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12-13-2002, 02:11 AM
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#1 |
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Collector of rusty Items
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Sisters,Oregon USA
Posts: 731
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Slammin' doors
Greetings y'all
I usually hang out at the 72 board, but I just bought an 86, 1-ton 4x4 from the Phoenix schools dept. The doors are really tough to close and they whistle a lot. How do you adjust them? The clear plastic is about gone from the pin in the door well, I figure that is a no brainer, but I don't know about the other problems. I have heard someone mention repinning the hinges. How does that work? FYI I don't live in Phoenix, I picked this up on e-bay and drove it to Oregon. Diesel with 456 axles. Average speed with stops, 43 mph... for 1200 miles... Yawn.. If it wasn't for the wild variety of scenery in Arizona, I might have gotten bored.... I actually passed a cement truck on a hill and another rig that had goats in the back seat... and the goats were grazing! Any help would be greatly appreciated
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Scrub Sisters, Oregon - Home of the Sisters Rodeo. 70 GMC 1,000,000 + miles 72 K-20 project, 456 Dana60 front, Corp14 rear w/locker, 265R19.5 tires 20-ply. Warn 12k winches both ends, Cross-over steering with raised tie-rod, Powerbox steering, 4500 watt 120-AC power, Air, Hydraulic aux power, 4 inch lift, 5000 lb air-bags both ends. |
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12-13-2002, 09:45 AM
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#2 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Houston
Posts: 300
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I put some hinge pins in a '77 Silverado I had a long time ago. On mine there were brass bushings on the top and bottom of the hinge, had to pry the old ones out and tap the new ones in with a hammer before installing the new pins. Don't know if they still have them, but bought the new pins and bushings in a package together in the HELP section at the parts store. I supported the door with my floor jack, allowed me to move it around and raise it up and down as needed.
Glad to see this post though. My doors are slammers too on my current truck. Looks like I may need adjustment in addition to new pins. It looks to me like you would adjust in/out motion on the door half of the hinge (in other words, how deep the door sits in the body), and front to back motion (looking at the closed door) on the body half of the hinge. But looks like you would have to have to pull the fender to get at the hinge bolts on the body half of the hinge. And even if you do, are the holes slotted for adjjustment? Anxious to see the responses you get...
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Paul 1984 Chevy C-10 *LWB/305* |
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12-13-2002, 11:08 AM
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#3 |
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Shadetree Mechanic
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Youngsville, NC
Posts: 100
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Before you do any adjusting, replace the plastic on the latch pins and the bushings on the door hinge pins.
You will need to remove the doors to replace the hinge pins and bushing, just use a marker to outline the hinge locations and replace them exactly as they are now. Only after updating the parts should you try to adjust. Believe me the door will most likely work fine without adjustment if you install the new parts.
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Dave M. (Hacksaw) 86 C10 Scottsdale LWB, 4.3L, Edelbrock 1904, K&N, 700R4, 3.08 Auburn Performance 89 GMC S-15 Extended Cab 4x4, 4.3L, FI 98 K1500 Xcab, 5.7L, 3.43 Gov-Lok |
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12-13-2002, 11:30 AM
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#4 |
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Insert Witty Text Here
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 3,415
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The door strikers, or whatever the thing the door latches to, is available in the HELP section in auto parts stores.
Slonaker |
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