|
04-23-2008, 02:51 AM | #1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: AZ
Posts: 28
|
Drive shafts
I'm looking to convert my 66 2WD I6 4sp to a 350/T350. What do you guys do for a drive shaft? Do I need to get one built or should I be able to source one?
|
04-23-2008, 03:05 AM | #2 |
It's Better With Nitro
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Chino Hills, CA
Posts: 2,262
|
Re: Drive shafts
I'm not a big fan of using or re-using drive shafts from other applications. I've always had a new drive shaft cut to my specs for my projects. I've found that it's not that much more expensive in the long run, and I get exactly the drive shaft I want - I've never had any drive shaft issues. There are some really trick drive shafts available these days - 4130 chromoly, 7075 and 6061 aluminum, etc.
__________________
1963 C-10: Deluxe-optioned cab, shortbed, fleetside Pontiac 462 ci, Kauffman D-Port alum. heads 4L80E, narrowed sheetmetal Ford 9-inch Tubular front and rear suspension Custom 6-piston front disc and 4-piston rear disc brakes Last edited by vin63; 04-23-2008 at 03:16 AM. |
04-23-2008, 06:31 AM | #3 |
Cantankerous Geezer
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Bel Aire, KS
Posts: 6,264
|
Re: Drive shafts
Plus your new shaft comes balanced so it doesn't vibrate. Far better than stock. You should have a shop in your area that can build one for you.
__________________
Fred There is no such thing as too much cam...just not enough engine. |
04-23-2008, 06:55 AM | #4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Kimberley, BC, Canada
Posts: 799
|
Re: Drive shafts
I'm with the other guys on not reusing old junk in this area. However, if you're going from a 4 speed to a TH350, I suspect your shaft will need to be shorter. So, after taking the correct measurement, you can probably have a local shop cut your existing shaft down to the needed length, and have the yoke and 350 slip yoke added. Then have it rebalanced. Driveshaft imbalance problems are maddening to isolate.
__________________
Greg 64 GMC Suburban - 283, NV3500, 14 bolt 77 C10 swb - 292, SM465, 12 bolt |
04-24-2008, 07:17 AM | #5 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: AZ
Posts: 28
|
Re: Drive shafts
Quote:
|
|
04-24-2008, 10:12 PM | #6 |
Cantankerous Geezer
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Bel Aire, KS
Posts: 6,264
|
Re: Drive shafts
When I was in high school there were some who cut their own shafts. I cannot recommend anyone try this!
Start by making a cradle with a pair of straight 2x4's. A vee setup with notches the clear the u-joints. To shorten, cut right next to a collar. Then cut the length no needed from the tube. Place the parts in the cradle, and tack. Then eyeball and adjust to straighten before welding. To lengthen, you neede two shafts. Cut one like above. Then cut the end of the other shaft with the length of tube you need to add. Place in cradle, straighten and weld. We had one guy who was pretty good, but he also had to do some balancing after installing the shaft. I'm telling this to show how much things have changed in the last 40 years. We did this kind of work with hacksaws, files and stick welders. We also had a lot of part failures. Thankfully most of us didn't get hurt too bad.
__________________
Fred There is no such thing as too much cam...just not enough engine. |
04-25-2008, 03:44 AM | #7 |
Hey Y'all!!
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Bay Minette, Alabama
Posts: 1,755
|
Re: Drive shafts
I also have done this in the past with no major catastrophes but couldn't say that I would recommend this procedure either. It did what it needed to do to get me by for a little while, but that was it.
|
04-25-2008, 05:20 AM | #8 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: peculiar mo
Posts: 219
|
Re: Drive shafts
two weeks ago I had a driveshaft shortened ,new ujoints, and balanced for $115 I cant see taking a chance doing it yourself when you can have it done this cheap.
|
Bookmarks |
|
|