1985 Custom Deluxe 4x4 -- I want it lifted...

[freddiesgirl]

Hey yall...I want to lift my truck a little bit, maybe 3 inches, but I don't know how to go about doing it. Do lift kits come with shocks in them? (Because I already need new shocks all the way around)

It already has a good stance to it, but I want it to look meaner. Let me know if you have any suggestions, please. I don't want it to be too much or too big. I wouldn't mind getting bigger tires but I don't want huge ones, and if I lift it, I don't want the tires to look too small.

I guess what I'm asking is, if I lift it 3 inches, what else would I need to do to it? Thanks,

Hannah

[Prerunner1982]

Not sure what size tires you have now, but 33"s would fit with no problem and 35"s may fit with some minor cutting, depending on how much you flex it. With a lift you will need new shocks, extended brake lines, perhaps a drop pitman arm, an alignment... with only 3" you shouldn't need new driveshaft, and maybe able to get away with moving the brake lines around to get a bit more length out of them.

Good looking truck and welcome to the forum!

[Anadrol]

Suspension lifts sometimes come with shocks. Body lifts do not. Check out Ebay, and most of the kits should have a picture of everything included.

My suggestion would be to lift it 6 inches in order to get 4 inches of true increase in ride height. If you buy a 3 inch suspension lift, as soon as you lower the jacks, your truck is going to compress everything down to about 1.5" of true lift.

Body lifts are different, and I would advise against them. You'll have to do a lot of cutting/welding/lengthening of parts to accommodate a body lift.

[special-K]

Originally Posted by Anadrol

My suggestion would be to lift it 6 inches in order to get 4 inches of true increase in ride height. If you buy a 3 inch suspension lift, as soon as you lower the jacks, your truck is going to compress everything down to about 1.5" of true lift.

Huh?I've never experienced that one.Suspension lifts are what they say they are.The actual lift can vary a tad,sometimes more than claimed.

I believe your truck is stock height.11.50/32s are the biggest tire that clear with stock suspension.

[Prerunner1982]

Originally Posted by special-K

Huh?I've never experienced that one.Suspension lifts are what they say they are.They actual lift can vary a tad,sometimes more than claimed.They've always been at least what they are listed to lift.

I agree... unless they are talking about lift shackles.. which themselves only supply an additional lift of 1/2 their additional length.

[68Timber]

Something like this with some 33x12.50-15's would look good on it and not break the bank.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/3-73-...Q5fAccessories

[Davidmichael]

I would recommend a 4 inch lift with 33's. That's not too big at all. You should get all this in the kit: Springs front and rear(or blocks in the rear but I recommend new springs), bushings, steering arm, some brackets to relocate your brake lines (or extensions), and all the hardware you need. If you want shocks you can order a kit with shocks also. Most kits come standard with the options I listed. some come with a bit less.

[Long79]

If you get a quality 3" lift it will lift you 3" above factory ride height, plus you get the added height of the new tire. you can relocate brake lines to make them work up to bout 5" of lift. above 2" a steering arm or pitman arm will be needed to align your steering geometry. drive shafts will be fine till 6" of lift or more. With the bigger tires you will want to upgrade your steering shock also, just to help with control. Also if your rocking a big block, winch or a diesel go with super lift's heavy duty springs, there the only one's out there with spring's designed for that extra weight in mind, that I know of. Personally I would go with super lift or skyjacker, great ride with both and won't break the bank. Add-a-leaf in the rear will beat you to death, go with blocks/shackle if you wanna cheap out. Also keep in mind that your stock springs have lost some strength over the years and have dropped, so it would be a good idea to go ahead and replace your rear springs also to make sure you get the height you want. Shock wise some kits have them others don't just have to read to find out. I always get my lift stuff through rockymountainsusp.com, great website, great people to work with. I would go with 3" w, 33x12.5's, but if you flex out it will rub, 4" if you like rocks. Don't get pro-comp I have broken a couple of sets of there springs.

[freddiesgirl]

Thanks yall. I got a mechanic that works for my dad, and he helps me with the truck, but he doesn't really think too cheap. I'm still in college so I cant blow all of my money on it, even though I'd like to!! lol.

Can yall tell by looking at it if it is factory height? It doesn't look like it to me, but I wouldnt really know

[87 V20 Scottsdale]

It's hard to say by the pics, but it looks like it's factory to me. What size are those tires?

[freddiesgirl]

they are 32x11.5's

[Davidmichael]

That looks stock to me.

[LONGHAIR]

The simplest way to tell if it is lifted is to look at the front springs. If they are stock (un-lifted) the arch will be "upside down".

[Prerunner1982]

Hannah... still think it is a good looking truck.

[freddiesgirl]

Originally Posted by Prerunner1982

Hannah... still think it is a good looking truck.

haha thanks man.

[benoit454]

ok I just have to clear up a few things that I know from past experiences with an 86 k10 we had stock 4x4 and lifted 4 inches with a rough country kit.

1. we cleared 33 12.50's on stock rallys no problems, not rubbing no trimming. Now if your springs are sagging then 33's might hit.

2. we never bought a 4 inch lift to get 2 inches, we got 4 inches if not more from the 4 inch kit, all around even after hauling, driving and wheeling it was still 4 inches.

3. you don't need extended lines for a 3 or 4 inch, we didn't, we didn't even need to reloaction brackets. They come in the kit. No need to buy them they should be in the kit, if not or unsure ask.

No driveshaft work needed, 4 inch came with a raised steering arm, the hardest part of installing the lift, it's a PITA. We had 33's on it then too, could have cleared 35's easy if not more. it came with rear blocks, and new shocks all around. We ordered a new steering stabilizer, ours was leaking and we needed the sway bar drop brackets, they say they are only for 6 inch kits and bigger, but ours would not bolt up without them, and had a hard time trying to get it to work with the brackets.

Now I'm sure like anything else after the years they'll settle down to a 2 inch if they were 4 inch, but I'd think it'd take years to do so or overloading. As stiff as the rough country front springs are, I doubt they'd ever sag.

We didn't need an alignment, it's solid front axle, why would you need it? Unless we are talking tie rod adjustment or something, now that maybe, but as far as caster/camber, I wouldn't think so, ours never squealed after the lift or wore tires out. I'm sure it would not hurt though.

I'm sure extended brake lines or the brackets won't hurt either, just to be safe.

Also may want to check you rlocal lift laws, round here you can go a 3 inch body lift, some places won't let you, or have limits, others have bumper height or lift height limits, here bottom of bumper or bottom of frame whichever is lowest has to be under 31 inches, anymore won't pass. A 4 inch lift and 33's pushed it on our 86 in the back, front had some room to go higher, but back did not.

[68Timber]

If you go with 4" of lift 35" tires will look more at home than 33's, especially on a lwb truck.

[shovelbill]

i'll ask...how do you plan on using the truck? motor/trans/axles/gears? budget for lift and tires? i as this because if you don't do it right from the beginning you may hate the truck and spend a lot more later to get it correct for YOU. i spent a lot of money getting it right for me! it's kinda like life in general.

i had a few versions of 2.5ish" and 35's with ralleys. nice little 305/208/built 44/12 bolt 4.56.

the rims in this pic were my friend's 10" wide rims to see what was needed to run them. i like 8" rims for 35's better because there's less trimming i found. after i blew the 10 bolts(rear went first as i had a heavy foot) i put on my 44/12 combo that held. think of the future too....and what you may need to rebuild. right now i'm gonna build a 3
" ORD/33" deal, less likley to bust stuff and i'm not a super duper crawler or mudder guy. great thread here........Bill

[freddiesgirl]

Originally Posted by shovelbill

i'll ask...how do you plan on using the truck? motor/trans/axles/gears? budget for lift and tires?

i had a few versions of 2.5ish" and 35's with ralleys. nice little 305/208/built 44/12 bolt 4.56.

the rims in this pic were my friend's 10" wide rims to see what was needed to run them. i like 8" rims for 35's better because there's less trimming i found. after i blew the 10 bolts i put on my 44/12 combo that held. think of the future too....and what you may need to rebuild. right now i'm gonna build a 3
" ORD/33" deal, less likley to bust stuff and i'm not a super duper crawler or mudder guy.

well ill be driving it when im home on the weekends but just around town not going too far on it. its got a 350 in it. i dont know about the transmission or axles but the gears are 3:42.....i mean ill prolly play in the mud and go hunting in it and i will definitely hook up at one point or another...knowing me

[shovelbill]

i'd probably go with some soft rate springs, good shocks and stabilizer, 2" dropped arm and some decent mud tires. i've always liked BFGs.

that kit Bruiser linked is fine for what your gonna do. those 3.42's and fat
33s are gonna kill your gas though. axle rap shouldn't be a big issue, i would think with that combo. someone will correct me or add to my train of thought i hope. what rims are those.....10" or 8" with little backspace? i can't tell.

[freddiesgirl]

Originally Posted by shovelbill

i'd probably go with some soft rate springs, good shocks and stabilizer, 2" dropped arm and some decent mud tires. i've always liked BFGs.

that kit Bruiser linked is fine for what your gonna do. those 3.42's and fat
33s are gonna kill your gas though. axle rap shouldn't be a big issue, i would think with that combo. someone will correct me or add to my train of thought i hope.

why is that gonna kill my gas? i dont really know much about it yet im just getting into it. somebody told me that 3:42's are about the best for my truck but i dont remember why

[joe231]

http://www.rockymountainsusp.com/GM73_87.htm

so, who is freddy?

[freddiesgirl]

Originally Posted by joe231

http://www.rockymountainsusp.com/GM73_87.htm

so, who is freddy?

lol Freddie is the original owner of the truck....our town's old police chief. i figured i'd do him the favor of naming the truck after him.. he took good care of it lol.

[shovelbill]

that's a nice truck.....build it right. way back when i started i got this horrible Rancho setup that rode like a stage coach. your mpg will suffer from having to step into it more to get it moving because 33's will raise your gear ratio. you'll sure cruise at a low rpm on the highway too and accelleration will stink .
it looks good as it is.........i could do without the "freddy" though


what profile pic?....i was thinking you were female after that pic.

[freddiesgirl]

Originally Posted by shovelbill

that's a nice truck.....build it right. way back when i started i got this horrible Rancho setup that rode like a stage coach. your mpg will suffer from having to step into it more to get it moving because 33's will raise your gear ratio. you'll sure cruise at a low rpm on the highway too and accelleration will stink .
it looks good as it is.........i could do without the "freddy" though


what profile pic?....i was thinking you were female after that pic.

i dunno my picture only shows up in my profile i guess its too big. but thanks yeah i'm trying to build it right...its taking so long to get it right. whoever put the headers on a while ago sawed off the bolt that hooked the power steering block to anything. my dad and i just welded it back to the engine cause it was shaking so bad. and yeah it does rumble on the highway. i put original flowmasters on it and got new pipes from the headers all the way back. the ones in that pic are the old ones. how do bigger tires raise the gear ratio?