What is the ideal weight in the back of an AD?

[50Bow-tied GMC]

I am doing a bit of research as to what is the ideal weight in the rear of an AD. I am trying to figure out what is the best weight to traction ratio. The biggest thing that I am afraid of is breaking the tires loose every time I go to take off from a dead start. I wouldnt mind being able to do it from time to time but would like to keep more than 6 months between new tires in the rear. Also, if anyone has added weight to the rear how did you do it. I thought about filling the back half of the frame with lead after boxing it in, welding steel plates in the frame, or building a box full of something to put in the bed. Any ideas?

[OrrieG]

In my world the ideal weight is probably beer, expensive import or micro brews. A bunch of aluminum BBC would do nicely too.

[sgtusmc]

Originally Posted by OrrieG

In my world the ideal weight is probably beer, expensive import or micro brews. A bunch of aluminum BBC would do nicely too.

[Atomsplitter]

I've never heard of someone adding weight to a daily driver for traction (winter?) unless your talking about racing?
If your talking about a daily driver try not to push your foot down so hard unless your trying to light um'up, works for me and it's better on the wallet (i.e. fuel and tires).
If i'm off base here just shoot me.....I'm old and tired anyway!

[solidaxel]

Just how big is your power plant!!

[OrrieG]

I think it is more a factory of throttle control than weighting up the rear. If you have an auto trans, get a little higher stall converter so it does not lock up as quick. Set up the throttle linkage so you need more movement on the foot side to open the throttle. Increase throttle return spring tension. I know guys around here running 700+ hp motors on the street with no problems. Putting the gas tank in the rear will help with weight distribution.

Is the back going to be a narrowed 4 link so you can run larger tires and work with the chassis set up to get the rear to hook up rather than spin? It's not a factor of weight or light weight drag cars and trucks would not work. Running the gear ratio higher will decrease wheel spin too.

Lots of things can affect the ability to decrease wheel spin, most important is how hard you mash the throttle.

[mr48chev]

Sooo, You don't have the truck running yet and are worried about the rear tires breaking loose when you leave stop lights?

That is better controlled with the proper use of the right foot than trying to scab weight onto the frame.

[PDW HOTRODS]

Install a new gas tank under the back of the bed. Its not adding weight, just moving it. Most people dont like the gas tank in the cab anyway.

[50Bow-tied GMC]

Thanks for the input guys. I wondered if I was out in left field for being worried about it when it comes right down to an issue of controlling the right foot.

[Atomsplitter]

If you're really worried about this issue, use a wider rear tire for more traction and it will tend to grip better than a skinny tires. I use 245/70r15's on the rear. With 300hp and 330ft/lbs I can still drive normally when I want without spinning the tires but I still have trouble keeping it under the speed limit (it only weighs 3200lbs).

[cobinder]

Move your fuel tank and your battery to the rear. Adjust your ride height. Thats the easy/ cheapest way to move weight to the rear and gain traction.

[mylow53]

pretty hard to brake my tires loose with 340 hp (posi rear) and 10" wheels. i've done it but the go peddle was on the floor. are you going big block?
GT

[50Bow-tied GMC]

Atom: Thanks for your input. I didnt really think about the wider tire making it harder to breakem loose.

Co: I am planning on moving the fuel tank back to the back, but hadnt thought of the battery too. How do you access it?

Mylow: Probably will go with a small block.