To thread lock or not to thread lock!

[jgrisafi]

Question? When bolting all of the suspension parts back on the frame, such as trailing arm bolts and transmission cross member bolts. Is it a good idea to use thread lock or to just torque the bolts to specs, or both. And if I just need to torque all the bolts down does anyone have all the torque specs for the suspension parts? Thanks

[smashingchuck]

I like to use a little bit of blue Loctite on everything that's questionable. No need to torque the stuff, if you're smart enough to work on it you should know how tight is tight enough.

[fiddy9apache]

Originally Posted by smashingchuck

I like to use a little bit of blue Loctite on everything that's questionable. No need to torque the stuff, if you're smart enough to work on it you should know how tight is tight enough.

you couldnt said it any better, amen.

[Tx Firefighter]

I'm an old airplane mechanic, but I use some form of thread lock on every single bolt on the truck, whether liquid thread locker, a lock washer, or locknut. If it's good enough for the sky, it's good enough for my truck.

[dan76]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

I'm an old airplane mechanic, but I use some form of thread lock on every single bolt on the truck, whether liquid thread locker, a lock washer, or locknut. If it's good enough for the sky, it's good enough for my truck.

Agreed....I do the same. However each fastener has a torque value developed by the engineers for the task at hand. Does this mean I use a torque wrench on every bolt? No, but most folks can easily overcome a fastener's torque value and stretch the bolt resulting in a weakened fastener. Obviously critical areas need the designed torque value applied: i. e. flywheel, clutch disk, calipers, driveshaft and of course internal engine fasteners.

[DHPmike]

The good rule of thumb on auto parts is to use locknuts. I use all steel stover locknuts whenever possible and with flat washers. I use a 1/4" drive ratchet on anything up to and including 5/16" bolts, 3/8" drive on 3/8" to 5/8" bolts and a 1/2" drive on anything larger. with that you will almost never overtighten a bolt.

blind holes need locktite but I see no need to torque anything thats not on the engine, trans or driveline.

body, chassis, suspension should be tight and use locknuts or lockwashers. I also prefer star lockwashers and internal tooth lockwashers.