How to temporarily stop rust...

[kcackler]

I've got some major rust issues going on in the passenger side of my 77 cab. The outer floorboard, rocker panel, and the seat mount (The big bump...not sure what it's called) all have rust tearing them apart. The problem is that I don't have the funds right now to get it fixed right, since I'm guessing it will be $1,000+ to hire someone to weld patches in. Is there anything I can do to temporarily stop the rust from spreading any further? Like dumping a gallon of POR-15 on it or something?

I would like to have it welded (Assuming the rust isn't so bad that it can't be welded) but right now the finances just don't allow for that.

Any tips would be appreciated. I've got to continue using the truck daily, so I need to fix it somehow.

Also - Where can I buy the bushings for my door strikers? Autozone here only has Ford ones and they said they couldn't order them either. Can't find them online anywhere either...

Thanks.

[oldgmc]

phosphoric acid will clean up the rust you can get premixed stuff at home depot or stores like it under names like rust buster or must for rust. Check the ingredients to be sure it has phosphoric acid. You may also be able to buy it straight and cut it yourself.
Try LMC for the bushings

[kcackler]

So phosphoric acid to clean up the rust...What would I use to cover the newly clean metal to keep it from rusting again until I can get a permanent fix?

[79gmcc15]

Originally Posted by kcackler

So phosphoric acid to clean up the rust...What would I use to cover the newly clean metal to keep it from rusting again until I can get a permanent fix?

do that and clean it off real good. make sure to get the acid off. then dry it off real good and shoot it with some primer. if you are really tight you can go with the 99cent primer for a real temp job. here is what I did. it only cost me under $20. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=341920

[kcackler]

My problem is that I don't just have pitting...I've got holes all the way through the floorboard in the passenger side. You can see the road passing by if you look carefully enough. I don't know how I'm going to be able to coat all around the metal with naval jelly or primer on the inside and outside of the panels...Wish I had money or a friend with a welder

[79widestep]

i use this spraycan stuff called rust converter it turns rust in to black paintable primer u gotta sand all the loose rust off and then spray a few coats on it it stops rust for spreading anyfurther and can be used with body filler then come back and spray por15 over that to seal that from any moisture i get this rustconverter from walmart it works great and not messy at all just like sparying a can of spraypaint its in a black spray can

[87Bob]

You might want to check this link out. If your rust is not structural you can buy the various patch panels and use the panel bonder to glue them in place. That panel bonder is strong stuff! I have a 87 Corvette that had a metal brace glued into the rear deck. That glue stuck to the metal so good I had to grind it off you could not peal it off. Anyway check this out post out it has all fixes you can do in your driveway which is where he did his.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=342926&page=5

[kcackler]

Thanks for the link. That patch looks great, and all without welding? That's a neat trick.

The thing is...I'm not sure if my rust is "structural" or not. The outer floorboards are rusted completely through - I can see the road. So if I cut away that portion of floorboard, all the way up to good metal, could I use the patch panel and the panel glue to make a "good enough" repair that would last 5 or 10 years?

I basically want to do rocker panels and the outer 6 inches or so of the floorboards, as well as the hump that the seat sits on. If I can do all of that with patch panels and the glue you're talking about, I'm going to be a very happy man.

Any other links you've got that describe the process of using the panel adhesive? I'm a little bit confused on how I'm supposed to attach a panel and make it even with the surrounding metal by using adhesive. I'm not a body guy so this is new territory for me.

Thanks again. I love this place.

[kcackler]

Doing some research on the cost of patch panels and I've run into a question. I found this part (http://www.classicparts.com/1973-91-...ctinfo/45-954/) and this part (http://www.classicparts.com/1973-91-...ctinfo/45-952/)

What is the difference between the two and which one should I go for if I'm going to be using the panel adhesive to do my repairs? I'm not afraid of using a cut off wheel to cut the old panel out if that's how it needs to be done.

Also, what would I use to secure new floor supports (http://www.classicparts.com/1973-91-...ctinfo/45-421/) to the truck?

Sorry for the stupid questions - Just want to get this done as good as I can for cheap..

[87Bob]

Originally Posted by kcackler

Doing some research on the cost of patch panels and I've run into a question. I found this part (http://www.classicparts.com/1973-91-...ctinfo/45-954/) and this part (http://www.classicparts.com/1973-91-...ctinfo/45-952/)

What is the difference between the two and which one should I go for if I'm going to be using the panel adhesive to do my repairs? I'm not afraid of using a cut off wheel to cut the old panel out if that's how it needs to be done.

Also, what would I use to secure new floor supports (http://www.classicparts.com/1973-91-...ctinfo/45-421/) to the truck?



Sorry for the stupid questions - Just want to get this done as good as I can for cheap..

Here is what I would suggest you do. First take pictures and post them here there are lots of people here that will help you. Next on the repairs, In the link I sent you the guy used a set of special pliers to offset the the flange of the metal. Check out Eastwood Products online at www.Eastwood.com. you leave about one half to 3/4 of an inch flange to put the new metal on. You MUST do all your fitting before you do any gluing most of these glues have a "open time" that is the time before the epoxy kicks offs and the glue hardens. If you don't feel comfortable with using just the glue use some pop rivites also if it is under the carpet and is done right it will be solid and much better than what you have now. The only time I would not do this is if it were involving the mounting points for the cab. On items that should be welded in maybe a local body shop would weld them in for you. Contact LMC Truck and get a catalog for your year truck. Fimilarize your self with the sheet metal parts and what needs replacing. A little study will go along way to helping you undestand what your up against. Check out what is availible at the library in their automotive section under body repair. Your repairs may not be perfect to win the Oakland Roadster Show but you can do it well enough to be safe and attractive just like the guy in the link I sent. Ask a lot of question and if you don't know something it never is a dumb one. Good Luck and let see some pictures!

[kcackler]

Ask and you shall receive. Pictures are attached.

Hopefully these will give you a good idea of the rust damage in the cab. The floorboard isn't really all that bad, but the rocker panel is rusted through and the seat hump is as well (Not sure what that piece is called, so have been unable to track down a patch panel for it)

So, after viewing these pictures - Will the panel adhesive do the job for me or will I need it welded or do I need a new cab entirely?

Thanks again.

[87Bob]

Originally Posted by kcackler

Ask and you shall receive. Pictures are attached.

Hopefully these will give you a good idea of the rust damage in the cab. The floorboard isn't really all that bad, but the rocker panel is rusted through and the seat hump is as well (Not sure what that piece is called, so have been unable to track down a patch panel for it)

So, after viewing these pictures - Will the panel adhesive do the job for me or will I need it welded or do I need a new cab entirely?

Thanks again.

To answer your questions. First I'd try to find replacement panels. Once I had them I would be sure that that I can cover the area I'd need to cut out.

Also Stacey David did a show where he took a bronco and replaced a lot of the sheet metal in it. It was a real rust bucket. I cannot remember if it was on the Spike network show called Trucks or his new show on Speed called Gears.

Do you have a Vo-Tech school in your area? An evening course there might be the trick they have the tools, welders and paint booths to do the job and if it is with the local school district the costs may very reasonable. Most time students work on their own projects. Also some instructors will have open times that you can come in and work on projects. Don't forget local community colleges with auto repair classes.

[kcackler]

Thanks for the information. I'm going to attempt to do this myself, starting with an area of the cab that's not in too rough of shape (Driver's side floorboard). If i can tackle that, I'll attempt the more serious ones (Driver's side cab)

Thanks for the tips about VO-tech and community colleges. I wasn't aware that they could take on projects outside of their own.

[87Bob]

Originally Posted by kcackler

Thanks for the information. I'm going to attempt to do this myself, starting with an area of the cab that's not in too rough of shape (Driver's side floorboard). If i can tackle that, I'll attempt the more serious ones (Driver's side cab)

Thanks for the tips about VO-tech and community colleges. I wasn't aware that they could take on projects outside of their own.

I meant if you take the class you can work on your own.

[kcackler]

Originally Posted by 87Bob

I meant if you take the class you can work on your own.

Yeah I figured that out after I had replied