truck won't turn over?

[pyroimpala]

Just picked up a '62 C10, inline 6, 3 on the column.

Guy we got it from said he was driving it up until a few weeks ago when the starter just quit on him. Turn the key and the starter clicks once but won't turn the motor over.

Got it home, took the starter off and checked it at the part store and it passed.

Also was able to turn the crank pulley and could see the flywheel turning so motor isn't locked up.

Just wondering what I need to be looking for now? Bad ground or what?

Weird it would just quit on him if the starter is still good.

Thanks,
--Marcus

[Fudge]

Maybe charge the battery? Clean all the connections to and from the starter to the battery and grounds.

[markeb01]

I agree with Fudge. If it clicks, it usually means the circuit is completing (causing the solenoid to cycle which generates the clicking sound), but there isn't enough amperage getting through to crank the starter motor. This usually means the battery needs a charge or is dead, the terminals are cruddy, or the cable connection at the starter or engine block are loose.

[pyroimpala]

That was the first thing we tried on it was a new battery but it didn't change anything.

The terminals look newer and all the connections I noticed were nice and tight when I was taking the starter off.

[markeb01]

Then it may still the starter motor, even though it tested okay. What happens sometimes is a bad spot on the commutator lines up with the brushes and the starter won’t turn over. If it gets bumped, wiggled, or jarred enough by the solenoid (or by removing it from the car) to move to the next segment, it will turn over.

Here’s an article on starter testing. You may need to open the starter up and see what the brushes and commutator look like.

http://www.misterfixit.com/starttst.htm

[61_FL_Apache]

Clean all starter connections again. I had that issue and that fixed it for me.

[onequickchevy]

You should probably just change the pos and neg cables. I had an issue with mine. Everything looked clean, but inside the cable was corroded and nasty. It was all clean where you could see it, but it could not carry enough voltage inside where it counts. Sometimes it would start, most of the time it would click and everything would die as if the battery had been disconnected.

[Fudge]

Originally Posted by onequickchevy

You should probably just change the pos and neg cables. I had an issue with mine. Everything looked clean, but inside the cable was corroded and nasty. It was all clean where you could see it, but it could not carry enough voltage inside where it counts. Sometimes it would start, most of the time it would click and everything would die as if the battery had been disconnected.

I have had that happen too. Drove me nuts, everything looked good. Also have had everything "look good" but when I took off the ground it was rusted to ****. Usually its something stupid, for me its always a bad ground. I was ready to replace the whole wiring harness in my oval window VW it turned out to be a corroded ground. The car had also sat a while. Time to get out the sandpaper and wire brush, clean all connectiions even if they look good and make them tight. Good luck

[chevy_man5]

I don't know if it applies to the older trucks, but I was having a similar problem on my '99 burb. Turn the key, and all of the bells and whistles worked, but wouldn't turn over at all. Crawled under it with a BFH, and wacked the starter, turned the key and it fired right up. So I was pretty sure the solenoid was dying.

I took it off, and took it to the parts store, they tested it, and it tested fine. Took it home put it back in, then a few days later did the same thing. No start. Got out the BFH, and persuaded it to start again. Took it to a different parts store, they said the solenoid was dragging, but just barely. Didn't have much money at the time, and it was near Christmas last year, so I put it back in, and drove it for about 6 months, carrying around a BFh just in case. It started getting worse, so I replaced it at that point. No more problems.

Apparently our trucks need "persuaded" once in a while. LOL

[Fudge]

Originally Posted by chevy_man5

I don't know if it applies to the older trucks, but I was having a similar problem on my '99 burb. Turn the key, and all of the bells and whistles worked, but wouldn't turn over at all. Crawled under it with a BFH, and wacked the starter, turned the key and it fired right up. So I was pretty sure the solenoid was dying.

I took it off, and took it to the parts store, they tested it, and it tested fine. Took it home put it back in, then a few days later did the same thing. No start. Got out the BFH, and persuaded it to start again. Took it to a different parts store, they said the solenoid was dragging, but just barely. Didn't have much money at the time, and it was near Christmas last year, so I put it back in, and drove it for about 6 months, carrying around a BFh just in case. It started getting worse, so I replaced it at that point. No more problems.

Apparently our trucks need "persuaded" once in a while. LOL

I forgot about the wack a starter game. When I first got my panel I carried a BFH for this as it would happen often. Good advice Chevyman. Funny I put up with it for about 6 months too.

[jimmydean]

I just replaced the battery and cables in my 66 because the cables were not making a good connection. The battery was way small for the truck and needed to be replaced anyway, so I just got new clamps, cut and stripped fresh copper and it works like a dream, now.

If the battery is good and the starter tested good, then the connection between them isn't good enough to put the juice to the starter, hence the click and no kick over.

<edit> And a little Vaseline on the terminals will keep them from corroding, too. Poor mans dielectric grease.

[blackmopar]

sounds to me like might be related to the GM Hot Start problem or maybe a shorted battery cable etc down by the starter - heat absorption kills those solenoids and the oe wiring is weak link from the factory