Started making my wishbone

[Tri5Nerd]

Tell me what you think of the construction.
Tubing is 1.25" OD, .25" wall DOM.
Angle is 47* at the front and 19" to the 50* bends.

I need to cut about 3" off the part that will sit on the axle.
Did this is welding class tonight using the tube notcher and bender and TIG.
Third time using the TIG, been doing more Gas and stick, stick is hard to do overhead.

I'll make some gussets and brackets to go on the axle next week.
What size bushings should I get for this setup?

Tri5

[six5]

Looks good. Keep the pictures coming....!!!

[Tri5Nerd]

Thanks. I called suicidedoors today to purchase bushings and they were completely out, does any other vendor here have the weld on 2.50" bushings?

And can someone tell me what size threaded bushing I would need to work with my setup?

Tri5

[six5]

Just purchase the poly bushings from S'Doors and use DOM pipe for the bushing sleeve.

Check out my build section in my signature and you will see what I used......

[Tri5Nerd]

Originally Posted by six5

Just purchase the poly bushings from S'Doors and use DOM pipe for the bushing sleeve.

Check out my build section in my signature and you will see what I used......

Looked at your build section and wow that Impala is sweet! The truck is not bad either,
So your final tube size was 2.5" OD? Now I'm wondering if 1.5" OD is too small for my wishbone?

I see what you're saying about getting the bushing and using 2" DOM to make them.

Tri5

[six5]

Thanks for the compliments on the Impala.....

2.5" is what I used for my wishbone. I am putting a 650 HP 502 big block in my truck so bigger is better in my case. If you have a gusset across your wishbone in the center I am sure the 1.5" will be more than strong enough. But I am sure there will be a few guys that tell you need a larger diameter pipe. The wishbone is easy enough to make again if you need to change it to a larger pipe size later.

[LONGHAIR]

A sliding wishbone is not taking any of the power, so how much you are making really doesn't matter....It is just there to keep the wheels centered in the frame. The link bars or ladder bars are taking the engine load/thrust.
The smaller tubing should be just fine.

[six5]

The wishbone does more than just keep the wheels centered. It also maintains the pinion angle which is constantly trying change through out the suspension travel. Both lower control arms and the wishbone have considerable amount of forces being applied at various times.

[Tri5Nerd]

Good to hear that the current wishbone will work, I'm thinking I'll use the misalingment heim joint setup for the front. I know where to get them but I don't know what size to get.

Should I get .995 OD threaded insert with .75 threads?
And the .75" RH threaded heim joint?

Tri5

[LONGHAIR]

Originally Posted by six5

The wishbone does more than just keep the wheels centered. It also maintains the pinion angle which is constantly trying change through out the suspension travel. Both lower control arms and the wishbone have considerable amount of forces being applied at various times.

If you re-read my post, I said "sliding" wishbone, which is a centering device only. It works with a 4-link or even the stock style 2-link set-up. In either of these cases, the links themselves take the entire "drive" load.
What you are talking about here is effectively a 3-link that also maintains center, rather than using a panhard bar or a watts link.

From the pics and discription of the OP, you can't tell what he is building here......

[six5]

Originally Posted by LONGHAIR

If you re-read my post, I said "sliding" wishbone, which is a centering device only. It works with a 4-link or even the stock style 2-link set-up. In either of these cases, the links themselves take the entire "drive" load.
What you are talking about here is effectively a 3-link that also maintains center, rather than using a panhard bar or a watts link.

From the pics and discription of the OP, you can't tell what he is building here......

Thanks for "your" clarification....... LOL

But it is pretty obvious he is not building a "sliding wishbone". And indeed is building a centered wishbone.

Tri5 keep up the good work.

[Tri5Nerd]

Here's what I will be doing next time in class. I'll make the gusset using .24" plate and add a tube accross the vertical tube, I can't notch that tube now that it's already welded, then cut and make the tubes for the bushing, they are going to be 2" OD, .25" wall by 3" long chrome moly tubes, is that too long for my tubes?

I also started making templates for my axle brackets, these will go on top of the axle.

[Thorbecke Bros.]

Originally Posted by Tri5Nerd

Here's what I will be doing next time in class. I'll make the gusset using .24" plate and add a tube accross the vertical tube, I can't notch that tube now that it's already welded, then cut and make the tubes for the bushing, they are going to be 2" OD, .25" wall by 3" long chrome moly tubes, is that too long for my tubes?

I also started making templates for my axle brackets, these will go on top of the axle.

make your tubes 2.5" long. the bushing flanges are usually .25" thick which will give you 3" total width when the bushings are installed.



edit: didnt see twisteds post

[Twisted Minis]

^ Sounds like it will work. A 3/4" rod end should be big enough for normal street driving.

For the bushings, I use Prothane and stock them in 1.75" Chromoly. You can get them through Jegs or other suspension restoration places. They are generic Pivot bushings and come in a few sizes.

On the wishbone, I would add some gussets at the union you have there. Also, next time you should clean the tube before TIG welding, and also regrind the tungsten when you dip. That aggressive brown haze is from contamination.

[Tri5Nerd]

Originally Posted by Twisted Minis

^ Sounds like it will work. A 3/4" rod end should be big enough for normal street driving.

For the bushings, I use Prothane and stock them in 1.75" Chromoly. You can get them through Jegs or other suspension restoration places. They are generic Pivot bushings and come in a few sizes.

On the wishbone, I would add some gussets at the union you have there. Also, next time you should clean the tube before TIG welding, and also regrind the tungsten when you dip. That aggressive brown haze is from contamination.

Thanks for the tips, I should know better to clean the tubes before doing any welding but I just wanted to get her started.
I'll add gussets at the union, should the gussets sit on top or in the middle of the tubes?

One more question, I plan on making my notch from 2x4", 1/8" wall rectangle tubes, what is the best degree to make the cuts on the horizontal piece?

Tri5

[Twisted Minis]

Something similar to this would be fine.


For the notches, I generally cut each piece at 34 degrees for a total of 68 at the joint. But really anything between 60 and 70 degrees total will look fine. I just found one number that I like best.

[Tri5Nerd]

If I make the total notch of 6" of travel from axle to bottom of the notch will that be enough for 31" wheels?

It doesn't have to lay frame just get down ~3" from the ground at the door.
What's the length of the horizontal 2x4"?

Thanks for all the info guys.

Tri5

[Twisted Minis]

You will have to measure yourself for the axle's travel. I am not really sure.

The bottom side of the horizontal piece is 6.5". Not sure on the top side.

[Twisted Minis]

I generally use a 2.5" long tube for the bushing, so that the bushing itself ends up being 3" wide. Remember to use an inner crush sleeve about .010" under the bushings overall width, and make sure it's of decent thickness (.083 or better 1020 DOM or 4130 ChrMo).

[Tri5Nerd]

Originally Posted by Twisted Minis

I generally use a 2.5" long tube for the bushing, so that the bushing itself ends up being 3" wide. Remember to use an inner crush sleeve about .010" under the bushings overall width, and make sure it's of decent thickness (.083 or better 1020 DOM or 4130 ChrMo).

Twisted,
Can you tell me what's a inner crush sleeve? I'm a little lost on that one.
I ordered the bushings from S'doors, do they have the crush sleeves?

Thanks
Tri5

[Thorbecke Bros.]

if you ordered this in 3" your all set. the crush sleeve is the inner tube that goes inside the poly.

[IMG]http://www.*****************/files/4-Link_Weld_on_Bar_Ends_0.jpg[/IMG]


if you ordered this (below) in 3" your all set.

[IMG]http://www.*****************/files/Poly_Bushing_for_4-Link_End_0.jpg[/IMG]

[Tri5Nerd]

So, I got my heim joint in but am wondering If I got the correct joint, does this look like the misalinged joint? It's listed as a Trunnion ball joint.
I also started the notch, I need to make the gussets and weld them on.
Will post pics as I make progress.

[ShowSS12]

Originally Posted by Tri5Nerd

So, I got my heim joint in but am wondering If I got the correct joint, does this look like the misalinged joint? .

I want to say ya it is, thats why its spaced out on the sides which is basically for more travel.... But I could be wrong...

[Twisted Minis]

Do you want an honest welding opinion?

Make sure you have enough room for a jam nut on that rod end. You can seize the threads if you don't run one.

[Tri5Nerd]

Originally Posted by Twisted Minis

Do you want an honest welding opinion?

Make sure you have enough room for a jam nut on that rod end. You can seize the threads if you don't run one.

Yes, opinions and feedback of what I should do and how to do it will only make me do better next time.

I'll get a jam nut for the rod end.

Thanks