Cab interior seam welding/fill question - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Tri5Nerd · 04-17-2009, 05:47 PM

So now I welding/filling all the seams in the cab I got all seams welded and covered with filler, don't ever buy cheap filler! too damn hard to work with.
Question, should I fill the seems by the door top pillar on the the cab and also the long one by the back of the door where the striker is?
Tri5

PDW HOTRODS · 04-17-2009, 08:31 PM

I wouldn't fill those seams unless you boxed the frame. If the frame is not boxed it will twist, and if there is no flex in the cab, things could crack. If the frame is boxed, it should be rigid and the suspension shoul take all the twist.

Tri5Nerd · 04-17-2009, 09:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PDW HOTRODS

I wouldn't fill those seams unless you boxed the frame. If the frame is not boxed it will twist, and if there is no flex in the cab, things could crack. If the frame is boxed, it should be rigid and the suspension shoul take all the twist.

OK, more work to do now! I just have the middle section of the frame to box if I need to do it.

Tri5

OrrieG · 04-18-2009, 12:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PDW HOTRODS

I wouldn't fill those seams unless you boxed the frame. If the frame is not boxed it will twist, and if there is no flex in the cab, things could crack. If the frame is boxed, it should be rigid and the suspension shoul take all the twist.

He is right especially if you use these off road. The frames and bodys are designed to give a little (frame actually quite a lot) that is one reason they are riveted. On mine I have cracked the welds at the bottom of the windshield A pillar from having diagonal wheels up high and the frame racked. Never did figure out how the windshield stayed intact. I have decided to just leave all of my seams and gaps (like at the door sill/fender and sill/rear cab corner) alone, less work now and in the future. BUT I think if you are going for the smooth look you should do them all. For just cruising and around town it should be OK.

PDW HOTRODS · 04-19-2009, 12:46 PM

On my 53 with stock door latches, the cab could twist enough to make the latch miss the striker and the door could come open. This was rare, but just pulling into parking lots will twist the cab.

04-17-2009, 05:47 PM	#1
Tri5Nerd Tripple Five Fanatic Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: USA Posts: 658	Cab interior seam welding/fill question So now I welding/filling all the seams in the cab I got all seams welded and covered with filler, don't ever buy cheap filler! too damn hard to work with. Question, should I fill the seems by the door top pillar on the the cab and also the long one by the back of the door where the striker is? Tri5 Attached Images

04-17-2009, 08:31 PM	#2
PDW HOTRODS Registered User Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Sutherlin Oregon Posts: 502	Re: Cab interior seam welding/fill question I wouldn't fill those seams unless you boxed the frame. If the frame is not boxed it will twist, and if there is no flex in the cab, things could crack. If the frame is boxed, it should be rigid and the suspension shoul take all the twist.

04-19-2009, 12:46 PM	#5
PDW HOTRODS Registered User Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Sutherlin Oregon Posts: 502	Re: Cab interior seam welding/fill question On my 53 with stock door latches, the cab could twist enough to make the latch miss the striker and the door could come open. This was rare, but just pulling into parking lots will twist the cab.



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