'99 S-10 Blazer 4.3 removal

[chucks70]

Just about says it, I am taking a blown motor out of a '99 and replacing it with a '98 junkyard motor. i have just about everything I can see disconnected on the top, the accessories are all off the front. The flywheel bolts are out. I can't seem to get to the top bellhousing bolt or the fuel line holder at the back of the drivers side head. Any experience or ideas? I tried taking the dist. out to get to them from up top, that didn't help. I do have the tranny crossmember loose but have not dropped it yet, maybe angleing the tranny will give me the needed room, but I don't see gaining much space because of the tranfer case.

I see 2 minor differences in the motors as of now, the exhaust manifolds will have to be exchanged and the temp or oil sending unit by the drivers side exhaust is different. Does anyone have any other ideas of what to look for.

Is there anything else I should do to the engine before putting it back in? I plan on water pump and hoses.

Thanks for any help

Chuck

[Damien]

I generally get those with a flex head ratcheting or a stubby wrench. I would change the intake gaskets and quick coupler for the heater hose while you have the engine out.

[lvschevytrucks]

when I did my 95 Blazer, the easiest way for me was to lift the body, I then had all the room I needed

[chucks70]

Here in the road salt capitol of the US, body bolts are rusted solid.
I will try the flexhead ratchet next.

Thanks
Chuck

[lvschevytrucks]

Originally Posted by chucks70

Here in the road salt capitol of the US, body bolts are rusted solid.
I will try the flexhead ratchet next.

Thanks
Chuck

I know the feeling , Im a missed placed New Yorker, I know rust very well.
Good luck

[68C15]

he means a flex-head ratcheting wrench ie. Gear Wrench.
I use a regular box wrench to loosen it then grab a sandwich and a snickers bar so I have something to do with my right hand while I spend the next 1/2 hour with the stubby wrench the rest of the way.
for the fuel line retainer I use a 1/4" flex ratchet and a short 9/16" socket. you may want to wear a glove or wrap your hand in a shop rag. the steering shaft and shift linkage are NOT friendly.
don't forget the 3 ground bolts (2 on pass. head and 1 on drivers head).
while I have the engine out I take a hammer and bend the firewall-toe board lip BACK so I have room for a swivel chrome socket upon assembly.
you do know you WILL need a scan tool (not just a code reader) for setting the cam retard after starting it.

Damien, these do not have a quick coupler for the heater hoses. thankfully.

if you need advice "on the run" so to speak PM me for my cell #. I have done so many of these I can just about do them blindfolded. for some strange reason people don't heed my advice about replacing the leaking oil cooler lines.
that reminds me.
REPLACE THOSE OIL COOLER LINES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

EDIT: also replace the motor mounts and install the engine cooler lines on before you stuff the motor in. leave the shipping cap on the oil filter end until you hook them up.

[chucks70]

Wow, now that was fun. I found that it was easier to reach anything on top by removing the intake manifold and dizzy. Even when everything was disconnected the Blazer did not want to give up the engine. Nice fitment of the oilpan and the front differential. I think I'll take the intake off the replacement engine since I'll be replacing the gasket anyhow. Can't wait to get this thing back in, promises to be fun.

Thank for the suggestions and help.

Chuck

[chucks70]

As stated, I have a '99 Blazer, the engine I have to put in is from a '98. Do I have to change the flexplate over? I have changed the exhaust manifolds and water temp sending unit.

Thanks
Chuck

[Arad68]

Originally Posted by 68C15

he means a flex-head ratcheting wrench ie. Gear Wrench.
I use a regular box wrench to loosen it then grab a sandwich and a snickers bar so I have something to do with my right hand while I spend the next 1/2 hour with the stubby wrench the rest of the way.
for the fuel line retainer I use a 1/4" flex ratchet and a short 9/16" socket. you may want to wear a glove or wrap your hand in a shop rag. the steering shaft and shift linkage are NOT friendly.
don't forget the 3 ground bolts (2 on pass. head and 1 on drivers head).
while I have the engine out I take a hammer and bend the firewall-toe board lip BACK so I have room for a swivel chrome socket upon assembly.
you do know you WILL need a scan tool (not just a code reader) for setting the cam retard after starting it.

Damien, these do not have a quick coupler for the heater hoses. thankfully.

if you need advice "on the run" so to speak PM me for my cell #. I have done so many of these I can just about do them blindfolded. for some strange reason people don't heed my advice about replacing the leaking oil cooler lines.
that reminds me.
REPLACE THOSE OIL COOLER LINES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

EDIT: also replace the motor mounts and install the engine cooler lines on before you stuff the motor in. leave the shipping cap on the oil filter end until you hook them up.

How hard is it to change the oil cooler lines with the engine in. Mine are leaking. (2002 S10 4.3)

[Damien]

The flex plate is the same. I would use which ever one is in better condition.

[Damien]

They suck, but are very doable. You shouldn't need to lift the engine up. you'll want to jack up the truck.

[Arad68]

Thanks for the advice. I'll tackle them this weekend.

[68C15]

sorry I haven't seen this for a while.
if (as most are) your motor mounts are sagging you will need to jack up the engine with a block of wood about 2" to get the lines past the front differential. I use a looooong 3/8" extension to place the ratchet in front of the sway bar and turn the chrome swivel 13mm socket on the engine end of the lines. then pop that loose letting them drain into a pan while I go after the small bolt (takes a 10mm socket) holding the lines to the front of engine. then take the filter end off and set the whole works in a drain pan. next I remove the upper fan shroud, fan (takes a special wrench, mine is used with an air hammer and made by Lisle <super cool tool>), and lower shroud. lower shroud is removed with a flat screwdriver to pry the 2 tabs from the snap in slots at the lower front as veiwed from above. then depending on if yours has the hex nuts (20mm) or clip type I take the cooler lines free from the radiator. while they are out i take a pliers to the large bulkhead nuts at the cooler to make sure they are tight and don't leak coolant. getting the clip type lines off the cooler is a PITA but don't worry if the clips get mangled. the new lines come with new clips. make sure the old O-rings are not stuck in the cooler. reverse procedure to install.


edit; Dorman lines have the bracket for attaching them to the engine installed upside down. I have no idea why, they just do. i lay the new ones next to the old ones to get it correct before installation.

[Arad68]

68C15,
Thanks for your detailed instructions, they will be useful.
Mine is a 2wd, but I am sure it makes no difference. My truck has about 30k on it. My kid used the lines for a hand hold while I had the truck jacked up and it loosed them up.
I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks for the tip on the Dorman lines