Have you guys seen this roller pait job?

[1LoC10]

not sure if this guy is on here, but it looks like it came out nice
http://rolledon.forummotion.com/proj...y-c10-t298.htm

[markeb01]

I had not seen that particular thread before, but did take a close look at a Dodge Charger painted by this method several years ago. It can be seen in the 9th post of the following thread, although I think I originally saw the results on a post initiated by the owner, specifically about roller painting a car:

http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/...0&fpart=1&vc=1

Obviously good results can be obtained, but for an old busted guy like me it just requires too much sanding and physical effort. I seriously considered painting my truck that way to eliminate the overspray mess, but since I’m already set up for spraying, convenience prevailed.

I have however used roll on primer several times, which works perfectly. Very nice for doing small spots or entire panels where the masking is more work than the paint application.

[jonzcustomshop]

interesting, that.
gonna check out that forum, and I like markeb's suggestion on the primer..

[scotts62]

Thats pretty cool, sure made a big difference on the truck shown. They sure didnt want to take a close up pic though

[lakeroadster]

There are plenty of close-ups on this thread:http://rolledon.forummotion.com/proj...a-t420-150.htm

Truth is once enough coats are applied and the paint is sanded and buffed it looks good enough for a driver vehicle.

These roll on paint jobs get a lot negative comments from the spray paint fanatics. But it has been proven time and again that roll on paint has its place and can provide excellent results for a fraction of the cost of a spray paint job.

This photo is from the above thread, a guy painting a '76 Mustang "Black".

[lax54650]

These roll on paint jobs get a lot negative comments from the spray paint fanatics. But it has been proven time and again that roll on paint has its place and can provide excellent results for a fraction of the cost of a spray paint job.

the negativity comes from the KNOWLEDGE that a properly applied activated automotive paint will last much longer. but if you are fixing holes by filling with mud use a roller neither will last.

[lakeroadster]

Originally Posted by lax54650

the negativity comes from the KNOWLEDGE that a properly applied activated automotive paint will last much longer. but if you are fixing holes by filling with mud use a roller neither will last.

Yes, knowledge is a wonderful thing. I have yet to read a post where anyone stated that automotive paint isn't better. But there are all kinds of needs, and all kinds of price ranges.

Everybody can't afford the welding equipmnet to fix holes and the equipment and the products it takes to properly apply activated automotive paint.

I, as well as many others here, applaud the ingenuity it takes to find alternatives to the established "rules" on how to build a truck on a budget.

[markeb01]

I did a lot of study on the subject of hardened vs air dry paints before I painted my truck 10 years ago, and again last year. I'm the first to agree there is no comparison between lacquer or unhardened synthetic enamel and the superiority of hardened urethane (or even hardened enamel). When I painted it the first time, breathing gear cost about $2500 which was completely out of the question on my budget, so I painted it in lacquer because it was relatively cheap, easy to use, and provided excellent results. A few months later the Hobbyair system came on the market for a few hundred dollars and I lamented I didn’t have the option of waiting until I could have used better paint.

By the time I repainted it, there were numerous chips and dings from living on a crushed rock road for nine years. By comparison however, all the newer cars with more expensive paint jobs using the same road were in similar condition with numerous nicks and dings.

The discussions between the credibility of a home paint job and a pro shop doing the work are endless. One comment that leapt off the page at me though was a comment to the effect that “no unhardened paint can be expected to last, while a good catalyzed paint will hold up for 10 years”. Again, no question superior paint provides a superior and longer lasting finish, but I’ve seen cars that were 50 years old wearing original enamel and lacquer that still looked remarkable. It wasn’t because the paint was good, it was because they were well maintained and protected.

My current paint job is cheap John Deere Blitz Black enamel. Including the paint and all materials I spent around $200 on the job. I’m sure my tractor paint would look pathetic in a salt spray test compared to urethane, but it will look nice longer than I’ll care. If life was fair, I would have preferred a $10,000 shiny black paint urethane job, but then I’d be afraid to drive it. After nearly 20 years of ownership, my $200 job has provided more fun and compliments than ever before, because it looks cool regardless of money, and I’m no longer concerned about taking it anywhere.

For a person with no facilities, tools and little money, I still think an owner can find pride in their efforts regardless of paint type or how it’s applied. It won’t hold up as well, but most people don’t keep the same car or truck more than a few years anyway, and at least they can be enjoying something that looks nice and is affordable.

[Rich 5150 69]

PPG is or was working on a roller paint for automotive, I `m sure they know that there are budget minded people that don`t have the facilities to do a full blown paint job, I myself would be interested in it as well, at the present time I have no idea where PPG is on this!

[Bugeyev8]

Originally Posted by Rich 5150 69

PPG is or was working on a roller paint for automotive, I `m sure they know that there are budget minded people that don`t have the facilities to do a full blown paint job, I myself would be interested in it as well, at the present time I have no idea where PPG is on this!

I have rolled PPG epoxy primer before with great results, I used a foam roller and it worked perfect, done it a few times when I did not want to wash the spray gun

[94tx]

Not to hijack the thread here, but roll on primers???!? I have been avoiding any body work because I don't have the money or equipment to do a spray on primer/paint, (being a college student sucks). Can anyone please tell me more?! I would love to strip my truck and roll on a nice primer and not have to worry about rust coming through.

[Bugeyev8]

Originally Posted by 94tx

Not to hijack the thread here, but roll on primers???!? I have been avoiding any body work because I don't have the money or equipment to do a spray on primer/paint, (being a college student sucks). Can anyone please tell me more?! I would love to strip my truck and roll on a nice primer and not have to worry about rust coming through.

Yeah you can roll on almost any epoxy primer and block it out, I get the chepo foam rollers and pans from the dollar store, since you are going to sand it and block it it does not really matter how you apply it, my friend who ran a body shop ( served on the board that started I car cert) has been doing it for years

as far as rust proofing....you need a primer sealer to keep rust away for any period of time

[jonzcustomshop]

I assume that roll on paint would be much better for the enviroment as well...

good commnts both ways though...

what about a roll job that is sanded to perfection, and then a pro applied clear sprayed over it?

[Rich 5150 69]

Thats how cars were first painted back in the day, brushed and then blocked months later...

[jonzcustomshop]

yeah I was suprised when I saw some photos in my book "the american auto factory" where they were brush painting a 20's chevrolet-like a house-, guess I had never given much thought to the fact that spraying hadn't been invented/perfected yet.

another odd note from back in the day, model A ford fenders were dipped in a vat of paint, so it is nearly impossible -short of doing that- for a restorer to achieve the look of a stock model A...

I wish 60-66's had been dipped in a vat of paint from the factory!
they would'nt be nearly as rusty!

[scotts62]

Wow im impressed with it, thats awesome. Every one i have seen has not been the "proper" roll on paint i guess and looks ok from a distance but not so good close up. I like that stuff.

[Bugeyev8]

Originally Posted by jonzcustomshop

yeah I was suprised when I saw some photos in my book "the american auto factory" where they were brush painting a 20's chevrolet-like a house-, guess I had never given much thought to the fact that spraying hadn't been invented/perfected yet.

another odd note from back in the day, model A ford fenders were dipped in a vat of paint, so it is nearly impossible -short of doing that- for a restorer to achieve the look of a stock model A...

I wish 60-66's had been dipped in a vat of paint from the factory!
they would'nt be nearly as rusty!

They used lacquer and not enamel...very forgiving and easy to polish up, my friend painted his BMW 2002 Tii with lacquer and a good quality artists brush and it looked better than new lasted for years and years till he sold it 8 years later it still looked as good as the day he did it, we cant even get real lacquer anymore

[Bugeyev8]

I cant deny that the truck and the mustang look good looks good but why use such ****ty paint.. you could roll on a quality paint that would actually hold up, rustoleum is not a very hard or tough paint and the UVs will attack it after time, then you need to remove 8 layers of fish oil based paint, if you used a quality enamel...you could still roll it and polish it out, the real question is why would you want to spend all that time sanding and polishing when yyou could just spray it, if you put $$ on your time...its just not worth it if you ask me

[lakeroadster]

Originally Posted by Bugeyev8

I cant deny that the truck and the mustang look good but why use such ****ty paint.....

The answer is the cost of the paint. Rustoleum Professional is $29.97 a gallon. Sherwin Williams also has a product called Sher-Kem that is implement paint, available in 70 off the shelf colors and unlimited tinted colors, and it is more durable than Rustoleum. It is about $37 a gallon.

And worth noting is that a gallon is more than enough to paint an entire vehicle using the roller method.

Originally Posted by Bugeyev8

Why would you want to spend all that time sanding and polishing when you could just spray it, if you put $$ on your time...its just not worth it if you ask me

Most of the people doing the roll on paint either don't have:

~the money to buy the more expensive automotive paint,
~the money to buy the equipment to spray the expensive paint,
~an area to deal with the overspray that comes with spraying the expensive paint.

Therefore if you have the time, but not much money, this is a way to get a good enough paint job.

[ChiefRocka]

I think its cool .... Now I know how my truck and Dune-buggy will be painted !!

Gonna go check out Wal-mart today !!!

[Bugeyev8]

Originally Posted by ChiefRocka

I think its cool .... Now I know how my truck and Dune-buggy will be painted !!

Gonna go check out Wal-mart today !!!

you may want to do some research before you buy from Wal Mart, I heard there is a difference between theRustoleum paint in Ca and other places, I also heard that there is something different with the paint between the 1qt and gallon sizes

[markeb01]

Originally Posted by jonzcustomshop

yeah I was suprised when I saw some photos in my book "the american auto factory" where they were brush painting a 20's chevrolet-like a house-, guess I had never given much thought to the fact that spraying hadn't been invented/perfected yet.

I’ve seen film clips showing a Model T being painted on the assembly line, and it appeared they used a pressurized paint hose connected to some sort of spray valve that in turn was connected to what looked like a leather mop, which continuously dribbled paint. The worker just started at the top of the body dragging the mop all around the perimeter until the entire body was covered. What a mess, all the excess ran off on, and was presumably recycled, but who knows – it may have just run down the drain. I’m sure the results looked more like dipping than spraying.

Originally Posted by 94tx

Not to hijack the thread here, but roll on primers???!? I have been avoiding any body work because I don't have the money or equipment to do a spray on primer/paint, (being a college student sucks). Can anyone please tell me more?! I would love to strip my truck and roll on a nice primer and not have to worry about rust coming through.

I first tried rolling on primer after I read about it on a painting site, and saw it being used on one of the truck tv shows. My first attempt was using regular PPG DP48LF (white) regular (non-roller) spray primer. I didn't see any reason it wouldn't work, and did the roof of my wife’s truck with the little foam rollers and a couple of foam brushes, and it turned out great. It has a slight eggshell finish, but was intended to be sanded down anyway. This is epoxy primer, not fill primer. It can be exposed to the elements for years without rust forming. I had DPLF90 (black) on my bare steel tailgate for 7-8 years and no rust ever started. We subsequently gave the truck to my son, and it's been sitting outside neglected for 3 years and the roof still looks like the day I put it on. The only downside was it really stinks while drying and I have an attached garage.



When I repainted my truck last year, I needed high fill catalyzed primer, so I bought the U-Pol kit shown at the following link:

http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/m...egory_Code=PSH

Since it’s 2 part with isocynates and I don’t have full breathing gear, I wanted something that didn’t need to be sprayed. It’s the most amazing primer I’ve ever used. Dries very fast, no shrinkage, and easy to sand.

When I first painted my truck the fenders looked perfect, much nicer than they appear in this rather tired photo:



After nine years driving up and down a road with rocks sharp enough to pop steel belted tires, the tops of the rear fenders were covered with star chips, and the front of the hood was equally beat up. At the time I wasn’t up to stripping to bare metal again, so I just feather edge all the chips and body worked them flat. This left pock marked fenders with depressions all over the surface. So I sanded everything down as best I could and applied several coats of Upol in batches (block sanding between coats) starting with a roller, and working down to a small foam brush. Interestingly, when I went to mix it I could find no mixing instructions for the roller application. Turns out it's just a different brand of high quality primer that was designed to be sprayed on. So I just used the normal mixing instructions and it rolled on easily.



After blocking everything out for the last time, they looked just like new again once the paint went on.



The 3rd photo shows I applied this over some pretty big areas, and all of it was either by roller or paint brush. For any future small repairs, brush or roller is the only way I’ll ever do primer application again. It’s really fast with great results and very little clean up.

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by markeb01

I’ve seen film clips showing a Model T being painted on the assembly line, and it appeared they used a pressurized paint hose connected to some sort of spray valve that in turn was connected to what looked like a leather mop, which continuously dribbled paint. The worker just started at the top of the body dragging the mop all around the perimeter until the entire body was covered. What a mess, all the excess ran off on, and was presumably recycled, but who knows – it may have just run down the drain. I’m sure the results looked more like dipping than spraying.



I first tried rolling on primer after I read about it on a painting site, and saw it being used on one of the truck tv shows. My first attempt was using regular PPG DP48LF (white) regular (non-roller) spray primer. I didn't see any reason it wouldn't work, and did the roof of my wife’s truck with the little foam rollers and a couple of foam brushes, and it turned out great. It has a slight eggshell finish, but was intended to be sanded down anyway. This is epoxy primer, not fill primer. It can be exposed to the elements for years without rust forming. I had DPLF90 (black) on my bare steel tailgate for 7-8 years and no rust ever started. We subsequently gave the truck to my son, and it's been sitting outside neglected for 3 years and the roof still looks like the day I put it on. The only downside was it really stinks while drying and I have an attached garage.



When I repainted my truck last year, I needed high fill catalyzed primer, so I bought the U-Pol kit shown at the following link:

http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/m...egory_Code=PSH

Since it’s 2 part with isocynates and I don’t have full breathing gear, I wanted something that didn’t need to be sprayed. It’s the most amazing primer I’ve ever used. Dries very fast, no shrinkage, and easy to sand.

When I first painted my truck the fenders looked perfect, much nicer than they appear in this rather tired photo:



After nine years driving up and down a road with rocks sharp enough to pop steel belted tires, the tops of the rear fenders were covered with star chips, and the front of the hood was equally beat up. At the time I wasn’t up to stripping to bare metal again, so I just feather edge all the chips and body worked them flat. This left pock marked fenders with depressions all over the surface. So I sanded everything down as best I could and applied several coats of Upol in batches (block sanding between coats) starting with a roller, and working down to a small foam brush. Interestingly, when I went to mix it I could find no mixing instructions for the roller application. Turns out it's just a different brand of high quality primer that was designed to be sprayed on. So I just used the normal mixing instructions and it rolled on easily.



After blocking everything out for the last time, they looked just like new again once the paint went on.



The 3rd photo shows I applied this over some pretty big areas, and all of it was either by roller or paint brush. For any future small repairs, brush or roller is the only way I’ll ever do primer application again. It’s really fast with great results and very little clean up.

Old thread...

Awesome Post!

I have been having my own psychological battle with this.

I want my truck protected but still want to be able to use it as a truck.

I mixed up Rustoleum because it was easily available.
Here's the color I concocted:



I just went right over the old paint that I will later strip as I repair each panel and then coat with epoxy.
Now I'm thinking I should use something other than Rustoleum as my final coat.
I do want blue.

[astrochimp]

I used Valspar from tractor supply. Gal of paint, hardener and a gol of mineral spirts was ~ $50. I used a cheap $5 air brush and a $30 paint gun (it used less air so my comp would work)

Photos-
http://s185.photobucket.com/albums/x...Samurai/truck/

It has been on almost a year, always outside. Truck needs some old "body work" redone, but that will wait till mechanical is done.

I painted my truck in my yard for around $100.

[1LoC10]

thats crazy, how long did it take to paint with an air brush? came out cool though