Fuel Cell Location

[BrentRS1985]

so I'm about to put a whole new fuel system in my truck (fuel cell, holley black, steel braided fuel line) and I'm trying to figure out where I want to cut the hole in the bed for the fuel cell. I was thinking as far back as possible while still being protected by the frame rails. Also, I remember hearing that the fuel cell needs to be grounded, do I just run a ground wire to the frame? Do I need to ground an aluminum fuel cell? Where on the fuel cell do I put the ground wire?
Any help is appreciated, thanks!

[z400rider8787]

Im sure that if you have to ground the cell it will have a stud or something simmilar to ground with, Im sure you do if you have a sending unit, otherwise it could cause a spark, and spark plus gas=not good. and yes any good chassis ground would work, the shorter the better. Im putting mine where the spare tire would have mounted between the most rearward crossmembers. the only thing you would have to worry about with going farther back than that could possibly interfere with your bumper brackets or even scrape depending on depth of the tank and your ride height. as for the hole in the bed, you need to put it right above the filler hole in the cell. Hope this helps

[BrentRS1985]

I didn't plan on putting the fuel cell under the bed, I was going to put it in the bed. Oh, and no sending unit.

[jgh64pkup]

is the cell polyethylene, aluminum, or stainless steel

[BrentRS1985]

aluminum

[jgh64pkup]

alright be sure and ground it
im planning on mounting mine above the bed once i get it done so maybe this thread will be helpful to the both of us

[z400rider8787]

ya what he said, make sure you ground it, and if you are mounting it in the bed and no sending unit install will be a piece of cake

[Marv D]

Guys think about this,,, unless he mounts it on rubber bushings and uses nylon bolts, the aluminum cell will be grounded when he bolts it to the bed. The big ststic problem arrises from a poly cell and that metal ring around the cap. We've all shuffled arcoss a synthetic based carpet and seen the static charge leave our body to some metal object. THAT'S the same static charge that happens with a poly cell. You touch that meal ring around the fill cap and KABOOM. That's why the ground is required.

General Reg section 19. 1:5

bla bla bla... "Non metalic fuel cells or tanks must be grounded to the frame."

[jgh64pkup]

what if he has a wood bed he would have to ground it to the frame wouldnt he

[BrentRS1985]

Originally Posted by Marv D

Guys think about this,,, unless he mounts it on rubber bushings and uses nylon bolts, the aluminum cell will be grounded when he bolts it to the bed. The big ststic problem arrises from a poly cell and that metal ring around the cap. We've all shuffled arcoss a synthetic based carpet and seen the static charge leave our body to some metal object. THAT'S the same static charge that happens with a poly cell. You touch that meal ring around the fill cap and KABOOM. That's why the ground is required.

General Reg section 19. 1:5

bla bla bla... "Non metalic fuel cells or tanks must be grounded to the frame."

thats the info I was looking for, thanks!

[PA-IndianRider]

I will be mounting a new "poly" 16 gallon fuel cell in the bed of my G-Body El Camino (one of these days...ha!!!).

The cell has a 2" sump so I will have to cut the bed to mount it properly in the bed so it sits flush. I also picked up the mounting straps that go with the cell (a Craigs list find) so mounting it should be pretty straight forward.

All I have to do is decide exactly where in the bed I should mount it.

My El Camino is NOT a 100% race car.... it will actually see more time on the street than the drag strip. But in true "hot rodder fashion" I still want that "drag strip look" for this latest of my street/strip projects.

Which brings me to a question about mounting this fuel cell ..... what would be a nice "street/strip" fuel pump/filter setup to use??? Something that will serve me well on the street (during ALL kinds weather conditions) and also during my occasional trips to the drag strip and also "look the part" as well.

[BrentRS1985]

holley electric pumps are notorious for being very noisy if you don't want to listen to it all the time. I went with a holley b/c my truck is louder than the pump so I'm not worried about noise.

[jgh64pkup]

Originally Posted by BrentRS1985

holley electric pumps are notorious for being very noisy if you don't want to listen to it all the time. I went with a holley b/c my truck is louder than the pump so I'm not worried about noise.

my holley pump is loud as hell until i start it up then you cant hear it

[Marv D]

Yeah, If he bolted to the wood he sure would I guess. But he has a 69

[Marv D]

I've been running a Mallory Comp 140, Mallory comp filter, and deadhead regulator, and an-6 line on the truck for about 9 years. Used a identical system on the Nova for a number of years when it was a 10.50 car. So they will supply a small block up to ~600 HP and still be nice and street quiet. Because fo the gerotor design and aluminum housing / steel gear, they do not take kindly to running dry. If possible make the cell gravity feed the filter and pump. Oh, and a 1/2" pipe ball-valve is a handy addition between the cell and filter if you do make it a gravity feed system.

[Nolowrider]

Marv-When you said that the you ran a "deadhead" regulator, did you mean that it is a regulator to prevent "deadhead" or just a plain jane regulator?

I am doing the whole fuel cell, electric pump thing right now. I just sent back a 140 gph pump (14 psi) and went with a 120 gph (6.5 psi). Those bypass regulator are kind of pricey.

[Marv D]

No. I really meant it was a Jerry Garcia fan.

LOL You youngins who don't know who the GreatfullDead was probably won't see the humor on that.

A 'non- return' style regulator is generally termed a 'deadhead'. There are a lot of things you can say is wrong with a deadhead regulator,,, but the few things you can say is 'right' about them is... they are cheap, and they work.

Just my 2 cents, but until you get up above the 550-600HP level,, OR if your using some sort of artifical HP (N20, blowers etc) ,, you don't need to get all 'overkill' into a fuel system. THAT IS, unless your looking at the faster faster faster syndrome where you will eventually outgrow every component you buy. Then OVERKILL is the smartest purchase.

[Nolowrider]

I know very well who the Greatful Dead are. I spent ALOT of time in Haight/Ashbury district of San Francisco growing up in the bay area. Some I remember and some I don't.

I am very close to that point, if not slightly over (HP wise), especially with the 200 shot of NOS on dual carbs.

[Marv D]

If your running a dedicated fuel system for the nitrous (highly recomended especially with a 200 shot) I'd suggest you use a return style regulator for that side. A deadhead regulator stops the fuel and meters it out at 6psi (or whatever you set psi at) . A return style regulator constantly has high pressure fuel circulating in the system, and 'diverts' fuel at the 6psi to the carb / N2o solenoid, etc. It's a more 'stable' pressure.

In a deadhead system it takes time for the fuel to start moving, but the liquid N20 has 200+psi pushing it through the N20 supply line. So delivery of the N2o is instantanious, where with a deadhead regulator the enrichment fuel has to get moving, in which drops fuel pressure to near zero at the hit of the button.

A deadhead system is no issue with a carb where you have float bowls actually hold the fuel and all your doing is filling them back up. But in a N20 system,, I'd sure suggest you consider a good reliable return style fuel system.
But again, just my 2 cents

[Nolowrider]

Never had a problem running a 1 gallon cell w/ a small electric fuel pump for the nitrous. Arming the nitrous system turns the pump on. Works great.

I am running a "deadhead" regulator for the engine.

Just upgrading the whole fuel system.

Trying to figure out a way to run the nitrous off the mech pump with fuel from the stock tank and the engine off the cell. Shouldn't be that difficult.

Never liked the 1 gallon cell under the hood, but it worked.

[djracer]

I think that means your truck is louder than hell.

[jgh64pkup]

i figured it would be louder than it is
it has delta forces on it and is quieter than a single super 44

[z400rider8787]

If you want loud go with the flowmaster single chambers, they sound SICK if you can deal with the noise in the cab

[PA-IndianRider]

I have a catback dual exhaust system made by "Pypes" .... makes the V6 sound like a V8.... wonder how much louder it'll be when I swap the V8 in later this Summer.

I like LOUD!!!! : O )

[Marv D]

Originally Posted by PA-IndianRider

I have a catback dual exhaust system made by "Pypes" .... makes the V6 sound like a V8.... wonder how much louder it'll be when I swap the V8 in later this Summer.

I like LOUD!!!! : O )

I put the stainless Pypes StreetPro dual system on my Camino. Aside from it being a 'custom fit made to order' package that requires sawz-all, welder and considerable fabrication skills,, I LIKE it. I didn't want loud, I wanted that early 70's muscle car 'mild growl'. With shortie headers, 2.5" duals through the StreetPro's and tail piles out the rear bumper,... It has plenty of tone at the rear, but inside you roll up the windows and she is nice and quiet. (Maybe that's what 3 boxes of Dynomat will do for ya )

With having 3" eaxaust and 3" flowmaster 40's onthe truck,, maybe it's not that quiet,, I've just been deafened by resonance in the cab!