Vortec swappers with dual tanks: how'd ya do it?

[glock35ipsc]

It just dawned on me that most common Vortec swaps do not involve the use of dual fuel tanks. So I'm wondering how y'all set up your dual tanks? Did you run a separate pump for each tank? Wired to the stock switch just like OEM?

So come on, spill the beans!

[flamingbig10]

I'm guessing, using fuel delivery parts from a 87

[glock35ipsc]

Already have that in place, HuggerCST installed the TBI complete from an 87. I'm more wondering about specific pumps(s) [internal or external], regulator(s), plumbing, etc.

[JohnC]

You may go over to LS1tech.com. I hear they have a great section over there dedicated to swapping into non LS motor cars, and trucks.

[glock35ipsc]

On my way! Thanks!

[texasfunk]

on my 85 i put an electric fuel pump right after the valve to switch tanks, works fine for me.

[joe231]

Originally Posted by texasfunk

on my 85 i put an electric fuel pump right after the valve to switch tanks, works fine for me.

between the switching valve and the engine?

that would seem to be the easiest option.....

[Ford Assassin]

Digging up an old thread....

Originally Posted by texasfunk

on my 85 i put an electric fuel pump right after the valve to switch tanks, works fine for me.

Originally Posted by Driveway Dreams

I don't have much info as far as fuel setup. I would think an electric pump set up like I have in mine would work.
Tanks--->Switch valve--->Electric pump--->Up front.

Any reason this wouldn't work on my TBI/454 1988 R30 for my 5.3 swap? I have done well over 25+ LS swaps, but never had to deal with two tanks.

Here's the paper napkin plan:

Each in-tank TBI pump (both new Delco pumps 7 months ago), through the factory fuel lines to the stock tank switch valve, then valve would feed into the high pressure pump (Walbro 255 in-line that I already own, just need to splice in), then into a
Wix 33737 Corvette style filter/regulator (and fuel return plumbed back into the factory/stock fuel lines, through the switch valve), lastly to the 2005 returnless the fuel rail inlet.

This would be the least expensive route for me since I already own everything from a previous project combined with the factory TBI fuel system. Easiest too from a labor stand point.

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by Ford Assassin

Digging up an old thread....





Any reason this wouldn't work on my TBI/454 1988 R30 for my 5.3 swap? I have done well over 25+ LS swaps, but never had to deal with two tanks.

Here's the paper napkin plan:

Each in-tank TBI pump (both new Delco pumps 7 months ago), through the factory fuel lines to the stock tank switch valve, then valve would feed into the high pressure pump (Walbro 255 in-line that I already own, just need to splice in), then into a
Wix 33737 Corvette style filter/regulator (and fuel return plumbed back into the factory/stock fuel lines, through the switch valve), lastly to the 2005 returnless the fuel rail inlet.

This would be the least expensive route for me since I already own everything from a previous project combined with the factory TBI fuel system. Easiest too from a labor stand point.

Looks.like a good plan.

[Dleslie212]

Originally Posted by Hart_Rod

Looks.like a good plan.

I’m digging up your old dug up post now...

Did you ever do this?

1977 K10

I just installed an Edelbrock ProFlo 4 system, but I’m not happy with the fuel system. What I currently have is dual tanks into one of the newer switching valves, into a 60 PSI fuel pump, up to a regulator that splits into the injector rail and return line, which is then plumbed back into the switching valve.

My problem is that the external pump is overheating. After an hour or so of driving, I can start to hear the pump whining, and I can watch my fuel pressure slowly creep lower and lower on the tablet that came with the ProFlo system. The pump is mounted underneath the top portion of the inside passenger frame rail, but is somewhat close to my exhaust. I’m pretty sure the heat soak from the exhaust is overheating the pump. This was most apparent when I took the truck for a 4 hour off-road trip on an 80 degree day a few weeks back - I had to crawl on the bumpy ass Road so slowly that there was no air flow underneath to move air. It was a nightmare - on the way back, I had to stop every 20 or 30 minutes and spray cold water onto the fuel pump, wait for it to cool down, and then start again. However, I just took the truck out camping last weekend, and was on the highway for about an hour. It wasn’t as bad as the off-road trip, but I towards the end, I could still hear the fuel pump whining over my loud exhaust, and my pressure started slowly creeping down again.

What I’d like to do is just replace the dual tanks with newer baffled tanks and internal fuel pumps, but am struggling comprehending how I’d go about controlling which pump activates in unison with the switching valve.

Also, any recommendations as far as which tanks and internal pumps I should be looking for would be awesome. The senders themselves are both about a year old, but I don’t mind replacing them again either

[SunSoaked]

Originally Posted by Dleslie212

I’m digging up your old dug up post now...

Did you ever do this?

1977 K10

I just installed an Edelbrock ProFlo 4 system, but I’m not happy with the fuel system. What I currently have is dual tanks into one of the newer switching valves, into a 60 PSI fuel pump, up to a regulator that splits into the injector rail and return line, which is then plumbed back into the switching valve.

My problem is that the external pump is overheating. After an hour or so of driving, I can start to hear the pump whining, and I can watch my fuel pressure slowly creep lower and lower on the tablet that came with the ProFlo system. The pump is mounted underneath the top portion of the inside passenger frame rail, but is somewhat close to my exhaust. I’m pretty sure the heat soak from the exhaust is overheating the pump. This was most apparent when I took the truck for a 4 hour off-road trip on an 80 degree day a few weeks back - I had to crawl on the bumpy ass Road so slowly that there was no air flow underneath to move air. It was a nightmare - on the way back, I had to stop every 20 or 30 minutes and spray cold water onto the fuel pump, wait for it to cool down, and then start again. However, I just took the truck out camping last weekend, and was on the highway for about an hour. It wasn’t as bad as the off-road trip, but I towards the end, I could still hear the fuel pump whining over my loud exhaust, and my pressure started slowly creeping down again.

What I’d like to do is just replace the dual tanks with newer baffled tanks and internal fuel pumps, but am struggling comprehending how I’d go about controlling which pump activates in unison with the switching valve.

Also, any recommendations as far as which tanks and internal pumps I should be looking for would be awesome. The senders themselves are both about a year old, but I don’t mind replacing them again either

Perfect timing. I too am looking at redoing my dual tank setup on my 85 K20 with PF-4. I'm in Yuma, just south of you and the heat does not play well with my current Edelbrock remote sump setup.

So far I have come up with needing to replace the tanks with 87 versions, Spectra sending units, EP381 pumps, 87 rocker switch, AC Delco 6 way valve (replacement for the Pollack) and new FI rated hoses and clamps.

[hatzie]

Originally Posted by Ford Assassin

Digging up an old thread....





Any reason this wouldn't work on my TBI/454 1988 R30 for my 5.3 swap? I have done well over 25+ LS swaps, but never had to deal with two tanks.

Here's the paper napkin plan:

Each in-tank TBI pump (both new Delco pumps 7 months ago), through the factory fuel lines to the stock tank switch valve, then valve would feed into the high pressure pump (Walbro 255 in-line that I already own, just need to splice in), then into a
Wix 33737 Corvette style filter/regulator (and fuel return plumbed back into the factory/stock fuel lines, through the switch valve), lastly to the 2005 returnless the fuel rail inlet.

This would be the least expensive route for me since I already own everything from a previous project combined with the factory TBI fuel system. Easiest too from a labor stand point.

Newer diesel trucks and gasoline sedans do it that way. Lift pump then the system pressure pump.
Lift pumps in the tanks that can supply enough volume to keep the single high pressure pump mounted outside the tanks happy.
As I said in the dual tanks post... the return pressure shouldn't damage a 65PSI Pollack valve. I did neglect to mention that you'll probably have to update the valve to the latest and greatest from Pollack. The original GM valve is not rated for 65PSI more like 35 or 40PSI.

[ElGracho]

Not a vortec, but I have an engine with a ramjet intake and a megasquirt computer in my 84 K10. I have 87 tanks and sending units, 89 camaro fuel pumps (one per tank) and a high pressure valve I got from JC Whitney. It's made by pollak just like the original one was, but it is rated for 80 psi. The switch for the tanks (and what turns the right pump on) is from an 87 too.

[glock35ipsc]

Originally Posted by ElGracho

and a high pressure valve I got from JC Whitney. It's made by pollak just like the original one was, but it is rated for 80 psi. The switch for the tanks (and what turns the right pump on) is from an 87 too.

By switch, are you meaning the electric switch in the cab?

What type of fittings are you using on the valve to keep the fuel lines from blowing off due to the high pressure? Are you just using regular hose clamps, or are you using something else?

This is the valve I found at JC Whitney, sounds like the same one:

[ElGracho]

Originally Posted by glock35ipsc

By switch, are you meaning the electric switch in the cab?

Yep. The switch next to the ashtray.

Originally Posted by glock35ipsc

What type of fittings are you using on the valve to keep the fuel lines from blowing off due to the high pressure? Are you just using regular hose clamps, or are you using something else?

Sounds like you already figured it out, but I'm using fuel injection hose clamps and fuel injection rated fuel line for all the soft connections (everywhere that isn't the original metal line).

Originally Posted by glock35ipsc

This is the valve I found at JC Whitney, sounds like the same one:

That looks like the one.

The nice thing about that valve is that it is plug and play with an 81 and up harness and can take the constant voltage (rather than momentary) like the original 87 (only) setup. This lets you keep the original look in the cab by using the 87 selector switch.

[glock35ipsc]

I found this on S&P's web site, good info:

http://www.hotrodlane.cc/77chevytruck/77chevy.htm

[aspiringthomas]

Originally Posted by glock35ipsc

I found this on S&P's web site, good info:

http://www.hotrodlane.cc/77chevytruck/77chevy.htm

That's some good info.

[Driveway Dreams]

I don't have much info as far as fuel setup. I would think an electric pump set up like I have in mine would work.
Tanks--->Switch valve--->Electric pump--->Up front.

Gearstar seems to have awesome setups for the 4L60E. I priced out a full standalone kit with everything for the Biscayne for $3,500. And that is with computer, cooler, fluid, stick, mount, lock up converter, level 2 tranny...everything! I know you wont need the computer but you may check them out. Great service too. Call me later about it.

[glock35ipsc]

Originally Posted by Driveway Dreams

I don't have much info as far as fuel setup. I would think an electric pump set up like I have in mine would work.
Tanks--->Switch valve--->Electric pump--->Up front.

Gearstar seems to have awesome setups for the 4L60E. I priced out a full standalone kit with everything for the Biscayne for $3,500. And that is with computer, cooler, fluid, stick, mount, lock up converter, level 2 tranny...everything! I know you wont need the computer but you may check them out. Great service too. Call me later about it.

Oops, I started to post, then went to lunch, then came back and finished. So I missed your post!

From what I have read over on ls1trucks.com and performancetrucks.net, the guys who tried that with a Vortec have had problems, but with TBI it's not a big deal. Mainly because of the psi the Vortec's need (TBI ~13, Vortec ~58-62), and some issues with the return too.

So far from what I've read, the AC Delco in-tank pumps along with the upgraded high psi switching valve have proven themselves worthy.

Oh, and my trans will be about $900 to my door.

[glock35ipsc]

I think I have it figured out now. Since I already have in-tank pumps, I will jump switch out pumps to an AC Delco EP 241 or possible the Walbro 255. Although since Walbro sold the pump unit I have been reading a lot of bad news about their product since then. And they have a "low price in lieu of warranty" policy now.

I've ordered the above switch valve, and figured out what type of hose and clamps to use.

Not nearly as difficult as I thought. This should be a lot easier too since I will be using a returnless system on the engine.

Thanks for all the replies!

[Driveway Dreams]

So you just need engine and computer now?

[glock35ipsc]

Engine and trans are lined up, it's just a matter of waiting until payday. They will be on a truck August 3.

[glock35ipsc]

So is the 85 switch different from the 87 switch?

[flamingbig10]

yes the 87 fuel tank selector switch is different than the 85

[glock35ipsc]

Copy that! I'll be ordering one tomorrow!

Thanks