70's style alternator in my 65

[65ChevyUtah]

Whats the bast way to wire a newer alternator in my 65 ? Do I need still need a voltage requlator ? I've heard that the newer alternators have a voltage regulator built in. Is this true ?

Thanks for your help.

[Eagar1]

http://www.persh.org/pickup/IdeaPage.htm

Give that a shot, lots of good ideas.

[1964C10]

I just put a new model alternator single wire on my truck. It depends on what model alternator you get on how to hook it up. Find one that is newer and has the model number still on it then you can figure that out really easy they only come in a few different models actually. Be sure to grab the connector to goes from the alternator into the wiring harness as well so you dont have to buy that. PM me if you have any specific questions.

It's definitely worth doing, my headlights are probably 20% brighter now and it cranks quicker as well.

[65ChevyUtah]

So do I get rid of the voltage regulator ? If so what do u do with the wires going into it ? Thanks for the help

[Oklahoma]

If you use a single wire alt, you dont need a voltage regulator. As far as the old wires to the alt, just tape them back or cut them away. You can convert any style atlernator to a single wire set-up.

[astrochimp]

you want a 3 wire-

http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...hreewire.shtml

[65ChevyUtah]

The alternator I have has three wires. I just need to know where they need to be hooked up and I am assuming I can ditch my Voltage regulator. Any help on where to hook these three wires up would be great.

[1964C10]

The one I have dropped right into the old spot on my 250 inline no bracketry to fix or anything and my old one was the original one I think!

[ol Curt]

Originally Posted by 1964C10

The one I have dropped right into the old spot on my 250 inline no bracketry to fix or anything and my old one was the original one I think!

Do you know what vehicle the one you have was listed for?

[jason65]

Originally Posted by ol Curt

Do you know what vehicle the one you have was listed for?

I just told them early 80's 3 wire and they new what I was talking about.

[TR65]

Jason65,

My alternator mounted just as before. You need to buy one that is "clocked" like the one you take off, that is the housing is rotated properly so that the plugin and the mounting ears are in the right position.

I was changing to a serpentine belt at the same time and had to make some spacers and get longer bolts to line up with the pulleys.

TR

[jason65]

I moved mine for headers. Are you useing rams horns? What year of alt did you use? I belive the Delco 10s1 is what I ran.

[Chevy Fleetside]

If you are scared of wiring, you can alway buy this for $18 it seems like. http://www.truckandcarshop.com/trucks60_72/t60_105.html It is the Alt conversion kit. Basically plugs into your firewall plug and you just hook it up to the alt.

[1964C10]

Here is the page I found my information.http://www.extreme4wheelin.com/tech/...ators/tech.htm
I have the CS130. This was purely by accident, I was walking around the yard and saw it laying on top the engine already taken out of car/truck apparently. It looked brand new so for $15 it was mine, simply swapped out pulleys to the V groove, took it to Kragen for testing and installed it.

[Shorty Cox]

Here you go,

It is so easy. I did it to my '64, and i would think it would be just as easy on yours.

1.Take the regulator off and throw it as far as you can.
2. It should have had 4 wires connected to it.
3. Using a test light, locate the wire that is hot (12 volts)when the ignition switch is in the "run" position.
4. now, locate the wire that runs from the regulator position to the gen/alt position.
5. splice the wire located in number 3 above to the one located in number 4.
6. now you have a wire at the gen/alt location that is hot (12volts)with the key in the "run" position.
7. forget the other two wires at the regulator position.
8. Now remove the gen/alt and throw it as far as you can(probably can't throw it as far as you did the regulator!!)
9. Should be three wires going to the it. two small wires and one large wire. The large wire is connected to the battery and is hot (12 volts) all the time. (On some vehicles, it may connect to the battery via the horn relay)
10. Go to the parts house and purchase an alternator with an internal regulator and a new "pig tail" (the little thing that plugs onto the two terminals on the side and near the back of the alternator) they are numbered 1 & 2. the pig tail will have a small white wire and a large red wire. The new alternator will also have a large terminal(electrical connection) on the back. It will look like a screw sticking out with a nut on it.
11. Do what it takes to bolt the new alternator into the place of the gen/alt you removed and threw in step 8.
12. Once installed, plug the pig tail onto the terminals mentioned in step 10. attach the large wire from the battery (mentioned in step 9) and the red wire on the pig tail (mentioned in step 10) to the large terminal on the back of the alternator, tighten the nut.
13. Now attach the white wire on the pigtail to the wire identified in steps 4, 5, & 6.
14. Secure all left over wires.
15. Crank her up and you are good to go.

Amp meter should work also. If you have a idot light, i'm not sure.

Shorty

[jason65]

The original light will work. Thats what mine is hooked to.

[ol Curt]

Originally Posted by Shorty Cox

Here you go,

It is so easy. I did it to my '64, and i would think it would be just as easy on yours.

1.Take the regulator off and throw it as far as you can.
2. It should have had 4 wires connected to it.
3. Using a test light, locate the wire that is hot (12 volts)when the ignition switch is in the "run" position.
4. now, locate the wire that runs from the regulator position to the gen/alt position.
5. splice the wire located in number 3 above to the one located in number 4.
6. now you have a wire at the gen/alt location that is hot (12volts)with the key in the "run" position.
7. forget the other two wires at the regulator position.
8. Now remove the gen/alt and throw it as far as you can(probably can't throw it as far as you did the regulator!!)
9. Should be three wires going to the it. two small wires and one large wire. The large wire is connected to the battery and is hot (12 volts) all the time. (On some vehicles, it may connect to the battery via the horn relay)
10. Go to the parts house and purchase an alternator with an internal regulator and a new "pig tail" (the little thing that plugs onto the two terminals on the side and near the back of the alternator) they are numbered 1 & 2. the pig tail will have a small white wire and a large red wire. The new alternator will also have a large terminal(electrical connection) on the back. It will look like a screw sticking out with a nut on it.
11. Do what it takes to bolt the new alternator into the place of the gen/alt you removed and threw in step 8.
12. Once installed, plug the pig tail onto the terminals mentioned in step 10. attach the large wire from the battery (mentioned in step 9) and the red wire on the pig tail (mentioned in step 10) to the large terminal on the back of the alternator, tighten the nut.
13. Now attach the white wire on the pigtail to the wire identified in steps 4, 5, & 6.
14. Secure all left over wires.
15. Crank her up and you are good to go.

Amp meter should work also. If you have a idot light, i'm not sure.

Shorty

I think item number 8 will be costly, as the core charge would have to be eaten!

[jason65]

It's worth the upgrade.

[1964C10]

I am not sure but I think if you have a gauge then you need to add a resistor inline with the gauge other wise your alternator will either not work or you will fry it. It needs to see a resistance value, a light bulb is enough but not a gauge. That is if I read the above instructions correctly

[TR65]

Guys,

My gauge worked fine with no modifications after the alternator swap. The only change was that it didn't go negative at idle with the light on any more.

TR

[1964C10]

TR can you share some more info? I tried wiring up with my gauge and it did not work which is what I expected. I just connected it to the "Overdrive" light which was unused and it works fine now. I am only rehashing what I read when I did my swap but the way I understand it is that the energize wire comes from the lamp and goes to ground if the alternator is not running (or is broke) causing the idiot light to illuminate. Once the alternator starts to work it essentially puts 12+ volts on the energize wire making the light go out since there is no longer a ground. So I have no idea how I would hook that up to get the gauge to work. I am no electrician so details would be great!

[TR65]

Hey 64C10,

The gauge is a voltmeter and measures the voltage at the horn relay. There should be a black/white wire that goes to the hot terminal on the horn relay. The other gauge wire goes to ground. So I didn't bother that with the alternator swap so it measures voltage just as before except the voltage is higher at idle, which was the objective. Hope that helps.

TR

[fixit-p]

The 12SI bolts right in where the 10DN mounts the adjustment bolt is metric IIRC 8x1.5 mm and all you need is to add jumpers at the alt plug. Doing it this way puts the voltage sense wire at the main splice giving you more power where you need it. Madelectrical.com has listings for 12SI alts they can be had up to 94 amps.

[1964C10]

Thanks guys!! My wiring harness was completely shot so I had to make my own meaning I cut alot of that stuff includind the horn relay since it and the horn button on the column no longer worked anyways. But I think I can figure it out from here.