front brakes: 1" vs 1.25"

[swb85]

What all is different in the front brake system between the 1" and 1.25" rotors? Is it just the rotors and spindle or are the calipers and pads different too? I've got 1.25" rotors on my truck and want to swap to the 1" setup to fit the new lowering spindles I picked up. What all parts do I need?

[texasfunk]

You will indeed need the rotors (of course) and calipers as well, and with that I believe pads, but can't quote me on that.

[booger69]

i did this same swap the pads are the same you will need calipers rotors and brake lines for the 11x2" brake set up

[swb85]

The rubber brake lines are different too?

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by swb85

The rubber brake lines are different too?

No.
EDIT:
I stand corrected by post below.

[booger69]

yes the ends that go on the calibers are different first pic is for 1.25" set up and second is for 1"

[westofb]

Are the wheel bearings, races, and grease seals the same....not that it matters to me but the original poster will probably need to know this.

[booger69]

forgot that part but yes they are different

[swb85]

Thanks guys, yet another parts store run tonight I guess!
This budget lowering job (shackles/hangers/spindles) has now cost me over twice as much as I planned on, and about 5x as much time. I need a new (cheaper) hobby.....

[LONGHAIR]

Originally Posted by swb85

This budget lowering job has now cost me over twice as much as I planned on, and about 5x as much time.

That's why the kits only "seem" expensive........Trying tp "piece" things together can be costly and still not be "better" in any way, usually a compromise at best.
A well engineered kit is far easier to deal with and generally pretty predictable. (lowering or lifting)

[swb85]

Originally Posted by LONGHAIR

That's why the kits only "seem" expensive........Trying tp "piece" things together can be costly and still not be "better" in any way, usually a compromise at best.
A well engineered kit is far easier to deal with and generally pretty predictable. (lowering or lifting)

I actually bought a nice "kit" with shackles/hangers & spindles. What bit me is that my truck originally came with 1" brakes, so I ordered spindles for 1" brakes without measuring my rotors......but it turns out at some point before I got the truck, someone put 1.25" brakes on it and I didn't find out until I got in there. I couldn't return the spindles, so I had to replace the rotors/hubs, wheel bearings, calipers and brake lines just to make the spindles work! On top of that, my ball joints and tie rods were trashed when I got in there, so I had to rebuild most of the front end. On the back end, the 4" drop made my drive shaft too long so I had to have it shortened and rebalanced. Moral of the story, don't ASSume anything and measure EVERYTHING first.

[shimp]

Never had an issue with Driveshaft length though. You must have put a manual trans in your truck, most came with an Auto? I never had issues with Drive shaft length when lowering a standard amount, like 2,4,6 inch drop kits for rear.

[kevinr1970]

Potential dumb question, but the 1" vs. 1.25" refers to the thickness of the rotors right?

[LONGHAIR]

Originally Posted by swb85

I actually bought a nice "kit" with shackles/hangers & spindles. I couldn't return the spindles, so I had to replace the rotors/hubs, wheel bearings, calipers and brake lines just to make the spindles work!

Seems like a shakey vendor situation there. That seems like a simple thing for them to fix, even if they made you send the wrong ones back to them first.

Originally Posted by kevinr1970

Potential dumb question, but the 1" vs. 1.25" refers to the thickness of the rotors right?

Yes, not so dumb either. Someone else wanted to know too....they just didn't ask.

[swb85]

Originally Posted by LONGHAIR

Seems like a shakey vendor situation there. That seems like a simple thing for them to fix, even if they made you send the wrong ones back to them first.

Guess I should have worded that differently. They would have let me return them like you say (send old ones back first, I pay shipping), but this truck is my daily driver and I couldn't afford to be w/out a vehicle for 2 weeks while I sent the 1" spindles back and waited on new spindles to be shipped/delivered. The option I chose was a little more expensive, but it was WAY faster and now I know that everything in my front end is in good shape.


shimp: Yes I swapped the M21 into my truck and the drive shaft isn't the original. I don't remember what I got it from, but it fit so I used it! Was just an inch too long after dropping the truck 4".

[Keith Seymore]

Here's the brake release chart for '87 (should be the same for '85 - I just happened to have this one handy).

The 1" rotor goes on the manual brake applications (JB1), and the lightest duty power system (JB3). The majority of the vehicles were built with the 1.25 rotor (JB5 system).

K

[SCOTI]

The difference in spindles (Which ones do I have?) can be verified by checking what wheel bearings fit since the 1" brake rotors use different (inner?) bearings.

[Sinisterv10]

Well i picked up some bearings from the parts store and apparently i have the spindles that go with the 1.25" rotors so the camaro rotor swap is out unless i get aftermarket lowering spindles or stock 1" spindles. Since the truck is not a DD im having the rotors drilled for now while decide. Thanks for the info.

[UKNOWME]

Originally Posted by Sinisterv10

Well i picked up some bearings from the parts store and apparently i have the spindles that go with the 1.25" rotors so the camaro rotor swap is out unless i get aftermarket lowering spindles or stock 1" spindles. Since the truck is not a DD im having the rotors drilled for now while decide. Thanks for the info.

Sounds like you're already going the easiest and most cost efficient route.

[Sinisterv10]

Originally Posted by UKNOWME

Sounds like you're already going the easiest and most cost efficient route.

Found me some rotors with literally no wear but had them turned just to make sure i start fresh. Got new bearings then had them re drilled. The drilling was done with a CNC machine and the quality is very good. I thought the holes were kinda close to each other for my liking but i liked the fact that the support lugs on the back remained intact. here is a picture of the front and back.