Need a 5 lug rearend, what're my options..

[oldblue1968chevy]

I currently have a 68 373 6 lug rearend blasted and painted nice.

I aquired a 5 lug 373 that everyones saying the gears are junk in.

I need a 5 lug rearend to run some wheels I got. What're my optons?

1-ECE conversion axles $$$$$

2-keep hunting for good 5 lug rearend

3-drill my current axles (is that safe?)

4-get 73+ rearend (fab skills i dont have)

5-other

thank you

[Walts_restoration]

l think 5 lug 71-72 rears are narrower by an inch or something i think. So that option wont work i beleive. If they are wider i dont know if a machinist couldnt cut them down for you and then you could use them.

Or have a machinist redrill your current axleshafts (if they are usable) or order some 28 spline axles from summit in the correct length for your 6 lug rear.

[David67]

Originally Posted by Walts_restoration

l think 5 lug 71-72 rears are narrower by an inch or something i think. So that option wont work i beleive. If they are wider i dont know if a machinist couldnt cut them down for you and then you could use them.

Or have a machinist redrill your current axleshafts (if they are usable) or order some 28 spline axles from summit in the correct length for your 6 lug rear.

The later model years 70-72 are the wider axles. The 67-69 axles are 30.75" while the later ones are 31.5". I've ordered a 5 lug conversion from CPP that is currently on backorder. It comes with the 5 lug drums and a new gasket as well for the differential cover.

Here's the link:
http://www.classicperform.com/Store/...k/6569RACK.htm

[usmcchevy]

If it were me, I would ether try to find an entire 71-72 rear or just take both rearends to someone and have them put your 68 gears in the 5 lug housing. You could even do it yourself if you have the time/know how...well dont even need the know how, just ask someone on here!

[Walts_restoration]

Originally Posted by usmcchevy

If it were me, I would ether try to find an entire 71-72 rear or just take both rearends to someone and have them put your 68 gears in the 5 lug housing. You could even do it yourself if you have the time/know how...well dont even need the know how, just ask someone on here!

Doh! i was thinking this but forgot to add it. If they are both the same rears then just swap gears from 6 lugger to the 5 lugger, well if everything else in the 5 lug rear is good and its straight.

[jbristo67]

Originally Posted by Walts_restoration

l think 5 lug 71-72 rears are narrower by an inch or something i think. So that option wont work i beleive. If they are wider i dont know if a machinist couldnt cut them down for you and then you could use them.

Or have a machinist redrill your current axleshafts (if they are usable) or order some 28 spline axles from summit in the correct length for your 6 lug rear.

I have a 72 chevy rear in my 67 with no mod.

[lolife99]

Keep looking for a 71-72 axle.

[Jacfourteen]

I would say take both to someone who knows how to swap gears. Don't do it yourself, I've rebuilt multiple engines, pulled tons of engines and trannies, and lots of other stuff with no trouble, but when I swapped gears I ended up with a carrier busted in two pieces.

[Shane]

pick up a '73-'87 ... salvage yards are full of them and they're cheap ... then buy some 3" axle perches and pay someone to weld them up for ya.

I would almost bet this is still cheaper than finding a '71-'72 rear

[oldblue1968chevy]

cool guys keep it comming!

I just sold a 73-87 rolling frame for 75$ to my buddy ima have him open it up and check gear ratio may go that way

or I may buy conversion axles not sure yet...

swapping internals sounds really $ right now...thanks keep it comming!

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by oldblue1968chevy

cool guys keep it comming!

I just sold a 73-87 rolling frame for 75$ to my buddy ima have him open it up and check gear ratio may go that way

or I may buy conversion axles not sure yet...

swapping internals sounds really $ right now...thanks keep it comming!

Is your truck leaf or coil sping?
If you put a 73+ rearend under a coil spring truck, you have to use a Super Track Bar like ECE sells.
(since there is no provision for it cast into the center section like the 67-72 rearends).

[chevytruckluver]

I may buy conversion axles not sure yet...

swapping internals sounds really $ right now...thanks keep it comming!

I would think you could get the gears swapped for less than axles would cost.

[oldblue1968chevy]

Its coil springs. What should I pay for a GOOD rearend? Im going to goodguys in nashville think I could score a rearend there? Or conversion axles? Thanks lolife!

[oldblue1968chevy]

Really?

But I would still have to sandblast and repaint everything..Im lazy lol but I can work harder if im saving $

What kind of shop would do rear diff. work? Thanks!

[mr48chev]

It will probably cost just about the same to have someone swap the gears out as it would to have the axles redrilled.

You can send the axles off to Moser or one of the other shops that does it but usually one of the local machine shops can do it for a reasonable cost. You would want to take them the studs you want to run though so they get things right.

[c10seconds]

Just get your 6 lug axles drilled. It should cost less than $100.00. Thats what was done to the axles in the rear end I just removed from my truck. I never had any issues

[c1069]

Keep looking ..........recently found one, do not worry. find one like me

[mdwilf]

Use the longer 5 lug axles in your older rear, then get the wider brake drums for the later 70's trucks (2 3/4, I think) & they will cover the brake shoes. You'll have to use the narrower shoes (2").

[jbristo67]

I know where 4 or 5 5 lug rears are

[oldblue1968chevy]

Will that work? :S Mdwilf? Thanks!

jbristo, your in TX lol

[mdwilf]

I've driven one that way for a few thousand miles & I'm doing it in the restoration I'm doing right now for a customer/friend. I was told that trick by someone who knows this era of trucks better than anyone I've ever met.

If you want to test my fix, measure the axles & see how far they are the same diameter - measuring from the end of the axle towards the "pumpkin ball" end. Then remove your old axles & measure the width of the axle bearings. Install the axle & then measure the gap from the bearing to the end of the axle & add the width of the bearing. If that total is less that the 1st measurement (distance that the axle is the same diameter) then you are good.

You might be able to cifer all this out by measuring the wear marks on your old axles.

Install your 2" wide brakes & put on the 2 3/4 drum. You will find it covers quite nicely.

I hope this all makes sense. It's late for an old man!!

[myoldchevytruck]

not sure of the year (seller never posted it) but maybe this will work
http://chattanooga.craigslist.org/pts/1711898392.html
good luck

[Longhorn Man]

i don't recomend the long axles in a short rear end. While it'll probably work for a long time, the bearings will be riding on a non hardened surface, and there's more leverage adding stress to the shafts.
Do it right the first time and you won't be stranded with a snapped axle shaft and a wheel sticking out an extra foot and/or damaging the bed side.

[fastom]

Summit Racing sells replacement axles for our trucks!

[mdwilf]

Originally Posted by Longhorn Man

i don't recomend the long axles in a short rear end. While it'll probably work for a long time, the bearings will be riding on a non hardened surface, and there's more leverage adding stress to the shafts.
Do it right the first time and you won't be stranded with a snapped axle shaft and a wheel sticking out an extra foot and/or damaging the bed side.

I'm asking - not debating - is the "hardened spot" really that small?