1960 crossmember swap - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

moovinmetal · 11-10-2010, 12:14 AM

Can someone post the link on the 1960 crossmember swap to a 1973-87 also 350 v-8 mount pics. Thanks Jack

markeb01 · 11-10-2010, 12:27 AM

Welcome to the forum. Here you go:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=366850

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=369663

moovinmetal · 11-10-2010, 01:04 AM

Thanks, I just sat the frame on the donor member tonight I did not mark the old xmember position when removing. Oops. Hope this will line up OK. Just starting to get into the heart of this project. I will be dropping a 350/350th in also. will the donor 350 engine mounts work from the 1978? I'm trying to use all I can from the 78 donor truck on this low budget (hobby) build.

**Captainfab** · 11-10-2010, 01:09 AM

You can use the '78 motor mounts and the frame brackets. However you will need to add a spacer to the top of the frame where the top of the motor mount bracket will attach to the frame. The older frames are shorter in height than the '73-'87 C10 frames. If you get the frame brackets from a '73-'87 C20, they will be a little closer to the frame, than the C10 brackets.

Quote:

Originally Posted by moovinmetal

Thanks, I just sat the frame on the donor member tonight I did not mark the old xmember position when removing. Oops. Hope this will line up OK. Just starting to get into the heart of this project. I will be dropping a 350/350th in also. will the donor 350 engine mounts work from the 1978? I'm trying to use all I can from the 78 donor truck on this low budget (hobby) build.

moovinmetal · 11-10-2010, 10:18 PM

Do you use the original holes in the crossmember and mount? Also which holes in the xmember to frame do I use to pin for marking and aligning? Thanks

**Captainfab** · 11-11-2010, 12:48 AM

Yes I would use the original location on the crossmember for the motor mount brackets. As for locating the suspension crossmemberon the frame, I can't help you there since I've never done one on a '60-'62 frame. Did you not find anything about that in the links that markeb01 posted? One thing you could do to get close is measure your wheel base. The long beds are 127" and the short beds are 115". Try that and see if any holes line up. I know that on the crossmember conversion on the '60-'62 there are only a couple holes that line up. Most of them will need to be drilled.

Quote:

Originally Posted by moovinmetal

Do you use the original holes in the crossmember and mount? Also which holes in the xmember to frame do I use to pin for marking and aligning? Thanks

raycow · 11-11-2010, 05:26 AM

Before you remove your old crossmember, measure the actual WB on both sides (just to make sure nothing is bent). If you like the way your front wheels are centered in the fender opening, use the same WB dimension when installing the new crossmember. If you don't like the way the wheels look, make any necessary adjustments to the WB before you start drilling holes.

Ray

franky69c10 · 11-10-2010, 11:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Captainfab

You can use the '78 motor mounts and the frame brackets. However you will need to add a spacer to the top of the frame where the top of the motor mount bracket will attach to the frame. The older frames are shorter in height than the '73-'87 C10 frames. If you get the frame brackets from a '73-'87 C20, they will be a little closer to the frame, than the C10 brackets.

Good info

Posted via Mobile Device

62 Bowtie · 11-11-2010, 12:42 AM

anyone ever just cut the frame and weld the new one in like the camero clip swap?

markeb01 · 11-11-2010, 06:05 PM

In looking back at the pictures, it appears the only hole on the side of the frame that “almost” lines up is the upper rear hole in the frame. In the before and after pictures it appears I slotted it straight up. The holes that are circled in the 2nd photo are the new positions aligned with the 75 crossmember.

I believe there was one other hole (on each side) on the bottom of the frame that lined up with the new crossmember, however I didn’t take any photos of that area and it’s been too many years to remember for sure. I measured everything on mine before disassembly, marking the floor and the fender for centerline. Without having that information, I’d line up on the upper rear hole, then follow the suggestions above and measure the wheelbase.

And here’s a recent thread discussing relocation of the crossmember forward to center the tires in the wheelwells:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=424381

11-10-2010, 12:14 AM	#1
moovinmetal Registered User Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Montgomery City Mo Posts: 13	1960 crossmember swap Can someone post the link on the 1960 crossmember swap to a 1973-87 also 350 v-8 mount pics. Thanks Jack

11-10-2010, 12:27 AM	#2
markeb01 Senior Enthusiast Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Spokane Valley, WA Posts: 8,356	Re: 1960 crossmember swap Welcome to the forum. Here you go: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=366850 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=369663

11-10-2010, 01:04 AM	#3
moovinmetal Registered User Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Montgomery City Mo Posts: 13	Re: 1960 crossmember swap Thanks, I just sat the frame on the donor member tonight I did not mark the old xmember position when removing. Oops. Hope this will line up OK. Just starting to get into the heart of this project. I will be dropping a 350/350th in also. will the donor 350 engine mounts work from the 1978? I'm trying to use all I can from the 78 donor truck on this low budget (hobby) build.

11-10-2010, 10:18 PM	#5
moovinmetal Registered User Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Montgomery City Mo Posts: 13	Re: 1960 crossmember swap Do you use the original holes in the crossmember and mount? Also which holes in the xmember to frame do I use to pin for marking and aligning? Thanks

11-11-2010, 05:26 AM	#7
raycow Registered User Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: San Francisco, CA USA Posts: 2,454	Re: 1960 crossmember swap Before you remove your old crossmember, measure the actual WB on both sides (just to make sure nothing is bent). If you like the way your front wheels are centered in the fender opening, use the same WB dimension when installing the new crossmember. If you don't like the way the wheels look, make any necessary adjustments to the WB before you start drilling holes. Ray __________________ Live more responsibly. Eat lower on the food chain. Eat vegetarians.

11-11-2010, 12:42 AM	#9
62 Bowtie Registered User Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Elk Grove Ca Posts: 629	Re: 1960 crossmember swap anyone ever just cut the frame and weld the new one in like the camero clip swap? Attached Images

11-11-2010, 06:05 PM	#10
markeb01 Senior Enthusiast Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Spokane Valley, WA Posts: 8,356	Re: 1960 crossmember swap In looking back at the pictures, it appears the only hole on the side of the frame that “almost” lines up is the upper rear hole in the frame. In the before and after pictures it appears I slotted it straight up. The holes that are circled in the 2nd photo are the new positions aligned with the 75 crossmember. I believe there was one other hole (on each side) on the bottom of the frame that lined up with the new crossmember, however I didn’t take any photos of that area and it’s been too many years to remember for sure. I measured everything on mine before disassembly, marking the floor and the fender for centerline. Without having that information, I’d line up on the upper rear hole, then follow the suggestions above and measure the wheelbase. And here’s a recent thread discussing relocation of the crossmember forward to center the tires in the wheelwells: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=424381



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