starter woes continue

[salazar44]

Man... this is getting frustrating. Since I last replaced my stripped starter bolts, I have started the engine up 3 times throughout the week without any issues. Each time was just for like 3 minutes.

So today I started it and took it for a ride. After parking it on the sidewalk and coming back to it about 1 hour later, I have the same problem! The starter appears to be getting binded on the flywheel and is not turning the engine. Any suggestions????

[rodnok1]

Are you using starter bolts or just bolts. A standard bolt doesn't hold the starter properly, starter bolts have a knurled section that keep starter from moving around. Also do you have a starter support strap? I know the ohters mentioned problem with flexplate already, I would check it again, and be sure to check if you have bent the starter armature when the bolt stripped. Also check for burrs, chipped teeth etc...

[salazar44]

Yes, I am using proper starter bolts. I was hating life with my truck parked in the rocky dirt, i got on my back and slid under with flashlight in hand and put a starter shim in. Got back out from underneath and it started up. Im hoping this type of problem doesnt happen again.

I will look into a starter support strap. Im hoping the starter armature didnt bend! If the problem persist, then I will take it out again and look. Until then, Im afraid to remove it as it is working at this point!

Thanks!

[Sam59]

sounds to me like your starter gear is to close to the flywheel?.. if thats the case then a couple of few shims under the side closest to the block oughta do the trick i think(just cut the regular shim in half), i may have it reversed, but i'm pretty sure that thats right.. i was told that when the gear is engaged that you should be able to fit a 1/8 inch allen wrench in the gap between the teeth.. hope this helps!
-sam

[salazar44]

Yes, I heard that too. My starter actually came with something that looks like a 1/8" drill bit. However, I have no idea hot to check it in its engaged status! Thanks!

[NF65Fleetside]

Hopefully it holds straight now but if not then I got this brand new one still for you patna!

[Sam59]

well i had mine out when i tested it but i;m sure you can do it installed. i would disconnect all the wires going to the starter and get a battery charger and hook up the positive where the battery cable go's and then hook the neg up to the S terminal ( the stud on the starter with the S beside it) i believe, if not then hook it to the other stud which is the ignition. touch a screwdriver to where the battery cable hooks up to the starter and touch the copper on the sylinoid. this should work to engage it.. i hope lol.. good luck!
-sam

[rickf]

Originally Posted by Sam59

well i had mine out when i tested it but i;m sure you can do it installed. i would disconnect all the wires going to the starter and get a battery charger and hook up the positive where the battery cable go's and then hook the neg up to the S terminal ( the stud on the starter with the S beside it) i believe, if not then hook it to the other stud which is the ignition. touch a screwdriver to where the battery cable hooks up to the starter and touch the copper on the sylinoid. this should work to engage it.. i hope lol.. good luck!
-sam

The sort of battery charger most people would have won't put out the amps necessary to turn the engine. You might get the starter gear engaged, but that would be about it. It would probably turn the starter sitting on the work bench, but not installed on the engine. When the starter stalls you'll be charging essentially a short, could be tough on the charger.

I have a 900 CCA battery for my 350, though a 650 amp battery is probably plenty. Most auto battery chargers are 5 to 10 amps, though I do have a 20 amp marine charger and have seen 50 amp marine chargers. Even the 50 probably wouldn't turn an engine on its own.

[63 & 64 Bowties]

Originally Posted by rickf

The sort of battery charger most people would have won't put out the amps necessary to turn the engine. You might get the starter gear engaged, but that would be about it. It would probably turn the starter sitting on the work bench, but not installed on the engine. When the starter stalls you'll be charging essentially a short, could be tough on the charger.

I have a 900 CCA battery for my 350, though a 650 amp battery is probably plenty. Most auto battery chargers are 5 to 10 amps, though I do have a 20 amp marine charger and have seen 50 amp marine chargers. Even the 50 probably wouldn't turn an engine on its own.

I'm pretty sure what Sam59's talking about is testing the throw of the solenoid without turning the starter motor. By shorting to the copper connector on the solenoid only, it will activate the solenoid and not the starter motor, so you can check it without the motor turning. Sam59, correct me if I'm wrong.

[Sam59]

Originally Posted by 63 & 64 Bowties

I'm pretty sure what Sam59's talking about is testing the throw of the solenoid without turning the starter motor. By shorting to the copper connector on the solenoid only, it will activate the solenoid and not the starter motor, so you can check it without the motor turning. Sam59, correct me if I'm wrong.

Yes sir, you are correct

[salazar44]

i still dont see how testing the starter while it is out will let you check for proper alignment on the flywheel?

[NF65Fleetside]

Originally Posted by salazar44

i still dont see how testing the starter while it is out will let you check for proper alignment on the flywheel?

yah, that will just make it jump...aye victor hit me up if you need any help. Im about to try and tap out this broken stud, tried calling you...must be out work'n on your ride too! Maybe if we both get running this evening can catch a beer tomorrow or something.

[salazar44]

Yo Adam... called you back, no answer. Youre right, i was working on the truck. I got the gauges installed and seems to be running between 190 and 200, but that was only for like a 15 minute run.

But dayyam.. that starter is still acting up with 1 shim installed now.

[Thealien]

When you install the starter you remove the torque converter cover. Take that 1/8 guage and slide it between the shaft of the starter gear and the flywheel. If it is just touching no shim is needed. If it is too tight shim the starter. If it is too loose shim just the rear until the guage is just snug between the shaft of the starter and the flywheel.

I also recomend the support for the rear of the starter to the block (summit has one for about $15). Watch how much the starter flexes while starting the engine, the support helps with that.

[salazar44]

i dont think its the flexplate. it all started when the "non starter" bolt worked its way out of my original starter. I then bought a new starter and put in a correct bolt. now it is just not lining up correctly.

[Chevysdominate]

A friend of mine had a similar problem. He ended up having a fracture from the bolt hole to the back of the block. The starter then was allowed to flex out of alignment and caused all kinds of problems. Just an idea i though i would through out there.

[Sam59]

Definately a good idea on the starter support bracket.. You could probably even make one if you wanted to save some money.

[Iron-Butt]

I put the bracket from the starter to the block. My new starter came with a small rod that was used to check the clearance from starter to flywheel. i also installed a new flex plate as the old starter broke off two teeth at the same time failed.