Intake bolt sheared off - fix? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

nosto · 08-13-2002, 10:03 AM

So I'm removing my old alternator bracket, getting ready to install the A/C compressor bracket. The bolt located directly in front of the thermostat housing on the Edelbrock Performer manifold sheared off. These bolts must be stainless, they weren't marked any grade, like 5 or 8, but had an 'R' stamped on top (for 'Racer' I suppose?)

Question:
Does anyone know if this bolt goes all the way through the intake (to hold it on), or is it one of those that is just there so you can mount brackets?

Is the procedure to replace, if I really have to, to drill out the center and use an EasyOut?

Is the manifold cast aluminum? Any special precautions?

Thanks,

Gordo · 08-13-2002, 04:04 PM

I doubt if the bolt was stainless if it broke that easy, it could have been a "butter" bolt. I beleive that hole is a blind hole (does not go through). I would grind what ever is showing (if anything) flat to the manifold then carefully center punch the broken bolt as close to center as possible, start with a 1/8 inch drill bit and drill through the bolt keeping it on center and increase the drill size a little at a time until you see you are close to the threads. You can try an easy out but don't push your luck with to much torque or you'll wind up with a broken easy out inside the broken bolt, not good. I would consider going to the parts store and purchasing a heli-coil thread repair kit for that size bolt. This kit will give you instuctions, the proper drill bit , tap and thread insert to do a very nice job of repairing that hole.

palallin · 08-13-2002, 05:16 PM

If you can find one, use a left-hand twist drill bit to drill with (requires a reversing drill, of course). It'll probably turn right out after you bite in deep. If not, you can still keep going up in size as Gordo suggests.

Stepside · 08-13-2002, 07:28 PM

and when you get to the point of the actual removal, left hand bit, or ez-out, heat the area with your propane torch. The heat will make the two different metals act like two different metals

nosto · 08-14-2002, 11:22 AM

Thanks for the advice!

It does look like it's only a blind hole, and since I don't need it to attach anything, I'll leave it alone for now.

08-13-2002, 10:03 AM	#1
nosto Flamin' Bass Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Galloway, NJ, US Posts: 315	Intake bolt sheared off - fix? So I'm removing my old alternator bracket, getting ready to install the A/C compressor bracket. The bolt located directly in front of the thermostat housing on the Edelbrock Performer manifold sheared off. These bolts must be stainless, they weren't marked any grade, like 5 or 8, but had an 'R' stamped on top (for 'Racer' I suppose?) Question: Does anyone know if this bolt goes all the way through the intake (to hold it on), or is it one of those that is just there so you can mount brackets? Is the procedure to replace, if I really have to, to drill out the center and use an EasyOut? Is the manifold cast aluminum? Any special precautions? Thanks, __________________ Rick Olson /nosto/ Galloway, NJ Pics : http://community.webshots.com/user/nosto53 1972 Triumph TR6 - full resto, now with a Toyota 5-speed 1975 F**D F-100 - rusty, but reliable 1982 HD XLH-1000 1967 C-10, shortstep, 350/M21 4spd, nitrogen tank fills fast bags on 4 corners, Toyo 255/45X20s on American Eagle 221 20X8s, shaved locks and handles, antenna, fuel filler, tiny C-notch, rear fuel tank, long headers, Edelbrock, worn 600 Holley, Checkmate flush hard cover, rear pan, custom LED taillights - painted it, too! But don't like it so I'm gonna do it again!!

08-13-2002, 04:04 PM	#2
Gordo Registered User Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Killingworth, CT. USA Posts: 3,378	I doubt if the bolt was stainless if it broke that easy, it could have been a "butter" bolt. I beleive that hole is a blind hole (does not go through). I would grind what ever is showing (if anything) flat to the manifold then carefully center punch the broken bolt as close to center as possible, start with a 1/8 inch drill bit and drill through the bolt keeping it on center and increase the drill size a little at a time until you see you are close to the threads. You can try an easy out but don't push your luck with to much torque or you'll wind up with a broken easy out inside the broken bolt, not good. I would consider going to the parts store and purchasing a heli-coil thread repair kit for that size bolt. This kit will give you instuctions, the proper drill bit , tap and thread insert to do a very nice job of repairing that hole. __________________ 1971 C10 swb stepside 350/700R4/3.73posi (retired as of 4/22/03) 1998 S10 short bed 2002 S10 Blazer 1942 Oldsmobile 1958 Massey Harris Pony 1951 Wife Killingworth, Connecticut May those who love us, love us, any of those who do not love us, may God turn their hearts. And if God is unable to turn their hearts, may he turn their ankles so we may know them by their limping. A man who works with his hands is a laborer; a man who works with his hands and his brain is a craftsman; but a man who works with his hands and his brain and his heart is an artist.

08-13-2002, 05:16 PM	#3
palallin Registered User Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: St. James, MO Posts: 1,238	If you can find one, use a left-hand twist drill bit to drill with (requires a reversing drill, of course). It'll probably turn right out after you bite in deep. If not, you can still keep going up in size as Gordo suggests. __________________ '69 Longstep K-10: 327/SM465/T-221/Closed Knuckle Dana44/12-bolt.

08-13-2002, 07:28 PM	#4
Stepside Gasser Join Date: May 2000 Location: Thomasville,NC USA Posts: 456	and when you get to the point of the actual removal, left hand bit, or ez-out, heat the area with your propane torch. The heat will make the two different metals act like two different metals __________________ :thud 70 sstep tubbed, Muncie, double hump, snowflake,

08-14-2002, 11:22 AM	#5
nosto Flamin' Bass Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Galloway, NJ, US Posts: 315	Thanks for the advice! It does look like it's only a blind hole, and since I don't need it to attach anything, I'll leave it alone for now. __________________ Rick Olson /nosto/ Galloway, NJ Pics : http://community.webshots.com/user/nosto53 1972 Triumph TR6 - full resto, now with a Toyota 5-speed 1975 F**D F-100 - rusty, but reliable 1982 HD XLH-1000 1967 C-10, shortstep, 350/M21 4spd, nitrogen tank fills fast bags on 4 corners, Toyo 255/45X20s on American Eagle 221 20X8s, shaved locks and handles, antenna, fuel filler, tiny C-notch, rear fuel tank, long headers, Edelbrock, worn 600 Holley, Checkmate flush hard cover, rear pan, custom LED taillights - painted it, too! But don't like it so I'm gonna do it again!!



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