A hair-brained idea?

[mateo1279]

So, this may sound idiotic to some but.....


I was wondering if one could remove the torsion bars and just stuff some springs between the control arms (or something).

I ask because I have seen people post regarding airbag suspension swaps using this location for the bags, I was wondering if I could do the same thing and just use coil springs?

Trying to weigh out all my options... I don't have the $$$ to do a full front end swap from a later model (actual front end, rebuild, master/booster for disks= big $$)

Thanks

Matt

[tonythezeek]

when i was pulling my torsion bars off last week I asked myself that same question. unfortunately, i don't know the answer but it looks like it could be done. I guess anything is possible with a blowtorch and a bit of creativity.

[slepysal]

you would need diffrent a arms.

[protrash64]

What about adding some coil-overs? Fab up some mounts and you cuold have a nice streetrod front suspension. I dont know about low-buck however. I see coil-overs on the Phx area Craigslist occasionly.

[scotts62]

Do they even have the pocket under the crossmember for a spring? I dont remember on mine its been a few years.. i got a whole crossmember for $125 wheel to wheel

[guzzidude]

My Frankenstein has leaf springs... So I can't make a good comment. I think my frame is an early 60's GMC something...

[protrash64]

Scotts62: I think it would work, you can bag 'em so there is something to push against. I just dont own one so Im not familiar.

[joe231]

just look up
or here LINKY

[mateo1279]

Sorry guys, maybe I wasn't clear. Here is my goal:

Get rid of the Torsion bar front end the cheapest way possible.

The idea I started off this post with (cram coil springs between the a-arms)may not work due to the geometry of the vehicle (the a arm issue mentioned above)...though so serious fab work might make it happen, probably not worth the time (plus I am so-so on the true custom fab work)

That being the case I will start doing homework on the 77-89 (dont remeber the correct years off hand) front crossmember swap and see how we're looking. If anyone has some words of wisdom feel free to send em my way (PM or add on here)

Thanks as always!

-Matt

[mnky30]

i have a 60 frame and did the cross from tortion bar front end to a 80 3/4 ton front end and it is as easy as taking old bolts out and redrilling some new holes and installing the hole front x member.

[mnky30]

and one more i aslo used the motor mounts from the 80 doner truck and cut 1 coil out of front springs and used the front sway bar front the 80

[71Farmtruck]

That's bad ass, that's the way to do it.

[mateo1279]

Well shoot.... those pics speak for themselves! That looks pretty simple. One question: This could be done with the engine in and the body on, right? That 1st pic I shows the bolt locations... I think I could get to them on the frame from the engine bay (unless I am missing something), but it looks like the engine rests on the cross memeber. I need to go get uner the truck tomorow and investigate!

How did all the accesories hook back in, easily? I have PS and drum breaks (single master), what did you start with?

Thanks for those pics!

Matt

[joe231]

the engine sits on the cross member, plus it is easier to get to everything with the engine out.
you could probably raise the engine with a hoist and get it done also, if you don't want to pull it all thee way out

do you currently have power brakes?
you have converted power steering? or original power assist?

[mateo1279]

I don't have power breaks, I have drums (which are practically flinstones breaks)
I think I have original power assist. I have a resivour/pulley connceted to the engine, with hoses that run to the box

[mateo1279]

oh, and my master (no booster) looks like a matchbox

[mnky30]

i think you could do it with the cab on no problem but the engine would have to be lifted or removed and all the accessories brake lines i welded a tab on the frame to mount them and then just got some new brake line and rerouted it to a porportion valve on the frame. the steering i used the original idler arm from the 60 and the rest hooked up to my power steering box i mounted from the 80 frame.

[tonythezeek]

Lifting the engine up will work but I'm finding that it gets in the way sometimes. At one point, I had a ratchet look more like a snake than a tool

[mateo1279]

Ok... so if I am doing my math right....

pulling engine + pulling front crossmember = less overall work and aggrivation then slightly lifting the engine and trying to work around it.

[502tripower]

Originally Posted by mateo1279

Ok... so if I am doing my math right....

pulling engine + pulling front crossmember = less overall work and aggrivation then slightly lifting the engine and trying to work around it.

If you are to the point of lifting the engine you are 95% to having it out. It just makes seance to remove the engine to perform the work. Also this gives you the opportunity to detail you engine or address any other issues. Your best bet it to locate a donor truck 73'-87 1/2 ton or up to 91' 3/4. They all used the same X member but the 3/4 used the big spindle and brakes. You can use everything off of the donor including the master cylinder whether it be power or manual. These trucks are fairly easy to come up with for little or nothing.

[mateo1279]

Well guys, it looks like I have my answer. Once the holidays are done I will start looking for a 73-87 3/4 ton donor truck (might as well get the better breaks). Pulling the enigine will be good as I can also clean up my firewall and really give everything a good cleaning.

Thanks for the tips guys, this is the best site ever!

-Matt

[joe231]

yep