73-87 Turn Switch Installation thread!

[West Texas Z]

Hey guys, I'v recieved so much help here on this forum that I decided it was my turn to help out a bit. Here is the method and pictures taken in my turn switch installation this weekend. Took about 1.5 hours. enjoy!!

First Remove the horn button. It should pry off fairly easy.


Next remove the horn mechanism plates. Should be a 1/2 inch spacer with 3 bolts, and a flat metal contact plate.



Next use a steering wheel or harmonic balancer puller to remove the steering wheel. But first test fit the bolts to that you dont strip the threads with the wrong bolt when you start pulling.





Next remove the dust cap, should pry off with a twist. Be careful, this plastice trim is very thin and could break. Behind the dust cap is another metal plate that has a metal ring retainer in place that needs to be pulled out. We used a flat head screw driver while pushing the plate in at the same time. You need a partner for this part to do the pushing while the other removes the ring. Sorry for no photo!! but dont worry, once you get here its self explanitory.


Here is where you should be at now with everything removed. As you can see 25 years of steering has taken a toll on my switch. Now remove the 3 screws that hold the switch in place.

[West Texas Z]

Unplug the old switch under the dash board. Pull the old one out from the steering column. I had to drop the steering column down to get the plastic clip to slide up the saft. Its a simple two 1/2" bolt removal.








Here you can see the how filthy it was:


Cleaned it up a bit before istalling it back: Make sure not to push in the turn signal arm in!! you can see the little clip on the left. Next photo will show it bolted on correctly.


Now slide the plastic clip down the shaft carefully making sure that you dont get any wires snagged on anything. Here is the new switch correctly installed with the bolts attached.


Now reverse the installation and everything should work!!! Dont forget to bolt up everything back. I hope this works and was easy to understand.

[asphaltburner]

Yo! Lets consolidate my thread with this one! My pics are a little better, but you specifically address the chore, and mine is more to address the poor amount of online knowledge about the horn and steering wheels. Yours does go thru the assembly process nicely.
Thanks for putting this together. Sure would be nice to see these kind of step by step procedures online for lots of other stuff! Takes time though!
Here's the link to mine:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...teering+column
Thanks again West Texas Z
Todd.

[West Texas Z]

Originally Posted by asphaltburner

Yo! Lets consolidate my thread with this one! My pics are a little better, but you specifically address the chore, and mine is more to address the poor amount of online knowledge about the horn and steering wheels. Yours does go thru the assembly process nicely.
Thanks for putting this together. Sure would be nice to see these kind of step by step procedures online for lots of other stuff! Takes time though!
Here's the link to mine:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...teering+column
Thanks again West Texas Z
Todd.

Yes! all the pics I needed you took and vice versa.

[bitchin85]

not trying to sound arrogant or anything, but wouldnt it almost be easier to just find a steering column at a junkyard and swap the hole thing? my buddy has a 94 cutlass and the switch went out and the switch is 65 dollars.. a steering column pulled is 50.. so im just swapping the column for him tuesday.

[West Texas Z]

Originally Posted by *****in85

not trying to sound arrogant or anything, but wouldnt it almost be easier to just find a steering column at a junkyard and swap the hole thing? my buddy has a 94 cutlass and the switch went out and the switch is 65 dollars.. a steering column pulled is 50.. so im just swapping the column for him tuesday.

The switch was $30 brand new. Who knows if the swap will be any good? I'd rather fix what belongs in the truck correctly than second guess a swap.

[bitchin85]

Originally Posted by West Texas Z

The switch was $30 brand new. Who knows if the swap will be any good? I'd rather fix what belongs in the truck correctly than second guess a swap.

good point..

[staggerd86c-10]

very cool write up thanks for taking your time to help us out how much more labor is involved in changing the ignition switch?

[West Texas Z]

Your welcome. asphaltburner really helped with his thread. Both combined really puts it all in place correctly. Mine worked like a charm as soon as I bolted everything up!

2 hrs tops to get the job done.

[kelsfine69]

There is a lock plate tool that pushes on the lockplate so you can get the snapring out making it a 1 person job. The lockplate with the plastic cover is then removed in one piece.

[West Texas Z]

Originally Posted by kelsfine69

There is a lock plate tool that pushes on the lockplate so you can get the snapring out making it a 1 person job. The lockplate with the plastic cover is then removed in one piece.

You are correct. This would have helped a lot. ^

[asphaltburner]

Yo! Thanks for the nice words,...glad we could put it together in one thread. This will be searchable from now on!
P.S. I thought about fabricating my own hold-down tool, but the damn thing was about $14,...I'll certainly use it again and again!
Todd.

[staggerd86c-10]

whats the part number for the canceling cam, i think they sell them at advanced autoparts in the help section.

[West Texas Z]

Originally Posted by staggerd86c-10

whats the part number for the canceling cam, i think they sell them at advanced autoparts in the help section.

I got mine at Autozone. But the ones in the self help section are just the plastic clip part. No wiring.

[bucannon]

What happened to the photos?