if you use compression fittings. I use copper line with compression fittings where ever possible. I still get leaks but its thru the valves and usless you pay for top dollar valves they will leak back even with a check valve.

[71swb4x4]

I am using Parker compression fittings and plastic line. I am using the teflon paste on all of the pipe fittings.
My valves all leak back into the tanks, meaning if the tank isn't pressuriezed the valve leaks back into it. If the tank is pressurized it does not leak through the valves into the bags, so I didn't think it was a big deal.

[PBFAB.COM]

It seems most often than not that "air suspension = air leaks"... it doesn't have to be that way! It can be frustrating chasing down a phantom leak. I have had the most luck with steel line, AN fittings, and stainless braided lines into the bags. True, it's more spendy this way, but what's your time worth to you? Chasing down leaks can eat up a whole weekend.
A majority of valves are held closed by the air pressure in the tank, if your tank has less pressure than the bags, the bags will "equalize" with the tank, and down goes the truck.
Don't get too frustrated, it will all pay off in the end

[Rydn2L0w]

Originally Posted by porterbuilt

It seems most often than not that "air suspension = air leaks"... it doesn't have to be that way! It can be frustrating chasing down a phantom leak. I have had the most luck with steel line, AN fittings, and stainless braided lines into the bags. True, it's more spendy this way, but what's your time worth to you? Chasing down leaks can eat up a whole weekend.
A majority of valves are held closed by the air pressure in the tank, if your tank has less pressure than the bags, the bags will "equalize" with the tank, and down goes the truck.
Don't get too frustrated, it will all pay off in the end

Where do you get your steel lines?

[PBFAB.COM]

Originally Posted by Rydn2L0w

Where do you get your steel lines?

If you want stainless you can get em from inlinetube.com

I get the regular steel line (same they use for brake line and fuel line) from our local auto parts store. The longest length I can get are 5 feet, I just use unions with AN fittings and adapters to go from double flare to the AN fitting. I get those from another local hose supply store.

You can buy the steel line in reels, but it will never look straight.

[Rydn2L0w]

Originally Posted by porterbuilt

If you want stainless you can get em from inlinetube.com

I get the regular steel line (same they use for brake line and fuel line) from our local auto parts store. The longest length I can get are 5 feet, I just use unions with AN fittings and adapters to go from double flare to the AN fitting. I get those from another local hose supply store.

You can buy the steel line in reels, but it will never look straight.

Cool! Thanks!On my s10 im using DOT plastic hoses. Steel would definitely look a lot cleaner. I think I might consider using brake and fuel lines on the suburban. Where do you get the braided steel lines to go from hard lines to the bags?

[TravisH]

Are you using teflon tape on your fittings? If so take it all apart and replace with blue loctite.

I've got my bags holding pressure in the shop right now and my rears haven't lost a pound in 3 weeks. My front one I just put in last night is still at 80 psi so far too.

A leak like you're talking is a very large one and the easiest to locate. What brand of bags are you using? I had (have) some serious problems with airlift. The best way to troubleshoot is to start at the bag and work your way back until you find the leak. Expect that once you plug one leak another will develop, you've just got to keep going until they're all gone.

Be aware that you may have to replace some of your fittings. Its possible you overtightened them either in assembly or trying to fix leaks and they could be causing you grief as well. Good luck

[7deuce]

TravisH what # of blue loctite are you using?

[TravisH]

Originally Posted by 7deuce

TravisH what # of blue loctite are you using?

No number, its Permatex blue threadlocker

[dwcsr]

I switched to copper line with DOT Brass compression fittings that have the long nut. But steel and -AN are just as good.

[PBFAB.COM]

Like dwcsr, copper line will also do the trick. You can also purchase it in reels, but I haven't seen it in straight lengths????

As for the braided line, I have those made at the same hose supply store I purchase the fittings from. There may be a better/cheaper place but I haven't found it yet.

[dwcsr]

The only straight length copper you can buy is to hard for this type of app. If you buy a roll of tube you can roll it out on a long flat surface and get a nearly straight lengths. A little tweaking and its straight to the eye. I used the plastic line for the front bags