Best Flaring tool?

[texastrendz]

What is the best flaring tool for a 45 degree double? I only want to buy it once. I will be flaring stainless tubing for the brake system. Tell me what you would buy or have. thanks daniel. p.s. i want a manual version and not a hydraulic one.

[cableguy0]

You should be ok with most of the major brands. I have attempted to use a few of the cheapies from various parts stores etc and they suck. The snap on set i normally use always works and works good. I cant speak for the other brands such as cornwell mac or matco but I can say stay away from the cheapies if you want good flares that wont break or leak.

[shaneo2112RUSH]

i like this one from The Eastwood Company! Looks simple to use.

http://www.eastwood.com/professional...ring-tool.html

[bagged69chevy]

The eastwood flare tool is super nice. I purchased it and used it on stainless line. Works perfect. I would stay away from the cheap flare tools. It's not the most expensive flare tool on the market but for around 200-250 it's the best tool on the market in my opinion.

[Shane]

check around locally and find out if any rents the hydraulic unit ... they are too cost prohibitive to purchase, but man ol' man what nice flares they make in stainless.

[cdowns]

rigid makes great stuff google them up for a local dealer

[jlaird]

Ridgid....hands down. link

[texastrendz]

looked on rigids site, can you get the ratchet tool to do double flare, looks like single only. i see that you can get the 345 model to double flare, would this tool do the job, open to opinions, thanks daniel

[jlaird]

Hmmm, you're right, it doesn't look like they make a double flare tool that does stainless. That sucks cause these tools are truly great. I have a middle-of-the-road 45 degree double flaring tool and a Ridgid 37 degree tool and the feel between the two is like night and day.

But to answer your question, yes the 345-DL will do the job. Mine is similar and works, but its tough, especially on your hands. My advice is to make sure the tool is in a vise and put gloves on. It helps a lot.

[Thealien]

Mastercool hydaulic flaring tool. Was about $300 and worth every penny. I bought it to do the GM pushlok flares for the fuel injected fuel line. It makes perfect flares, every time. I also bought the 37 degree dies to do AN tube nuts.

[jlaird]

I thought those Mastercool's were more than that. That a good deal too. Wish I had one.

[Thealien]

http://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemDi...ookup=MAS71475

Originally Posted by jlaird

I thought those Mastercool's were more than that. That a good deal too. Wish I had one.

[texastrendz]

that was going to be my next question, what is right for stainless? is 37* strong enough on a single flare? from what i have read, brake lines are 45 double flare, if i can get a way with 37* single i am all for it, daniel.

[robnolimit]

When flaring stainless. you shoudl use 37deg AN style hardware. That means tube sleaves and flare nuts. 45deg double flare is for standard nickled steel line. Stainless will crack if you double flare it. you will have more sucess with aluminum fittings, as they are softer and will conform to the stainless flare. I like the hydro flare tools. I got mine from "Pure Choice" motorsports, they also have the Ridgid hand flaring tools. If you are stuck on the stainless lines, Pure Choice will have the special adapters for the master cyl. Earls is a source for fittings. JUst a note for everyones info. Stainless tubing is not DOT legal for brake lines due to the fatigue factors. I do use it on show winners, but for street and track use builds we use steel lines. Also, I tend to stay away from the stainless and billit line clamps, in favor of the rubber insulated style, the allow for some flex, and less rattle noises. "Del-City Wire" is a graet place to get them.

[texastrendz]

not set on stainless, just wanted a nice finish to the truck when it is all said and done. stainless is really not that much more money. i think that i have done the research that i am going to buy the hydraulic style tool since it will cover almost all types of flares and have only one tool to keep track of. is there another option to pretty lines other then stainless?

[dwcsr]

I got the Rigid 345-DL a few years ago and its been a great tool. As long as you prep the tube properly you'll get perfect flares with it.

[texastrendz]

man i sure like that eastwood tool, just watched a you tube video of it, pretty slick. gonna have to do some research on it. wander who makes it for them?

[Shane]

Originally Posted by texastrendz

man i sure like that eastwood tool, just watched a you tube video of it, pretty slick. gonna have to do some research on it. wander who makes it for them?

you can almost bet it has the name Ding, Dong, or Xiang in it.

[clinebarger]

Why whould anyone want to double flare stainless? All your doing is ruining your tool & working real hard. If you got to run stainless lines why not do it right and go 37 degree -AN/JIC.

[Shane]

hey rob ... how does inline tube and other companies sell their pre-bent stainless lines for street-legal use if they aren't DOT approved?

[robnolimit]

I don't know, all I can tell you is what I've read. I'm not saying it can't be done or doesn't work, you know? Justto be carefull and do it right.

[Shane]

Originally Posted by robnolimit

I don't know, all I can tell you is what I've read. I'm not saying it can't be done or doesn't work, you know? Justto be carefull and do it right.

i wasn't doubting what you stated, just wondered how they got by with it.

thanks for the heads up!

[texastrendz]

man now i am totally confused, what the hell to use. lol. i want to do it once, not leak, look good, and last forever. whats it gonna take? what are the builders using, maybe i will ask nate over a porterbuilt what he uses. keep the suggestions coming.

[ERASER5]

I just re-tubed my Durango from the rear ABS to each wheel cylinder. This was not a show job, just a it-has-to-work-every-time job.

Tubing-- AutoZones nickel/copper/steel alloy in a 25 foot roll. This stuff is the greatest! It bends nice, it can un-bend for corrections (try that with stainless!), and it will not rust.

Flare nuts-- Get 4 or so of the correct size. MC flare nut may be different sizes.

Bender-- I have specific size benders, I have cheap multi size bender, I have a nice multi-size bender. For the Ni/Cop tube, I like my Eastwood bending pliers. They work very well. About $30.

Flaring tool-- Unless you are going to adapt every inverted flare fitting to AN fittings, you will need a double flare kit. I recommend the KD Tools double/bubble flare kit (KDT41880). This is a very good flaring tool. You may not need the bubble flare tools on your truck, but you may need it on something else. My Durango had bubble flares, so I needed it. The KDT41860 is about the same as the KDT41889 but only double flare, and the cheap one is the KDT2199. I have had the KDT2199 for years, it works, but it can drive you to cussing. The clamp and flare hoop are different, as in inferior to the KDT41860 and the KDT41880.

I have Ridgid 45 degree and 37 degree flare tools. For single flare, there is none better. Neither work well for double flares. I've tried, the are just not made to use the belling anvil. The KD tool really works well.

[texastrendz]

wish i could buy prebent, i have a stepnotch in the rear and a porter built crossmember up front. nothing stock on the truck, if i bought prebent i figured i would spend more time changing them then just bending new ones.