Motor Pulling SOB

[gontek]

I've got a gusher of a leak from the rear main seal and I want to pull the motor and transmission to fix that and also for the experience. I aim to look over everything on the motor and put it back together to a long term owner standard. I am a motor pulling virgin, but I have a mechanic in the family who agreed to loan me a hoist and engine stand, but mostly I am working on my own.

My question is:
1. How much room do I need in front of the truck to comfortably pull the 350 and T400 transmission? My garage is not huge and the long bed takes up a lot of space, there is maybe 3 feet between the front bumper and my workbench now, 5 or 6 feet between the bumper and garage wall. Also, is the hoist operation a two man job? Can I remove the fender and lift out forward and to the side, and not need as much room in front?

I've read some other posts about motor pulling and they were extremely helpful even though I probably need to read them again.

A few notes:
1970 C-10 with motor probably a '77 chevy 350 and T400 trans
I am using socket wrenches not air tools
Truck has ac
I only have about an hour a day to dedicate to this project

Chances are good this will turn in to an engine rebuild, transmission swap, or frame off resto. On the flipside I am anxious to complete the task and get the truck running and functional again asap.

Look forward to reading your responses.

[Walts_restoration]

i drop the trans then pull the motor. I dont pull as an assembled unit. Although you could take the front clip off to make it easier, and to get more room roll it backwards out of the shop, BLOCK IT (no trans=no park gear) and then pull motor.

[QKENUF4U]

as WR said.. pull trans then pull motor... pull your hood off and make sure ya got enough room to lift motor up (ceiling height ?) and push truck out... block it and put engine on stand... have fun , take your time, take lots of pics if need be...
good luck its fun if you know what youre doing....

[cdowns]

alot faster to pull as unit// unhook everything possible,rad out ,lift up and slowly push truck back a bit at a time in a small garage is how i do it

[Shyguy]

When we pull engines we remove the radiator first.

It will be easiest to remove the transmission from the engine before pulling the engine as others have said.

[Sinister]

Last time I pulled a motor I left the transmission in. Put a piece of wood under the pan a slipped a jack under it.

[cdowns]

the trouble is its alot more trouble in a small home shop twice the work twice the time to remove as seperate units// no tranny jacks no fancy driveon lifts etc// just a basic engine hoist and floor jack is what is required

[gontek]

From what I've read there is about 50/50 opinion on the transmission attached/separate unit argument. I am planning to pull the trans anyway, so I have 90% decided to pull it all out at once. In my head I was thinking jackstand the truck but now that I have learned to roll the truck out from under the hoisted engine I can formulate my plan of attack.

The radiator was the first thing to come out, and I have a dented grill, bumper, and fender so a lot of things are coming off this truck and going back on will be new hood hinges, battery tray, hoses, grill, fender and god knows what else. I'm tearing it all out. Taking lots of photos and taping wires with notated flags as well. Thanks for the advice.

[gkesseru]

If you're planning to do a lot of front clip rebuild/replace, then consider pulling the front clip off as a unit. Either way pull off the hood. You disconnect the wires at the firewall (bolt in the middle of the connector), and the starter, unbolt the radiator support panel mount bolts (two in the bottom), unbolt the cowl. The you remove the two bolts at the top of the rear of the fender and one at the bottom.there is also one bolt on each side holding the inner fender to the cab (about 2/3 way back toward the inside. The whole front end will then come off as a unit.

[gontek]

Sweet, that is good advice. I am sure I have been wasting time unbolting a lot of pointless bolts and screws, when what I want to do is get to the point and get the whole front clip off and move on to the engine.

[Shyguy]

Pulling an engine with the front clip off is a piece of cake so to speak.

When we put the engine in my '67 with the front clip off the engine went in so easy.

I have found if the front clip is on when removing or installing an engine it usually is a lot easier with at least one helper to watch out for interferences.

[Hottrucks]

DO NOT DISCONNECT YOUR A/C take the compressor off and lay it some where or your looking at recharging the hole thing..the rest is piece of cake...make sure you don't forget the trans shift linkage, speedo cable, and oil sending line..the rest is plug and play...

use fel pro gaskets ..I like to clean the hole thing and paint it then replace the gaskets I love the clean look

[gontek]

Yeah, I was wondering about the AC. Compressor has been off since forever.

I am looking forward to having this thing clean. Any time I work on a new part on the underside of my truck I have to scrape off 1/2 inch or more of red clay. I cant wait to get the front end cleaned up, and have it hold fluids.

[67chevy1series]

well just to be sure the lenght of a longbed is about how much room you will need to pull the motor here at my house we usually take the radiator out the fan and disconnect the hoses the main wires to the firewall and take the hood of to disconnect the driveline from the axle and trans then drain all the oil from the tranny then start pulling the engine up and out and guide it out of the front end then after that go get a beer and enjoy what you did

[GASoline71]

Pulling the motor and trans together is EZPZ... since the confined space. Either drain the oil out of the tranny or put a ziploc bag over the tailshaft with a rubber band. Or tranny fluid will come out of the tailshaft.

If you only have an hour a day to put towards getting the engine and trans out... it will make it difficult to do.

Gary

[67/72junkie]

For what you want pull the front clip then motor and trans together.Remove the bumper first.disconnect battery.Unhook the wiring harness from the firewall and then unhook the engine harness from the light harness.Remove brace from driver side inner fender around lower steering column.remove radiator.Remove 2 radiator support bolts.Remove wiper arms and cowl.remove 4 upper fender bolts and 2 lower fender bolts.2 bolts thru inner fenders .5/8s underneath.check for ant ground straps and any lines still hooked to ac condensor.you can then remove front clip with one person on each side.If you remove the hood you willl be able to flex it a little and if your tires are not to big it will come off.If you set on jack stands and remove the tires you do not have to remove the hood from clip and it will come off alot easier.The problem comes when tires are still on and the passenger side inner fender wants to bind in between tire and ac box.Once clip is removed the engine and trans are simple .just double check and make sure everything is unhooked before you lift.

[gontek]

Its a lot easier to get stuff done when it's not so hot out.

[gontek]

I think you can see in the second and third pics how the transmission came off the driveshaft. I was told that would be impossible to slip that back on and I would have probably need to remove the driveshaft to put it back together, is that the case really? I don't see why it would be so hard to slip that back on.

The Universal joints on this truck dont unbolt, they are pressed in real tight spicers. I would have liked to undo a Ujoint near the transmission, but I think that might have taken a bit more effort and time, hopefully I haven't done it in a way that will cause more effort to put it back on.

[gontek]

[gontek]

[ERASER5]

Yea, you're going to need to pull the drive shaft, unless you have 6 buddies that can help push, pull, lift, twist, angle, and align in perfect unison.

The rear U-joint unbolts, and pops out. Wrap tape around the loose U-joint to keep the caps and needle bearing clean and in place. Then the carrier (middle of the shaft) unbolt from the cross member. Just let it lay there.

[westofb]

I don't understand why you would want to pull the trans to change out a rear main seal? I would remove only the motor and leave the trans in the truck, that would be the simpliest method.

[raycow]

Originally Posted by westofb

I would remove only the motor and leave the trans in the truck, that would be the simpliest method.

Not when you are trying to put it back together. Try bolting the transmission to the engine both in and out of the truck and you will know why.

Ray

[westofb]

Originally Posted by raycow

Not when you are trying to put it back together. Try bolting the transmission to the engine both in and out of the truck and you will know why.

Ray

Done many times, it is easier and cheaper to leave the trans in the truck....this isn't rocket science, pretty simple infact. Why mess with unhooking all the trans stuff (linkage, driveshaft, etc) and loose a considerable amount of trans fluid in the process. Only 6 bell housing bolts and 3 or 4 convertor bolts to remove.
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[oldgold70c10]

Originally Posted by raycow

Not when you are trying to put it back together. Try bolting the transmission to the engine both in and out of the truck and you will know why.

Ray

What?! I have, several times in a small garage and it is easy. Just get the dowel pins lined up and some bolts in. A bottle jack & some wood under the pan makes lining it up simple. Then bolt the engine to the engine mounts.
Like everyone else says, unless the trans needs to come out, just leave it in the truck. A 2x4 the right length between the frame rails works nicely to support the trans if you need to move the truck while the engine out.