Newer Mounts Towers Perches

[LostMy65]

I have honestly been searching the forums..

Here is the closest thread on the subject I found:
http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...ad.php?t=36338

It's a pretty old thread, and for 68-72 generation.



I was wondering if anyone is using the newer mounts and towers/perches from the 73-87 generation on our 63-66 trucks?

Thanks.

[Captainfab]

The motor mount brackets from a C20 will fit the older frames better. The C10 frames are taller than our older truck frames. The '73-'87 C20 frames are closer in height. protrash64 used the C10 brackets when he put the 454 in his Burb. You can check it out in the 'Projects and Builds ' section.

You'll also need to trim the top flange of the frame for the '73-'87 motor mount brackets.

[LostMy65]

Thank you.

[LostMy65]

Found it:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ts#post3955575

Thanks again.

[LostMy65]

From my research it appears that both the 4x4's and 2wd (C20 73-87) use the same newer 'Clamshell' mounts, but just different perches/towers - can anyone verify?

[Captainfab]

Yes that is correct. The motor mounts themselves as well as the 'clamshell' are the same between 4x4 and 2wd's '73 and up, as well as many passenger cars. However there are 2 different heights of the clamshells, but about 90% of them are the same.

Originally Posted by LostMy65

From my research it appears that both the 4x4's and 2wd (C20 73-87) use the same newer 'Clamshell' mounts, but just different perches/towers - can anyone verify?

[LostMy65]

^ Thanks again!

I picked up both side perchs/towers from Pick-N-Pull today.

I got them off a C20 as you suggested.

[LostMy65]

So that the info isn't fragmented....
As Captainfab suggested in another thread;

Originally Posted by Captainfab

...clip.... To use the '86 motor mount brackets, you will need to trim the top flange of the frame a little. This will be necessary if you ever plan on running headers also. Just use the top of the '86 frame as a reference. ...clip...

I will use the 79 frame's top flange as a reference for trimming my frame to fit these newer mounts.

[LostMy65]

I should of took a pic, but there were two sets of holes in the perches/brackets/towers.
There were upper holes with the number 8 next to it, and holes about 3/4" lower that had the number 6 next to them - I bolted the mounts in the holes with 8's next to them.

[LostMy65]

Okay, I spent some time sliding the engine with the mounts and brackets attached into location, and I'm not feeling good about notching the frame. Couldn't the same thing be accomplished with just modifying the brackets? I'd much rather cut and re-weld the brackets than notch my frame.

[LostMy65]

Looking at this pic here, it appears the top flange is a lot smaller than the one on my 3/4 ton 66.
.

.
I'll need to take a pic, but my top flange is the same width as my bottom flange.
This would require me taking almost 1/2 out of the width of my top flange to get these brackets to sit as they do in the above pic.

[LostMy65]

In fact; looking at the pic above, it might make more sense for me to cut about 1/4 to 3/8 out of the upper part of the bracket, re-weld it, and the bolt it to the underside of the top flange.

[Captainfab]

The '67 and earlier frames did have a wider top flange on the frame. Starting in '68 I believe, the top flanges were made narrower to accomodate the big blocks. I wouldn't worry about trimming a little off of the top flange to accomodate those motor mounts. It isn't going to have any adverse effects as long as you make smoothe cuts.....or at least grind the cuts smooth. I usually use a '73 and up frame as a template for trimming the early frames.

[Joe Chasse]

THANKS Captainfab! I bought a set of perches from a newer truck thinking they would work for the 76 350 I'm putting in my 65 C-30. They were too wide. Now I read here that it is ok to trim the top rail on the frame to fit. THAT'S GREAT NEWS, as I had not considered it and the engine/trans are hanging on a chain and need to get on with it. Should be fairly straightforward once I figure out how to figure out how much to trim. I guess good old trial and error will have to do...then mark for bolt holes and mark bolt holes for the trans mount. Looking forward to getting this thing IN.
Thanks again,
Joe

[Dino Driver]

Lostmy65: I bought motor perches that look like that from Early Classic. They were $234 delivered. I had to trim about 3/8" from the side of the top channel. The 67-72 truck frames come with the top rail smaller. When you trim the top channel DO NOT NOTCH. You must make curve cuts otherwise the corners will crack out. I marked where the holes needed to be, measured from the hole to edge of the bracket where it turns down, transfered that measurement onto the rail and put a 2' level for a straight edge and trimmed a stright line. I live in SE Portland, if you want to come by and see how I did it send me a PM and I'll give you my phone number.

Mike

[Joe Chasse]

Thanks Mike. I just now notched only with a 45 degree angle at the ends. Mine actually lined up with the existing holes in the top rail, but need to drill holes in the crossmember (marked with shot of spray paint) I was going to grind that into a nice smooth curve, though I do see what you mean. DAMN. I gotta pull the engine/trans out again to drill those holes in the crossmember anyhow so can get in there with my grinder. I gotta go out and look at this idea of slicing the side off my top rail...

Joe

[Joe Chasse]

Aint that the WAY, though. Are these things EVER "finished"? My notches are cut at 45 degrees at each end. I cut mine with a wheel, then hand filed smooth. Soon as I get my rear trans mount holes marked, I'll pull the engine/trans back out and drill the holes, grind smoooooth, prime and paint before assembly. If I had a welder, I'd put gussets under each end of these...