It's official...I've lost my mind---Look what followed me home

[70C10Toejam]

A '52 3800, drug it back from Ft. Dodge. About 90 miles each way. Drove the county roads back, only went 45-50 mph. All in all that ol' C10 did a pretty good job handling it. The trailer has electric brakes, but my truck doesn't.

The bed sides and front clip are real strong, but the Flintstone power-adder in the cab...

[Indian113]

Okay Chad,what ya got planned for it?

[Dan in Pasadena]

Stupid question I suppose, but the 3800 is a one ton? Is that a nine foot bed? I really like those. In my youth I would have turned my nose up at the bigger trucks but I like the idea of one now. I'd make a daily out of it.

[70C10Toejam]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

Stupid question I suppose, but the 3800 is a one ton? Is that a nine foot bed? I really like those. In my youth I would have turned my nose up at the bigger trucks but I like the idea of one now. I'd make a daily out of it.

Yup, it's a one ton. I went a measured, and it is 9 foot bed. Thought it looked long, but the AD trucks always looked small to me. Didn't think it would have been 8 foot, let alone 9.

[BlueJeep]

That's what mine started out as....3800 with a 9' bed. Very long indeed! I've seen that on craigslist for the last several weeks, and briefly thought about taking a look at it but decided I didn't need another project.

If you want to drive it for any distance, you'll probably want a different engine in it (235 vs. the 216) and you'll wand to do something about the rear diff gears. Stock, it's got 5.13's.

[enick72]

What is avail for rear gears in the ADs. I have a 55 1st and am leaving as close to original as poss. I have thought of swapping the trans out for a T5 but if I could get gear set for better driving I'd be happy

nice truck by the way, looks like a good project.

[70C10Toejam]

Originally Posted by enick72

What is avail for rear gears in the ADs. I have a 55 1st and am leaving as close to original as poss. I have thought of swapping the trans out for a T5 but if I could get gear set for better driving I'd be happy

nice truck by the way, looks like a good project.

A very relevant question...waiting for the answer. Looking at it makes me think of a F--- 9 inch.

Thank you.

[raycow]

Originally Posted by BlueJeep

If you want to drive it for any distance, you'll probably want a different engine in it (235 vs. the 216) and you'll wand to do something about the rear diff gears. Stock, it's got 5.13's.

It's got a 235 in there now, but the gears will still need attention unless the rear was changed too.

Ray

[70C10Toejam]

Originally Posted by enick72

I called Patrick today and got some info. He has a 3:36 gear set and also a master rebuild kit which includes all bearings, seals etc. Around $550 for the whole set up, and about $350-$375 for just the gear set.
He did quote this to me for a 55 1st and not sure if yours will be different or not.

BlueJeep
"They're all like that. It's how they're "supposed" to be from the factory. "
Is this more noticeable on the 1 tons or long beds.

I found a writeup on Stovebolt.com http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/rear_end/index.html
Think I'll just change the whole rear end, those torque tubes sound like way too much work.

I did notice how the wheels lined up, and thought it did seem "normal", nothing out of the ordinary. Good to find out it is normal.

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

Nice score Chad!

Originally Posted by 72BlckButy

Nice buy!

Thanks guys, now I got something to work on since I do have to haul things. Two yards of mulch and a yard of black dirt a couple weeks ago.

[70C10Toejam]

Gut the interior, but I think I might need some shots first.
See if it will turn over/run.
Get a floor in it.
After that, not sure. Upgrade the front end. If I can, pull some leaves from the rear springs to lower it a bit and soften the ride. Looked around here a bit and like the idea of doing the truck-arm conversion on the back too.

Gonna leave the body patina'ed for now.

With that farmers hitch on it, i could use it to pull my boat easily.

[72BlckButy]

Nice buy!

[T Hilde]

I got a better drivers door I'll trade you for. I just need it for the top when I do a chop on the next truck.

[enick72]

I called Patrick today and got some info. He has a 3:36 gear set and also a master rebuild kit which includes all bearings, seals etc. Around $550 for the whole set up, and about $350-$375 for just the gear set.
He did quote this to me for a 55 1st and not sure if yours will be different or not.

BlueJeep
"They're all like that. It's how they're "supposed" to be from the factory. "
Is this more noticeable on the 1 tons or long beds.

[BlueJeep]

Originally Posted by enick72

BlueJeep
"They're all like that. It's how they're "supposed" to be from the factory. "
Is this more noticeable on the 1 tons or long beds.

I think so, probably because the tires are larger than on the 1/2 tons. Most people who swap rear axles you'll find also move the axle back to center it more in the opening. I did the same when I set mine down on the s10 frame.

[raycow]

Originally Posted by enick72

I called Patrick today and got some info. He has a 3:36 gear set and also a master rebuild kit which includes all bearings, seals etc. Around $550 for the whole set up, and about $350-$375 for just the gear set.
He did quote this to me for a 55 1st and not sure if yours will be different or not.

Those gears are for the 1/2 ton rear and will not fit the 3/4 or 1 ton rears. If you have a 3/4 or 1 ton, the tallest gears you can get are 4.10.

Ray

[70C10Toejam]

Originally Posted by T Hilde

I got a better drivers door I'll trade you for. I just need it for the top when I do a chop on the next truck.

PM sent.

[Dieselwrencher]

Nice score Chad!

[70C10Toejam]

Started cleaning out the cab today. Nuthin' like the smell of old gas and mouse piss.

Did find a brown bottle with a rubber stopper in the pass. side cab corner. 2/3-3/4 full, shine a light through it and it looks red. Didn't notice any odor, but I really didn't try too hard.

The floor is pretty shot, but the firewall is good and toe panels are better than I expected. What is really strange to me is the battery tray is very strong, and the cover for it is decent.

[70C10Toejam]

You covered what i was getting at. With the bigger tires, you are gearing it back up. As bad as the 5.13 sounds, its not the same as if it had a 245/75/15 wheel and tire. I do think I would rather have something in the mid 3.XX range and more normal sized tires. So many things to think about and plan ahead on....

[NORMSCOLORADO]

really nice truck man! wish my 9' stepper bed sides were that nice! lol idk bout these years but i know a gm 14 bolt out of a mid 80s c 20 fits in my 67 c 30 9' stepper...... also mine has 4:10s now and its alot better but its still low geared......

[70C10Toejam]

Originally Posted by NORMSCOLORADO

really nice truck man! wish my 9' stepper bed sides were that nice! lol idk bout these years but i know a gm 14 bolt out of a mid 80s c 20 fits in my 67 c 30 9' stepper...... also mine has 4:10s now and its alot better but its still low geared......

thanks!!

It is funny, but the floor and other cab points below are the only really bad parts. The running boards and battery tray are just solid. Battery cover looks salvageable too.

[Dan Bowles]

As it sits, you'll do 49 mph with your teeth shaking out of your head, down hill, with a tail wind. My first AD was a 3800 with an aftermarket dump bed on it. Great truck, in the Michigan Upper Penninsula now.

I'd look at a 4.10 all day long. Easy to find and swap in for the open rears of the 3/4 and 1 tons.

For the 55 S1 mentioned earlier, look for a 60's truck rear, maybe even up into the 70s with 4x4 to keep the 6 lugs. Lots of money to spend on gears when $100 will buy you an entire axle. I've heard of guys looking into the Japanese truck rears with 6 lugs lately but never seen one used.

[70C10Toejam]

Originally Posted by Dan Bowles

As it sits, you'll do 49 mph with your teeth shaking out of your head, down hill, with a tail wind. My first AD was a 3800 with an aftermarket dump bed on it. Great truck, in the Michigan Upper Penninsula now.

I'd look at a 4.10 all day long. Easy to find and swap in for the open rears of the 3/4 and 1 tons.

For the 55 S1 mentioned earlier, look for a 60's truck rear, maybe even up into the 70s with 4x4 to keep the 6 lugs. Lots of money to spend on gears when $100 will buy you an entire axle. I've heard of guys looking into the Japanese truck rears with 6 lugs lately but never seen one used.

Change the 49 to 65mph and that sounds a lot like the old LeCar my stepdad used to have. In high school I drove across town
with 8 friends in it. 2 in passengers seat, three on the back seat and one in each of those laps. Took a block and a half to get out of

1st. Somehow I never got stopped.

The only real reason I would keep the 8 lug is to drive it without having to change the front. Buy some cheep non split rims and tires. Just a chance behind the wheel before any changes to the suspension. Would have no prob. with changing to 5 or 6 lug. Course, the driving part depends on if the engine will even rotate. Sprayed PB Blaster in the cylinders, haven't even tried to turn it yet. Then again, there is no crank bolt, so how the ---- do I turn it by hand? If that 6 don't work, then its out with it and start on the front end.

If going down that road, prob. put in a '73-'87 IFS and rear converted to trailing arms. Using backspacing to offset the wider track.

But until the floor is fixed, all of this is sorta moot.

[raycow]

Originally Posted by 70C10Toejam

Sprayed PB Blaster in the cylinders, haven't even tried to turn it yet. Then again, there is no crank bolt, so how the ---- do I turn it by hand? If that 6 don't work, then its out with it and start on the front end.

Take off the bellhousing bottom cover and see if you can turn the flywheel. This will tell you if the engine is seized.

Ray

[enick72]

There is no bolt inthe balencer but there should be a square hole to put in a breaker bar, if you can get to it. I was lucky enough to pull tension on the belt with my right hand while pushing down on the fan with my left and got mine to turn over a little.