Ignition and carb data needed!

[moneyeater]

Next monday i have an appointment on the dyno to find out how much horsepower my engine makes. Before that i´ll go to have the ignition and carb dialed in.I need a database to do that.It runs and idles nice and is nasty when stepping on the pedal but we only dialed that in by ears and eyes!
What does the ignitionadvance has to be and how lean or fat is best for the carb? I have a HEI ignition and a 625 cfm Carter AFB on a Edelbrock performer intake.The cam is new from Crane Cams and has a 222° duration and all relating components are new also like lifters and pushrods.
I hope the dynotest doesn´t ruin the engine and because i won´t have a chance to drive it to much before!
Moneyeater

[Pyrotechnic]

Did Crane Cams have any recommendations for initial and total timing to get you in the ball park ? If you aren't sure, I wouldn't run any more than 32 total centrifugal advance to start with.

Do you have a timing tape on your balancer? If not it is essential for tuning, either that you need a timing light with an advance knob. This is so you can see what your total timing is.

Unscrew your spark plugs and see what they look like. If there's any indication of a lean condition, it doesn't hurt to be a little on the rich side just to be safe.

[Captkaos]

Put a vacuum guage on it and adjust it until you get the highest vacuum reading. Start with about 8 degrees initial and see where the motor likes it.

Having it on the dyno should help you adjust it especially if they are checking AFRs and detonation...

[82c10]

it will be pretty weak

[moneyeater]

Originally Posted by 82c10

it will be pretty weak

What makes you think so?
I did not plan to have a pavement ripping powerplant
just a good looking daily driver!
Do you have a Desktop Dyno to tell me some numbers?

[Billla]

I have to admit that I don't understanding tuning to go to the dyno - the purpose of going to the dyno is to tune! If the dyno shop doesn't offer a baseline run and tuning services (In the US, usually $250 USD or so for the baseline + $100/hour USD for tuning) then you're at the wrong shop IMHO.

[moneyeater]

Originally Posted by Billla

I have to admit that I don't understanding tuning to go to the dyno - the purpose of going to the dyno is to tune! If the dyno shop doesn't offer a baseline run and tuning services (In the US, usually $250 USD or so for the baseline + $100/hour USD for tuning) then you're at the wrong shop IMHO.

I have to go to the dyno to have to have the exact number of horsepower to write in the papers and get the truck registered.The old papers show the numbers fom the 350 diesel that was in originally.
To have it running right and as powerfull as possibleigo andhave the carb and ignition adjusted with a motortester in the shop of a friend.He usually wrenches on VW,Audi,BMW and that electronic stuff.That is why i need the dates to dial it in properly for everyday and the dyno!

[Pyrotechnic]

Does the amount of power the truck makes effect how much you have to pay or make you more prone to getting in trouble ?

[piecesparts]

Something that you can try is to set your idle mixture screws with a vacuum gauge to get the best settings. Look for the highest vacuum reading as you adjust the screws inward and back out. Next; do you know where your vacuum advance is cycling in on your distributor. This would help you decide where you want to run the hose from on the carb, To advance early use the NON ported fitting on the front of the carb, to cycle in slower use the PORTED fitting. I run my timing from a TOTAL advance setting on my 383 stroker motor, it is set for a total advance of 35 degrees, which in my combo has the intial setting pretty high. (For this you will need a timing light with the advance feature). I also have my son's truck set at the total advance setting of 32 degrees and his truck with a 350 runs great.

I am not usre why you would have to do a dyno to get your truck registered. The foreign countries are different, though. You should be able to give them a round house number and they can deal with it from there.

[moneyeater]

To get the registration in Germany you have to have the correct data of everything written in the papers.It shows the measurements of the vehicle the power the amount of people that can be taken with the tires and rims the loadcapacity just every technical data.Otherwise you´re not streetlegal and can´t get a registration.The TÜV inspects the vehicle for safety and legality of the parts you have and everything has to have some papers and legalization for that special vehicle to find it´s way into the registrationpapers.The amount of power also affects the insurence and the displacement of the motor tells how much taxes you have to pay,because of the polution it creates!

[jermasaurus]

Originally Posted by moneyeater

To get the registration in Germany you have to have the correct data of everything written in the papers.It shows the measurements of the vehicle the power the amount of people that can be taken with the tires and rims the loadcapacity just every technical data.Otherwise you´re not streetlegal and can´t get a registration.The TÜV inspects the vehicle for safety and legality of the parts you have and everything has to have some papers and legalization for that special vehicle to find it´s way into the registrationpapers.The amount of power also affects the insurence and the displacement of the motor tells how much taxes you have to pay,because of the polution it creates!

That is NUTS!! They don't look at your vehicle at all here. I dont even do emissions testing.

Feel sorry for you.
Is that just customized vehicles that go through that?

[piecesparts]

Originally Posted by jermasaurus

That is NUTS!! They don't look at your vehicle at all here. I dont even do emissions testing.

Feel sorry for you.
Is that just customized vehicles that go through that?

Agree, that stuff is nuts---I think that Kansas is sounding better all of the time. There is no emissions testing or anything like that here either.

[Ivan D.]

If I were you I'd leave the engine as is and have it dynoed at whatever it makes now - seems to me you'll only pay more in insurance and registration fees if you're making lots of power, and if the engine runs well now they will not have any reasons to suspect you're sandbagging. Then when you're set with the paperwork take it to your friend's shop and diel it in even better, you probably won't see that much of an increase in performance from there so you shouldn't be harassed if you ever get pulled over.

[moneyeater]

Every vehicle has to go thru that procedure doesn´t matter if it is brandnew or 50 years old.If the vehicle is older than 30 years and in original and good shape you can get a historic registration wich is easier to get,but it must be original!
So i´ll never get that for my lowered,shaved,tuned and individualized truck!