Ideas on converting my 2wd Burb to a 4X??

[70rs/ss]

I bought a nice 71 Burb and want to make it a 4X. At first I was just going to buy a 4X burb frame/chasis, but now I am leaning towards converting. I have a complete set of 3/4 ton 4X axles (dana 44 8-lug and a 14BFF rear) and a Dana 60 rear w/3.54's and a posi! I need to decide on the rear to use, I know the 14bff is a stronger rear and the ratio matches the front (I think haven't verified that 100%), so the 14bff and the dana 44 are what I "should use" although the 3.54's and posi really have me leaning towards the dana 60 and possibly swapping the gears in the 44 to the 60's ratio?! Any help on this part is welcomed!!


As for the rear suspension, I am sticking w/the coil spring rear (didn't say that before, but the burb is a coil sprung rear!), just going to put the trailing arms on top of the axle vs under it and will get about 2" of lift there and a new set of springs from Eaton Detroit Spring, with maybe another inch made into them (not looking for a monster truck, just 3-4 inches total so we can still get in and out of it without a ladder!!


For the front I will use DIY4X hangers and go w/leaf in the front for now (I want coils up front styled after the 07 dodge I have now, but in the interest of time and $$$, leaves will do for now!!)


I found a guy that sells 700r4's for $900 w/12 month warranty!! So a 700r4 w/208 or a 205 transfer case, and the axles as I mentioned above. How does that sound!?


Once I am driving it for a while and get some of my other projects done then i'll tackle the coil sprung front, ala Suburban Gorrilla from Extreme 4X4, with the Dodge truck set-up. I am looking to get a 32, maybe 35" tire on it and be capable of DD and wheeling when the white stuff flies!!

[DuramaxC10]

going to be one kick *** burb when completed

[Igotachevyor2]

sounds like a solid plan

[70rs/ss]

Is the 14bff stronger than the Dana 60?? I am not going to wheel this a lot so I figure the D60 is tough enough, but any opinions would be welcomed??

[turp mcspray]

I think the 60 should be plenty strong, and less "heft" to boot.

[justcuz]

First, you will get much more than 2" of lift by putting the axle under the trailing arm. Measure from the centerline of the axle to the bottom of the arm, that will equal your lift. Probably more like 4 to 5 inches. Using the DIY hangers you can use 56" Chevy rears in the front. It will ride pretty smooth with these. If your 14 bolt has 4.10 gears and you are gonna use a 700R4 your rear axle ratio in OD goes to 2.90 which is perfect for cruising. The 14 bolt has the advantage of having a removable pinion and is easier to set up. Whatever rear axle you use I would run the 4.10's with any tire between 32 and 34". I would use a 241 t-case. They are light,strong, plentiful and have a better gear reduction than a 203 or a 205. The 208 is OK too but may be harder to find. Most all of your leaf sprung Blazers and Suburbans with 700R4's in them will have a 241 passenger drop t-case. The last thing you need to do is lengthen your track bar and maybe change the frame bracket. When you raise the truck your axle will move to the side a little. A longer arm solves this. When you relocate the rear axle have the track/panhard bar off and remeasure it at static heigth. Lengthen to fit, or make it longer so it travels in a longer arc and you end up with less side movement of the rear end. If you keep it to just 4 inches of suspension lift you can buy a steering arm that has more of a bend in it and maintain the stock 4 wheel drive steering. Or you can keep your 2wd steering and do a crossover steering to the right knuckle. If yours is not a flat one you can change it out for one that you can use for cross steering. Obviously you need to change out the engine and trans/t-case mounts but you should be able to get those at a local yard pretty easily.

[70rs/ss]

I think you are right, maybe 4" I was just thinking the hight of the trailing arm, and not counting where the axle sits. If that is the case, then I only need a stock replacement spring for the rear, not a longer one! I have an adjustable track bar and figured on having to change the frame side of the mounts. The front end, i was planning to use the longer leaves, didn't think about cross over, but I may do that, but I have all of the regular 4X4 steering stuff, so I may stay w/that. I have a 208 already so covered there as well. Just need to locate the engine, trans, and transfer case mounts. I hope to have some picts of this beast once it starts to come to reality vs an idea in my head!! Soon I have the burb and the 68 clip is on it so it has begun!!

Thanks guys for the help, I appreciate it, keep the ideas a comin' the more we talk about it the less likely I am to make a mistake, a well thought out plan is priceless!!

[justcuz]

Does your 2 piece drive shaft have a slip joint behind the support bearing? If not it will be essential to have that done to accomodate the suspension travel.

[70rs/ss]

Not sure, but I plan on having new driveshafts made, the oe ones were OK for stock, but this is going to be a whole new animal, so good solid driveshafts are a must, Inland Empire, or Denny's for sure.

[jerry moss]

sounds like it'll be a nice ride when you're finished. i recently picked up a 72 'burb 2wd and thinking along the 4x4 lines also. i have a clean and straight 4x4 'burb frame located plus a few sets of 4x4 axles, 205 t-cases etc. just waiting on the final outcome of my back problems before starting anything major. if i end up having to get cut on, i might be out of commision for a few months. nothing will be final until the middle of september at the earliest, the doctor wants to try one more steroid injection in my spine before deciding to slice me up. lets see some pics before you start with the mods.

[70rs/ss]

Jerry I has L4, L5 & S1 fused last June, I was out of comission for close to 8 months!! I didn't want to jack up all the expensive work I had done so I took it easy, well worth it for me. I still have pain, but nothing like before!! As for picts well the mods sorta started!! Here are a few of the before: The first few are the day I brought it home. The rest are the 4.10's in the 14bff and the 10-bolt 44.


Is the carrier in the 14bff a posi?? I am not an expert on pos's other than the 1/2 ton 12 bolts I know what they look like!! I think the 14bff is a posi and so is the dana 60 rear so it is a toss up between 3.54's or 4.10's!!

The rest of the picts from here on are of the rear axle flip, I cut the stock trailing arm mounts off and swapped sides then put the rear under the trailing arm. As the member mentioned above my lift will be more like 4-6 inches (came out to almost 8"!! I will more than likely buy a lowered rear spring to keep this from being too tall!! Check em out and LMK what you guys think!!

[70rs/ss]

Actually I have those picts backwards, the bottom picts are when I first got it home, with the 71 nose and the near perfect white 68 nose I found for it. I unbolted the 71 nose and put the 68 nose on it, as I am partial to the 67-8 nose! Now will be a progression of the gear set picts and the work as I swapped the mounts and put the rear under the trailing arms. I took picts of the stuff with the tape measure in there so you could get an idea of where I am now and hom much height I got out of just the axle flip!!

[mosesburb]

Your 14 has the G80 "Gov-Lock" in it. While not a true "posi" like the passenger cars, it does lock both wheels together, often times with a substantial bang, when wheel spin is present. They are not bomb-proof, but with a small block, it should last a very long time, if not forever. Also, if it has not been answered already, the 14 is substantially stronger than the 60, but the 60 is plenty strong enough for a small block. As far as gearing, I would definitely go with the 4.10's--especially with the 700R.

[70rs/ss]

Originally Posted by mosesburb

Your 14 has the G80 "Gov-Lock" in it. While not a true "posi" like the passenger cars, it does lock both wheels together, often times with a substantial bang, when wheel spin is present. They are not bomb-proof, but with a small block, it should last a very long time, if not forever. Also, if it has not been answered already, the 14 is substantially stronger than the 60, but the 60 is plenty strong enough for a small block. As far as gearing, I would definitely go with the 4.10's--especially with the 700R.

You wouldn't have a spare front 60 around would ya?! I figured that either rear would work, just a matter of the gearing. If I can find a 60 w/3.54's cool if not I'll go w/the 14 bolt and the 4.10's. I'd hate to buy a whole K30 just to get a 60, but I found one with 4.56's are those too low?

[mosesburb]

Nope no spare D60F's around here. If you are looking for a 60 with 3.54's, do not even bother looking at GM trucks becaue they never had that gear in a GM. Look for a first gen Dodge 3/4 or 1T Dodge with a Cummins. 3.54 was a very common gear back then. The pad width is close enough to use in a GM and often can be had for less money than a GM 60. As for the 4.56's, it *might* be a bit too much depending on what tires you are running. The 700R will knock it down a fair bit, but if you are running a short tire, it may not knock it down enough.

[70rs/ss]

As you can see with the worn out rear springs I have enough lift, so if I replace them w/new stock hieght springs, I'll get closer to 8-10" of lift!! I am going to have Eaton Detroit Spring make me a pair of 3/4 ton springs, but 2-3" shorter. A regular 2 or 3" drop rear spring is based on a 1/2 light duty spring and I will pull a trailer behind this so I'd like it to be a "tough" and able workhorse even if I only pull a trailer once a year, BETTER TO BUILD IT TO BE PREPARED THAN TO "WISH" I HAD BUILT IT THAT WAY!!!

[70rs/ss]

more of the "BIG UNIT"

[70rs/ss]

This should be the last of them! The last ones here and the next one in the next post are a few picts of my "heard" I have a cab from a one ton motorhome chasis, I really want to build a knarly 4X4 with the cab marker lights, but I will probably sell it as I have not enough time or $$$ to do that one!! The 90 454SS that'll get a nasty 496-505ci stroker!! And 67 Chevelle that needs to get a frame and pretty much a complete car!! The 67 and the 90 454SS are being built as memorials to my brother as he had a 90 454SS that was his pride and joy and a 67 Chevelle project he never got to. When he died his X wife stole and sold most of his stuff to keep his family from getting it (a whole other story about all that crap!!), but those two will get built sooner or later in his memory!!

[70rs/ss]

last pict of my junk for today!!

[martindc1]

I think your rear springs are actually progressive rate rears, so they might not be as worn out as you think. Also you might want to see where your front ends up height wise before you get your custom springs made. Really, I think the rear height looks about right now.

All those pics make me wish my 67 spent its first 40 years out in the desert before I got it. The salt and moisture of Ohio has taken a toll on it.

[70rs/ss]

Rear springs are sagging quite a bit, the inner 3-4 coils are rubbing on one another, but I agree on waiting till I get the 52" springs under the front. I am pretty excited about this thing, I was worried at first but too late now!

[68SWB4x4]

Awesome man, can't wait to see this done. The pics of your burb make me really want to get a 68 grille for mine!

The diy4x b52 kit was a real easy install for me, you won't be disappointed!

[70rs/ss]

Originally Posted by 68SWB4x4

Awesome man, can't wait to see this done. The pics of your burb make me really want to get a 68 grille for mine!

The diy4x b52 kit was a real easy install for me, you won't be disappointed!

Does the b52 kit add any lift at all? I am hesitant to buy lifted springs, so I may look for a set at the wrecking yard for cheap and go from there? Not really looking for a ton of lift, my Dodge at factory height is a PIA to get in and out of as it sits so high! I am looking to maybe get lowered rear coils to bring it down a hair from where it sits. I put the tape on there to show where a 33" tall tire will end up as the tiny ones on it now are only 29" tall. Once I replace the saggin' springs (with a stock height spring, I'd pick up another 2-3" of height, which is why I want a lowered rear coil!) I also have a set of beefy 3/4 ton trailing arms that are plated for extra strength, as the factory 1/2 ton ones are really pretty flimsy! Can't wait to get moving on this thing!!

[68SWB4x4]

It gives 4-5" of lift with 52" stock springs

[70rs/ss]

Originally Posted by 68SWB4x4

Awesome man, can't wait to see this done. The pics of your burb make me really want to get a 68 grille for mine!

The diy4x b52 kit was a real easy install for me, you won't be disappointed!

I'll do you one better, picts of your Burb made me buy this one and the new work to your's helped me to spawn this idea of converting to a 4X4!! I had a super clean almost 100% original 68 Burb several years ago, I rebuilt the original 327 in it and then I had to sell it, I drove it maybe 1/2 mile before it went away, so between your sweet burb and the other one I had, i had to build another and of course, a 4X!!