Headers hit the motor mounts

[MisterE72]

I got the engine and transmission on the truck yesterday. The headers are rubbing a little on the motor mounts though. Any possible solutions with pics? I'm not sure if cutting the mounts a little will do more harm than good. Also, the angle of the engine seems wrong: its looks to slope back too much. I'm thinking its because of the tubular transmission crossmember. How does it look to you guys?

[GruntMoanCough]

From the pics kinda looks sloped back to me, as you say.

[69GMCLonghorn]

Originally Posted by GruntMoanCough

From the pics kinda looks sloped back to me, as you say.

I agree. I think the headers hitting is a byproduct of the angle of the engine being off. That could cause oiling problems at the front of the engine in the long run, althought it's not a severe angle.

Sidenote to nothing (and yet another good reason to buy a CHEVY): Look at the engine in an early 60's Lincoln Continental. The 430 CID was built so the block was tilting back (like yours but a more severe angle), but the pistons, etc were LEVEL so oiling/lubrication was not an issue. Then, of course, the transmission was specific to those cars as well, and was built with the opposite angle so the innerds sat level, but the case was at an angle to meet the engine. They did this so everything would clear the firewall. Funky a** FORD set up that only lasted a couple years.

[my67chevytruck]

MR E. any pic of the Trans mount and the way its mounted on the frame.

[MisterE72]

Originally Posted by my67chevytruck

MR E. any pic of the Trans mount and the way its mounted on the frame.

Here are some pics. Thanks

[turp mcspray]

A stock set up does have a downward slope to it. If all else fails wrap some tape around a socket and hammer a smooth dimple in it. I know, a guy hates to do it, but it wouldn't be the first time headers didn't quite fit without a little massageing.

[dimkapdx]

I had the same exact problem with my 454. You are not going to like the answer, but I had to custom fabricate/improvise using the current mounts. I cut the mounts and the top is now mounted underneath the top of the frame rail, rather than on top. This was a good day's work, but no more clearance issues.

[JDL]

try putting a spacer between the trans mount and the trans.

[MisterE72]

Hey guys, my friend suggested moving the motor mounts back to the next set of holes seen here. Has anyone done that? Will the distibutor clear? He suggested it because the right header also hits the frame.

[mclairmo]

I agree with JDL, try to shim that trans mount, unless doing so would cause interference with the trans hump in the cab or cause your fan to hit the shroud or crank pulley to rub on the crossmember. I think that is highly unlikely though, there should be plenty of room. If you need to dimple the header, heat it up first with a propane torch in the area you need to dimple it before hitting with a hammer/socket. I also wonder if the CPP tubular engine frame mount brackets might fit better.

[mr48chev]

Lay a level on the top of the intake (where the carb mounts) and then see how much you have to shim the trans mount to get the carb mount level. From here it looks like the back of the trans needs to come up maybe a quarter of an inch or more.

[MisterE72]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

Lay a level on the top of the intake (where the carb mounts) and then see how much you have to shim the trans mount to get the carb mount level. From here it looks like the back of the trans needs to come up maybe a quarter of an inch or more.

By lifting the tranny about 3/4 in. it starts to look better. My buddy Rudy tells me the engine is not suppose to be level. Can someone check and let me know? Also If you have a small block, can someone measure how much space is between the firewall and the center of the distributor shaft. Thanks. PS: My buddies car.

[john02fxdl]

Had same issue with mine. I found mine to be too low in the tailshaft when I was installing the driveshaft through my extreme drop crossmember. I'm also running a mechanical fan/fan clutch w/ factory shroud. By me shimming the tailshaft up about 1/2 inch, my fan now sits center in the shroud and the driveshaft has no clearance issues. When you do shim it, make sure to compensate for your tranny mount bolts. Make sure they are longer. This should also move your headers up, maybe up enough to clear those mounts. To answer your question about moving the mounts back, not really that easy. You'll have to find 6 cyl mounts or V8 4x4 mounts for it to work. Your stock V8 2wd mounts only fit in the front holes due to angle and alignment of holes in crossmember. Been there, done that.

[GruntMoanCough]

Yes, the engine should slope back but, as mr48chev says, check to see if the carb mount is level.
Also, I wonder if there is a thicker trans mount available.

[MisterE72]

[QUOTE=GruntMoanCough;3378146]Yes, the engine should slope back but, as mr48chev says, check to see if the carb mount is level.
Also, I wonder if there is a thicker trans mount available.[/QUIn order to get the carb level, I need to raise the tranny about 2 inches.

[Todd Hepler]

I have this same problem with a set of craigslist dynomax headers - too goo a deal to pass up!

Mine lay on top of the motor mount bracket and need about an 1/8" to clear. I'm going to shim the motor mount up by a couple of washers and all should be well

Todd

[Hart_Rod]

Here's a good article on setting the carb angle:

http://www.hotrodheaven.com/tech/cha...ngle_index.htm

Before I put that large of spacer in there, I would cut the mount off, flip it over and reweld it. That should get you pretty close and will probably cost about the same as a newer mount. Plus, it's the right way to do it, . Good luck.

[Tx Firefighter]

I'd build some spacers out of square tubing to put between the trans crossmember and the frame rail. This would raise the trans up the desired 2 inches and you wouldn't have to modify your expensive crossmember by redoing the mount plate on it.

[MisterE72]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

I'd build some spacers out of square tubing to put between the trans crossmember and the frame rail. This would raise the trans up the desired 2 inches and you wouldn't have to modify your expensive crossmember by redoing the mount plate on it.

I mocked up the location of the driveshaft in relation to the rear crossmember when I raise the tranny 2 inches , and I only have 1 1/2" of space. How much space do I need? Again, remember i still have no cab or bed which will add weight and lower the truck.

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

I'd build some spacers out of square tubing to put between the trans crossmember and the frame rail. This would raise the trans up the desired 2 inches and you wouldn't have to modify your expensive crossmember by redoing the mount plate on it.

That's some nice out of the box thinking Kevin!

[Tx Firefighter]

I don't know a good answer to that question. On my beater, it rubs the crossmember periodically. Not good, but never caused me any problems. At rest, it's less than an inch from the crossmember.

[jbristo67]

look at the front tube on my headers they clear the mount by a mile

[shortbed70]

If you do raise thetrans might want to see about trans tunnel clearence

[100mph]

I can't quite tell from your pictures but when I bought my truck the 402 BB was sitting a quite an angle as well. It was pushed up in the front so far that the tranny was almost hitting the firewall

I had to find a smaller/shorter mounter mount and it corrected the angle but I'm still building so I can't say on the header clearance but have lots of room at the firewall now too

[MisterE72]

I'm considering getting the CPP tubular motor mounts, but spending that extra 130 bucks doesn't guarantee the header clearance or motor tilt will be fixed. Keep the advice coming. I really appreciate having you folks on my corner. Thanks. Mr.E