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Old 11-07-2010, 08:52 AM   #1
kgmunro
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Bodywork Question

I am pulling the cab off my 57 gmc for bodywork. But if I am setting door gaps and welding in panels (rockers,steps) does the truck cab need to be on the frame or can it just be blocked up till it's level??
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Old 11-07-2010, 10:17 AM   #2
Knothead
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Re: Bodywork Question

I would do all your alignments with the cab on the frame. I also recommend using mounting pads that will be used when finished.I did mine of the frame and one door doesn't fit as well on the frame.
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Old 11-07-2010, 10:40 AM   #3
contracostastepside
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Re: Bodywork Question

Definitely on the frame. I have a 57 gmc as well. Doesn't seem to be very well represented here. I just got mine.
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Old 11-08-2010, 01:53 PM   #4
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Re: Bodywork Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by Knothead View Post
I would do all your alignments with the cab on the frame. I also recommend using mounting pads that will be used when finished.I did mine of the frame and one door doesn't fit as well on the frame.
shim your cab mounts.
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Old 11-07-2010, 03:00 PM   #5
Mr GMC
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Re: Bodywork Question

I did a cab off the frame. The owner of the cab dropped it off to me bolted down to a rolling cart that was made to fit it. I replaced the inner and outer cab corners steps, hinge pockets and worked the doors. I only did the metal replacement and door alignment. It left for body and paint elseware and when the truck was finished the doors still fit the cab. Here is the truck I helped work on.


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Old 11-08-2010, 04:28 AM   #6
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Re: Bodywork Question

Hi, since your on this subject... quick question, Do you start at the hinge pocket and work back if you have most of the lower cab to replace?
Thanks.
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Old 11-08-2010, 10:58 AM   #7
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Re: Bodywork Question

I start at the step and work forward. Replace the step, then the hinge panel then the inner and outer pockets, then the corners if needed. It’s important to measure prior to cutting out pieces. So you know how they line up before welding them in.

The reason I start at the step is there is a cross beam under the floor that attaches to the rear lower pillar panel. This is a very solid area and its fixed and doesn't move during the replacement process, if you work from that point forward everything is measured from there rather than a point that may or may not line up in the front at the pillar pockets and hinge panel that can shift when cut out.

Everyone has their own way of doing this and as long as it works out it’s not the wrong way just different.

Last edited by dwcsr; 11-08-2010 at 11:01 AM.
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Old 11-08-2010, 12:41 PM   #8
OrrieG
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Re: Bodywork Question

If you are replacing the step, hinge pocket and corners I would throw is some temporary bracing to keep the cab in alignment. Dave is right his sequence is the same one used during assembly at the factory, the step goes in first and all the other pieces spot weld over it.

Mr. GMC, what size wheel are you running and what model of caps and trim rings. I want to use my 74 16" steel wheels with caps and rings like yours but am having trouble finding them. Thanks
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Old 11-08-2010, 03:20 PM   #9
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Re: Bodywork Question

Thanks, for the info guys, I'll plan it that way. I have floorboards patch panels from the seat riser to partially up the toe board too.
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Old 11-08-2010, 05:14 PM   #10
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Re: Bodywork Question

Post some pics everyone likes to the the progress
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Old 11-08-2010, 06:03 PM   #11
dwcsr
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Re: Bodywork Question

I used an old frame and chopped the ends off and then welded some wheels on it. Makes for an easy to move and work around rig. That way its on the original mounts and you can bolt it down.
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Old 11-08-2010, 09:46 PM   #12
seeso
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Re: Bodywork Question

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Originally Posted by dwcsr View Post
I used an old frame and chopped the ends off and then welded some wheels on it. Makes for an easy to move and work around rig. That way its on the original mounts and you can bolt it down.
That is a Slick set up right there.
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